Looking for very specific advice

[CG]

When I say specific Im looking for part numbers etc ...

I'm going to be doing a thorough tune on my C30 with 402/T400/Dually. I would love to have your advice on which parts to purchase and install. My dream is to do this once and do it right. This truck hasn't been on the road for years and years, but it has been started and moved around the small property where it was stored several times a year.

It needs a water pump and I have been given good advice and part numbers for a new one on another thread.

I'm going to take the radiator out and have it cleaned and tested.

What plugs would you use?

Which plug wires do you like?

What kind of oil? ... Truck has 80K original miles.

I think upgrading to an HEI is a good idea. What you recommend for this upgrade?

What about the carb, go ahead and send it off too?

This thing was a motor home in its old life, do you think even if the trans fluid smells and looks ok I should change it anyway?

Ill be doing a lot of other things with the truck before it hits the road, but I believe I have a decent handle on that. Its been ages since Ive had to give a truck a super good tune. My last three were either done when I got them or so long ago many things have changed in the tune up world. And two were small block 4sp trucks.

Id love to get this thing on the road with a nice flatbed and drive it relatively trouble free for a long time.



Now that I think about it there are a couple other things Im thinking about that may or may not need to be done but considering doing anyway ... thoughts?

The power steering seems to be fine, but I think I may send the pump and the box to the place that has been recommended here on the board many times (I have it written down). Ill probably pick up some new lines while I'm at it.

Lastly Im considering a new master and booster. Again they seem to be working fine ... Is this smart preventative maint, or a waste of money?

As usual I appreciate your thoughts and ideas ...

[jimijam00]

You failed to provide specific details about your engine. Original? Stock? Cam? Heads? Manifold? Carb? Etc....

[CG]

100 percent stock 1971 C30 ex motor home. I dont want to put intake, heads, cam etc ... I want to keep it stock except for moving up to HEI, and well tuned

[special-K]

Stock, right? Taylor makes the best plug wires on the planet. I run AC plugs. Cap and rotor, Standard Blue Streak. Things may have changed, but in my experience the black caps are inferior to the tan or red (or Blue Streak). The carb I'd send out to Carb Doctor(?), or whatever that place is. It's in NY state I believe. They do ethanol friendly carbs. I wouldn't touch the P/S unless the box is sloppy or pump is leaky. New hoses a good idea. If ATF smells or looks burnt you have trans problems. I'd drain, filter, new fluid and pan gasket if fluid checks out. From sitting the seals, front & rear often start leaking. Look for that, especially the front for some reason. A rebuilt GM HEI would be excellent. If the brakes work properly I wouldn't mess with the MC/booster. I'd be more concerned with the brakes at the wheels. I'd give them a good look

[Steeveedee]

I personally would go through the entire brake system and replace all the flex hoses and wheel cylinders. I'd look at both the inside and outside of the steel brake lines and ensure that they are not corroded. No matter whether it runs or not, a vehicle isn't any good if it won't stop properly when the brakes are applied. Tim's got it right with the ignition. Standard Ignition's Blue Streak line of components are the best I've ever run across. If you put in an HEI, that might change. Factory plugs (whatever you end up taking out) should be good enough, but the HEI would change your spark plug choice. I'd personally send the carburetor to a reputable vendor if I didn't want to do it myself, which I usually do (rebuild them myself). If the tires are over 5 YO, I'd toss 'em. As for the trans, if the fluid looks OK, I wouldn't do more than service it.

[CG]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I personally would go through the entire brake system and replace all the flex hoses and wheel cylinders. I'd look at both the inside and outside of the steel brake lines and ensure that they are not corroded. No matter whether it runs or not, a vehicle isn't any good if it won't stop properly when the brakes are applied. Tim's got it right with the ignition. Standard Ignition's Blue Streak line of components are the best I've ever run across. If you put in an HEI, that might change. Factory plugs (whatever you end up taking out) should be good enough, but the HEI would change your spark plug choice. I'd personally send the carburetor to a reputable vendor if I didn't want to do it myself, which I usually do (rebuild them myself). If the tires are over 5 YO, I'd toss 'em. As for the trans, if the fluid looks OK, I wouldn't do more than service it.

Brakes and associated parts are on my list of things to do that I have a handle on. I have all new wheels, new tires are on the list for sure since I have crappy non dually style rollers on there now. Just been forever since Ive done any kind of tune up work, and even longer since Ive done a big block.

[toolboxchev]

Motor Oil


Valvoline VR1

[allchevy58]

On the water pump, I use Stewart Components or AC Delco, tune-up I use AC Delco D308R cap, D426R rotor, and 9288M wire set, Autolite 145 plugs. I converted all my points with Pertronics 1181LS, Summit # PNX-1181LS, I kept the original coils on all, except my 64' I built a 383 for it. I use a good conventional oil Mobil High Mileage 10W30. When I buy a used vehicle, I flush and change antifreeze, new hoses and belts, I stick with Gates or Dayco hoses and belts, change transmission fluid and filter, check brake shoes and pads, bleed brakes til all old brake fluid is out. If there is no problems with Power Steering, I wouldn't change it, just flush out PS fluid. Rockauto.com is a good source for part numbers, Summit Racing is a good source for parts if you don't have anything close. Hope this helps.

[burnin oil]

Taylor's are good wires and so are MSD. Make sure you buy a middle of the road set in 8mm that are low resistance. They will last for years if you keep them off the exhaust. Make sure they are shielded noise reduction style as you can still get the old school solid core that mess with radios and computers. Avoid the cheap HEIs if you make the switch.

I think delcos quality has been slipping the last few years. I bought a 3 bolt Delco starter and the nose was mismachined. You could only start 2 bolts so the new starter had to have the nose swapped with the old. It did last several years on a high compression motor with headers after the initial headache.

[CCCC]

I have a 72 C30 motorhome much like yours - bought it in 1998 in Denver with 28k original miles on it - drove it 600 miles home and then simply checked EVERYTHING for safe and sound and then drove it - still do - and it has required nothing except routine maintenance since bought. It is a SB350 with TH400. Because I later bought another 72 C30 motorhome with a much nicer camper section, I converted the first one to a cab with sleeper and flatbed with gooseneck hitch. The conversion worked well and the truck is fun. These C30s were well-built - I would do the important safety/reliability checks, replace only anything indicated, and use it. Others here have given good advice on components/parts.

[Happy_dan]

A good friend has told me NOT to use the VR1. It is a great oil but made for racing where engines are torn down often. I am not sure myself, but it makes sense to me when he describes that there are no detergents in VR1. It will gunk up at some point.

Just my two cents which is worth less because I am still very much in learning mode for these old trucks. I am old myself, but never had the opportunity to own then until now.

[Getter-Done]

Auto-lite plugs
use a plug wire loom.
Similar to this there are a lot of these available
Link:https://www.holley.com/products/igni...0-%20Non-Brand

Add Lucas oil treatment to the oil you use in your other vehicles

I would go with HEI from Jegs or Summit racing.

Yes send the carb off to be built.









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