Finally My Build is starting but need some advice!

[C10ENVY]

Finally tracked down the truck I plan to proceed with.
I was on the hunt for a 67-68 as I obviously like the front end better than the bull nose hood. But I thought I was stuck looking for a 68 as majority of 67 had a small back window.

Found a truck it was posted as a 67 SWB so i start flipping through all the pics and she obviously needed some love but then i came to rear picture of the truck and it had the big window. I thought oh boy here we go another truck made from multiple trucks. I then asked seller for the VIN plate and build spec sheet in glove box. Doesn't matter too many people but what i found out next had my chin on the floor.

Factory SWB 115 WB 67 with 327, factory air, Power steering, Power Brakes, Custom sport truck option, and the Panoramic Back window option!! Also has the 12 bolt as you can see in the pictures if i get them to load.



Truck is rough but cab is solid, will need a drivers bedside as it is full of bondo and bed floor is bad.

Truck had been a project for the father and son but soon after they started the project the father had a stroke and then a few years later he passed. The son wanted to move forward building the truck In memory of his father and did so until news of 2nd child on the way. My father also had one of these trucks and this has been a dream of mine to build since I lost him 25 years ago. The seller and I came to an agreement and I will be getting the truck next weekend.

Also struck gold on a gentlemen 5.5hours away that has a 2002 Chevy 2500Hd truck with 6.0 LS and 4l80e trans but the torsion bar mounts are rusted out in the frame. I am making the trip to go get the entire truck to drive home as I got the entire truck for less than 1/2 of what i see a pulled LQ4 LS motor posted for.

Here is where I need you guys!

I plan to build the truck as a truck I will drive everyday that weather permits.
Goals are as follows
6.0 will be a 408 stroker with the plans of 500hp/tq to the wheels N/A but it will have boost in the future after truck is done and recoup from inital build. I saw the CPP LS swap kit that had long tube headers, pedestals, mounts with trans crossmember. But again i cant talk to anyone at CPP to get more details on flange thickness of headers etc. Any suggestions on a long tube header that will fit a ls swapped 67 as I may Go with the TinWorks LS swap setup.

I have a spare 67 swb coil spring frame that is unmolested that I got from nothern texas that is super clean. I want to have about a 4/6 drop but done correctly to still be able to plant the power and the truck be nice and nimble. I have tried to call CPP as I like alot of their products but had several questions. I have sat on hold for over an hour at a time to get through to someone and eventually just hang up.
So with the guidance of a gentlemen from the forum he gave me some other known names for suspensions and 1 stop shops to get most of the stuff I will need.

Then i came across Tinworks and holy cow, really impressed with his work. But I do not have the budget for a proper air ride system so i plan to use most of his pieces for the rear other than the bag kit as I will likely just install drop coils at this time. I'm still somewhat confused on what shocks to get if using shock relocation mounts to allow the shocks enough travel to not ride like a covered wagon.

Front I plan to use factory Arms after replacing all the bushings, then someones 2-2.5in drop spindles with hopefully disc brake conversion kits for front and rear. Would love to get all the Willwood pieces but being a truck that will likely see 10k miles a year I dont want to be limited on replacement parts when needed like pads/rotors etc. So I saw the CPP kits but again not being able to actually talk to anyone about the products makes me feel like customer support will be ****ty as well. POL seems to have the same kit as the photos almost even match CPP. Would love to use the Mcgaughys but when i contacted them which was a good feeling....They have supplier issues and likely wont have parts to assemble the kits until after the first of the year....UGH!!! Suggestions? i want a slide on style rotor for front and rear along 13in min for front and 11in minimum for rear. I do plan to run 18in wheel min possibly 20in so clearance will not be an issue.

All input welcomed just the kinda person that wants to set it up correctly the first time and build it to last but it will not be a garage queen and will need to be able to service everything when needed without issues of parts availability. I also dont want a huge over lap in cost so if something would cost 10-15% more now to be at the next level vs a much larger expense to change later, then i rather do it now. Prime example doing coil springs now with possibly converting to air ride system in the future.

Thank you all for your time and help in advance.

[C10ENVY]

finally got pics to load

[geunther]

Factory air, short bed with panoramic...heck of a find.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by geunther

Factory air, short bed with panoramic...heck of a find.

Yep

[C10ENVY]

Well I am super stoked driving 11 hours today to go get the donor truck for motor and trans.

[FRCvette]

Nice find. Good luck with your build.

[Grumpy old man]

Nice options on a 67 , if it had a 12 bolt posi it would be listed on the spid . What color are you going to paint it ?

[C10ENVY]

Still a lot of time to decide on the paint but I have been in love with the color destroyer grey that I had on a scatpack charger. If I do that color the trim will likely all be a satin version of granite crystal of the newer ram trucks with flat black accents. I want the truck to look somewhat mean but having that destroy grey that looks like a flat paint is an awesome color for a truck that is driven a lot for any imperfections that may happen. But yet the 3 coats of clear gives it a shine as well. I will feel super lucky if the 12 bolt has a posi which from what I am ready it very well maybe since the truck has the 327 and custom sport truck codes.

[C10ENVY]

Just saw what you said well hopefully someone added a posi either way I will be converting over to 5x5 anyway and will install one anyway unless the cost is not much more to switch to a 9in. Have t looked that far ahead yet.

[CABLESCUM]

Excellent score!

On the drop, from experience, I’d say 3.5/5 is quick and painless.

I did 2.5 spindles and 1” springs on front with 31s. No rubbing but CLOSE. It’s a BB so I ended up 3.75” down. CPP stuff including tubular arms, stuck disc brakes bolt right up.

In back I did 5” drop springs. More than that on a trailing arm truck and you have to take off the bump stops. CPP stuff again.

THEN I decided to bag it. So I got a “kit”, I wouldn’t recommend that(just me though). I ended up selling most of the kit and buying what I really wanted, and higher quality. TW Step Notch, SS7 Bags, nice dual pumps.

Just keep in mind if you are going to bag it anyways, money spent on a static drop is wasted.

I use a well known supplier of parts that happens to be local to me, and they are VERY cool and knowledgeable guys. They can and will tell you everything you need, static or bagged....Switch Suspension in Mesa AZ

My trucks are in my sig if you want to see pics of what I did.

[BigBird05]

Think about using 73 to 84 front suspension and steering parts since you are replacing everything up front anyway. It might save you money. You need to modify the frame or use an adapter if you are going to add power steering to the 67.

[C10ENVY]

Originally Posted by CABLESCUM

Excellent score!

On the drop, from experience, I’d say 3.5/5 is quick and painless.

I did 2.5 spindles and 1” springs on front with 31s. No rubbing but CLOSE. It’s a BB so I ended up 3.75” down. CPP stuff including tubular arms, stuck disc brakes bolt right up.

In back I did 5” drop springs. More than that on a trailing arm truck and you have to take off the bump stops. CPP stuff again.

THEN I decided to bag it. So I got a “kit”, I wouldn’t recommend that(just me though). I ended up selling most of the kit and buying what I really wanted, and higher quality. TW Step Notch, SS7 Bags, nice dual pumps.

Just keep in mind if you are going to bag it anyways, money spent on a static drop is wasted.

I use a well known supplier of parts that happens to be local to me, and they are VERY cool and knowledgeable guys. They can and will tell you everything you need, static or bagged....Switch Suspension in Mesa AZ

My trucks are in my sig if you want to see pics of what I did.

I will go check them out. Just concerned with the CPP stuff as I said the customer service end seems to blow. Not sure if all the rumors are true but supposedly the springs are not very good and sag quickly. Can you shine any light on that?

[gmc684x4]

You can use 73 up 12 bolt rear with no limit panhard bar

Several places sell 5 bolt axles for the 63 to 69 12 bolt axle

Anouther option is convert a dana 60 to 5 bolt Stacy David did that to project copperhead on his tv show gears

[C10ENVY]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Nice options on a 67 , if it had a 12 bolt posi it would be listed on the spid . What color are you going to paint it ?

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

You can use 73 up 12 bolt rear with no limit panhard bar

Several places sell 5 bolt axles for the 63 to 69 12 bolt axle

Anouther option is convert a dana 60 to 5 bolt Stacy David did that to project copperhead on his tv show gears

I tried to find any info for the 14 bolt that will be in the 2002 had truck I’m bringing home to rob the LS drivetrain from. It’s a beast with a posi but not sure if cost effective to have the tubes shortened. Would be sweet to have that full floating rearend though. I love Dana 60s but from what I found so far just as much to convert over to 9in.

[gmc684x4]

Look at threads in suspension section lots questions how to fix cpp rough rides

My understanding 67 power steering is power assist ram which is different from the 68 72 setup needs the frame heated up and a bump added for the ps box

As for 73 87 setups are not really that much a price difference then say 71 72 front end parts i priced out on rock auto a few weeks ago i did not look at 67 70 parts as my suspension donar is a 72

73 up will have more defelection then the 67 72 setup will have a bit more noise and vibration

One thing to do if keeping original a arms is upgrade the lower ubolts to bigger 73 87 ones

I am going with Ece 3.5 5 drop with no limit panhard bar and shock relocate brackets

[C10ENVY]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

Look at threads in suspension section lots questions how to fix cpp rough rides

My understanding 67 power steering is power assist ram which is different from the 68 72 setup needs the frame heated up and a bump added for the ps box

As for 73 87 setups are not really that much a price difference then say 71 72 front end parts i priced out on rock auto a few weeks ago i did not look at 67 70 parts as my suspension donar is a 72

73 up will have more defelection then the 67 72 setup will have a bit more noise and vibration

One thing to do if keeping original a arms is upgrade the lower ubolts to bigger 73 87 ones

I am going with Ece 3.5 5 drop with no limit panhard bar and shock relocate brackets

thought ECE is closed? Sold to Holley

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

My understanding 67 power steering is power assist ram which is different from the 68 72 setup needs the frame heated up and a bump added for the ps box

You would be correct on the '67 power steering being power assist ram only. My all original '68 CST also has the power assist ram power steering so they must have produced both styles in '68..... Probably early and late production.

LockDoc

[LS short box]

My .02. Convert the rear to 4.75 using Moser 30 spline axles. Same with the front 4.75".
Eaton Tru-Trac? If this doesn't work for future boost plans you can sell the rear end and upgrade as needed.

[gmc684x4]

Why car bolt pattern ?

[rechinca]

CPP takes some time on the phone, but with COVID who isn’t these days? I just put it on speaker and kept working until they picked up. Guy said only a couple guys answering phones. I picked up the modular 2 1/2 spindles and 1” drop springs for the front. Haven’t got to the rear yet. VERY happy with quality of parts so far putting it together. Once they answer the phone their service is great and the guy I talked to actually asked quality questions about my build and wanted to talk about it. Maybe that’s why they take longer to answer.

[rockyrivermark]

That’s a real cool truck. Here’s the deal. These trucks are real easy to work on and there is a ton of aftermarket parts available.
I tell people give me a 1/2” and 9/16” and I can strip this truck to the frame.
This forum is amazing with some crazy intelligent people to offer help.
Get after it and have fun
RRM

[C10ENVY]

Just an update I got the donor truck home and the motor got stronger and stronger as I burned the rotten gas out of it lol. Trans shifted great. Both will be gone through extensively to be ready for boost.

I do have a couple questions for you AC experts with our trucks. What is the ideal AC compressor to run with Vintage air and what location? Keep in mind i plan to run hooker blackheart turbo manifold on passenger side? Any suggestions on the ideal setup to keep everything tucked in tight and have room for the Turbo and piping that will fit?

thanks

[gmc684x4]

You can ask in the ls section it is under engines

[clay68c10]

Look into the hooker LS swap towers too. I’m using them and I really like the fit and placement of the engine.