Engine break in oil

[03BlkZ]

Hey gents I recently had my 350 overhauled since my truck is in restoration and now I am getting close to where I want to fire the engine and do the break in. What oil is recommended. This is a flat tappet engine so I know a high Zinc oil is required. Should I just use a standard conventional oil and an additive or should I buy something like the Comp Cams Break in oil?

[kwmech]

Personally I use regular oil with a Lucas additive

[MJN]

AMSOIL Break-In Oil
https://www.amsoil.com/p/break-in-oil-sae-30--brk/

Then run AMSOIL Z-Rod after break-in.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-3...motor-oil-zrt/

I use both of these and haven't had a single issue.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by kwmech

personally i use regular oil with a lucas additive

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ditto^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Willys_MB]

It's all personal preference. The cheaper route and the route I took was to add the Lucas Oil Products zinc additive. I have had no problems with 2-3k miles on the new build. Some will chime in and say to buy pre-mixed or more expensive brands. Just do whatever you're comfortable with. In the end, I guess it doesn't hurt to spend a little extra money on oil since you probably don't want to pay to have the work done again.

[03BlkZ]

Awesome! Thanks!

[03BlkZ]

Awesome thanks!

[jimijam00]

What did the engine builder recommend? Didn't he/she fill it with break in oil before handing it over to you?

[tinman_local2]

It was recommended to me by the machine shop to use Rotella T 10w30. It has a high content of zinc and other good minerals. He also gave me a bottle of zinc additive to add to the Rotella. You can get the Rotella at tractor supply.

[custom10nut]

I use straight 30 at as a break in oil. I go through the cycle of initial break in, with varying rpms, until the the the 500 mile mark, then after that I go with full synthetic. I never had any issues

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

What did the engine builder recommend? Didn't he/she fill it with break in oil before handing it over to you?

He just told.me to make sure I use an oil with Zinc to prolong the life of the cam.

[mr.mud1]

just my 2 cents worth,everybody is going to have their favourite and there's nothing wrong with that.as long as you have some motor oil with zinc,several companies sell the old formula motor oil with zinc or just the additive,you'll be fine.follow what the engine builder told you,then if there is trouble,they can't blame you for deviating from what they instructed.my local machine shop sells the correct beak-in oil,i think it's Gibbs and maybe Lucas and they all do i'm sure.i use GM E.O.S in all my fresh engines and a little with every oil change,even in our new cars.my machine shop advised that E.O.S helps the timing chains and valve trains in the newer engines,so i use it in there too.i don't think anybody mentioned it but if i was starting that engine for the first time,i'd be priming it before starting it up,then you'll have oil pressure right away,nothing will start dry.just a side note,i went back and checked,GM says their E.O.S is not an additive but an assembly lube?there's talk about it not being made anymore,or a new supplier for GM?whatever.i use it,have for a long,long time.if it gets hard to find,i'll have to do something else but as i said,everybody has their own routine,get some zinc in those fresh engines,lots of assembly lube as it goes together,it's all going to be fine. happy new year to you all.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

just my 2 cents worth,everybody is going to have their favourite and there's nothing wrong with that.as long as you have some motor oil with zinc,several companies sell the old formula motor oil with zinc or just the additive,you'll be fine.follow what the engine builder told you,then if there is trouble,they can't blame you for deviating from what they instructed.my local machine shop sells the correct beak-in oil,i think it's Gibbs and maybe Lucas and they all do i'm sure.i use GM E.O.S in all my fresh engines and a little with every oil change,even in our new cars.my machine shop advised that E.O.S helps the timing chains and valve trains in the newer engines,so i use it in there too.i don't think anybody mentioned it but if i was starting that engine for the first time,i'd be priming it before starting it up,then you'll have oil pressure right away,nothing will start dry.just a side note,i went back and checked,GM says their E.O.S is not an additive but an assembly lube?there's talk about it not being made anymore,or a new supplier for GM?whatever.i use it,have for a long,long time.if it gets hard to find,i'll have to do something else but as i said,everybody has their own routine,get some zinc in those fresh engines,lots of assembly lube as it goes together,it's all going to be fine. happy new year to you all.

Thanks! I was looking at the Gibbs oil and will probably go that route. I do plan to.prime the oil system just before the first start since it will take a little time for the oil to pass into all the areas needed.

[mr.mud1]

sounds like a plan.

[AussieinNC]

A true break in procedure requires the engine to be under load with various cycles of driving etc....this is to ensure cylinder pressures are sufficient to ensure a good ring to bore seal....

If you just want to ensure the engine fires ok and has no noises or leaks, a simple run in the chassis or a run stand will work but it should not be deemed a break in.....

Ensure the cooling system is full and all air purged out of the system.

The choice of oil is open just ensure it has sufficient Zinc in it and you dont allow the engine to idle for extended periods.

Start up, immediately up to 2000 rpm for three minutes then cycle between high idle and 3500 rpm...do not allow the engine to idle...

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

A true break in procedure requires the engine to be under load with various cycles of driving etc....this is to ensure cylinder pressures are sufficient to ensure a good ring to bore seal....

If you just want to ensure the engine fires ok and has no noises or leaks, a simple run in the chassis or a run stand will work but it should not be deemed a break in.....

Ensure the cooling system is full and all air purged out of the system.

The choice of oil is open just ensure it has sufficient Zinc in it and you dont allow the engine to idle for extended periods.

Start up, immediately up to 2000 rpm for three minutes then cycle between high idle and 3500 rpm...do not allow the engine to idle...

Thanks! I ended up buying the Gibbs Driven 5w-30 break in oil. I plan to do the initial startup break in and the a few hundred miles of driving then change the oil to Driven 10w-30. Thanks for the advise everyone.

[3767]

All the above work, and as u can see there is more than 1 way to do this. If u go the premix Rt then remember to change it out after 500 miles. Break n oil doesn’t have the detergents that normal oil has to keep the motor clean. Amsoil as men mentioned is some really good stuff. Lucas and Schaffer are good as well. Beyond break n, u might want to consider using a 5w-30 weight oil. Cuts down the drag vs heavier weight oils . Best of luck on the last of your build and happy new yr.