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02-26-2021, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 327
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Replacing front suspension parts
Im getting ready to order ball joints, tie rods....etc to change out all of the old front end stuff on my 67 C10. I've never done any front end work, will there be any special tools I need to complete this job besides the everyday sockets, wrenches...etc? Also, any tips for things that might be difficult to change out? Thanks.
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02-26-2021, 03:42 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,982
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
You will need a pickle fork to detach the tie rods and ball joints. The lower ball joint is pressed into the control arm, so it requires a press and the appropriate tools for that (either a press or a ball joint c-clamp style service kit). My local Les Schwab wanted $100 to press out my old ball joints and press in the new, so I bought a press at Harbor Freight and did it myself. I have used that press for dozens of other things since I got it. If you are replacing your control arm bushings, you will need some big wrenches. I bought a 3/4" drive socket set from Home Depot for this purpose.
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02-26-2021, 03:48 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
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02-26-2021, 04:08 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Elkhart, Texas
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
Quote:
Not a good idea, bringing your parts to a shop.. Would you bring steak and veggies to a restaurant and ask them to cook it up for you?? If you're unable to do the work yourself, take the truck to a shop and let them install their parts.. Doing so will allow them to offer a "full coverage" warranty on the work... |
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02-26-2021, 07:43 PM | #5 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
Quote:
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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02-28-2021, 11:05 PM | #6 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Smithton, Mo.
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
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02-26-2021, 03:49 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsfield, PA
Posts: 34
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
quick list.....
Ball joint press- press LBJ in/out of control arm Pickle fork - separate bj and tie rods Jack stands BFH Floor jack - support LCA when separating spindle from BJ's if not using an internal spring compressor
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72 K20 - quote upon getting it home "What did you buy it for if the brakes don't work" 98 Z71, 96 Tacoma + more toys than I can remember |
02-26-2021, 08:11 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St Peters, MO
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
I agree with letting the shop buy the parts, however you can ask what brand they will use and get an estimate to make sure they're not marking up the parts too much. I prefer Moog parts on the steering, but there may be other good names to use as well. RockAuto can give you a quick idea on the parts costs, however you may need to include a 10-20% markup that the local suppliers may charge. RockAuto carries Moog, ACDelco and a few others.
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1967 C20, 350 SBC w/Comp roller cam, 700R4 w/3.42 posi, PS, 4-wheel PDB, Old Air AC & GM Tilt column. |
02-26-2021, 11:32 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Carlos MN
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
So my.02.
If you are replacing the basics like tie rod ends a couple of sharp hits with a mechanics hammer should drop them out. Same with the ball joints from the control arms. Put a chain of some type around spring so it doesn't get away from you. Oreilly's has some no cost rental tools for installing ball joints. Along with a-arm bushing install tools. |
02-27-2021, 12:19 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 493
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
Go with Moog parts if trying to keep things closer to stock. I'm very happy with the quality and performance. I got all 4 coil springs, upper and lower ball joints from Moog.
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02-27-2021, 12:22 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ark City, Kansas
Posts: 3,405
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
I used to sell auto parts.
Had 2-3 shops, only used Moog, period, nothing else. Had many shops that ALWAYS bought the cheapest stuff, always! Buyer beware, a serious conversation with the shop is in line, however you get the job done! |
02-27-2021, 11:53 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Beebe, AR
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
Wish you were closer, I’d let you borrow some tools. That usually comes with a hand from me as well. ��
I did this on my 67 last year and replaced all wear parts. Ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, cross shafts/bushings and springs. Mine took me a good while because I was stripping and refinishing everything at the same time. If you are not doing all that a couple hands, tools, and a weekend of time should knocking out.
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1967 C10 1980 Jeep CJ5 2020 Toyota 4Runner 2024 Toyota Tundra |
02-27-2021, 03:18 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 259
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Re: Replacing front suspension parts
I would recommend Moog parts. A little more expensive, but you get what you pay for. I did mine myself with a 12 ton shop press ($150). I already had all the other tools. As stated,a pickle fork and a pitman arm remover. As said, you can rent those for free from parts stores. One of the best purchases I ever made was a pickle fork that went into a air chisel. Just place it and hit trigger and bam, separated. Don't forget about springs being under pressure when you remove everything. When you are putting back together place spring in and simply Jack lower a arm up into place,making sure spring doesn't move out of place. There are indents in a arm where the end of the spring sits. If you do any kind of mechanical work you will find that you will use the press for other things down the road. Good luck.
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