To Do It or Not To Do It? Front end rebuild

[thedudeabides86]

Hi there. I'm debating on whether I should attack this job myself, or pay to have it done right.

I need new control arms, tie rods, and whatever else I should do when I'm in there to get a good alignment as I got new tires put on last fall as I was told everything was worn enough that a proper alignment couldn't be done.

So, what do you do? I've never done this part of the truck myself and I'm not sure what vendor to buy parts from or whether I should just cough up the Benjamin's and pay someone to do it.

I was told Moog parts are really good and a local garage quoted me those parts with a complete redo for about $2,000.

With all the great members out here, I ask of you, How'd you go about it? Do it yourself or pay for it to just be done? I love this board as it helped me, a guy who had no idea how to swap a motor in my truck, to ACTUALLY swap a motor in my truck! You all are an AMAZING resource for problem solving and parts and I can't thank everyone enough.

[68Gold/white]

Moog parts ARE the only parts to use.
If you tackle it your self, any questions can be answered here.............

[MARKDTN]

I would do it myself. Not that hard. Pickle fork tool is readily available and inexpensive. The rest is basic hand tools that you probably already have. Align it the best you can using the old shims and drive immediately to get it aligned. If you have some old front tires to get it there that helps too. MOOG is good stuff, I would not use anything else.

[68 P.O.S.]

Do it yourself, you'll gain some experience, save some money, and maybe even get some new tools...for less than the shop will charge. It's actually not difficult at all.

[BigBird05]

As said it is not at all hard, but could be dangerous for a novice. The coil spring is under a lot of pressure. Watch a lot of videos before you start.

[57larry]

read up on how to do it, then do it! nothing better than working on your own stuff. good luck

[thedudeabides86]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Obviously tires will have to come off, but will the grill and front bumper need to be removed at all? I imagine not, but if it's easier, then maybe?

Here's where I plan to buy the parts. I suppose I should add the idler arm and pitman arm?

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...20_pickup_1972

I don't see that the control arms are included in this kit, but when I search by my vehicle type, this is the only part I see for control arm parts.

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k6147

I'll do some more research into what I'll actually be replacing and basically replace everything as long as the wife doesn't kill me?

Sabin

[saxart]

Originally Posted by thedudeabides86

Here's where I plan to buy the parts.
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...20_pickup_1972
Sabin

Don't buy your parts from that site. Do what Grumpy Old Man says......They are a lot cheaper on Rockauto.com

[jimijam00]

DIY, then pay the alignment shop for a good alignment, not one of the "set the toe and go" jobs. Buy lots of beer with what is left over out of that $2K. Finding someone to do the job that is competent AND will take the time to do the job right is not easy as it was 20 years ago.

[BigBird05]

You don't need to replace the control arms unless you want to lower the front of the truck. You will (should) replace the bushings.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

You don't need to replace the control arms unless you want to lower the front of the truck. You will (should) replace the bushings.

Control arm bushings. Got it. I found a good video from Brother's Truck I'll have to watch when the kids go to bed so I can actually hear it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dTIQ7mfWlg

[Grumpy old man]

Buy Moog parts from rockauto and use Dorman 13503 lower U bolts

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...kit/mtm0/13503

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Buy Moog parts from rockauto and use Dorman 13503 lower U bolts

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...kit/mtm0/13503

Do this to get the parts, it is exactly what I did, plus I upgraded to a cpp sway bar (upgraded, meaning it was added as I had no sway bar).

I had the parts in my garage for a few weeks, doing all the research, do it myself, drive up to my brothers and doing it in his shop, or have it done.

1. Doing it myself - I didn't want to deal with the rivets nor did I want to buy anything to deal with them.
2. Doing it my brothers - I was 99% sure this would work out okay but if anything went wrong I'd be ~300 miles away from home waiting to sort out with whatever went wrong.
3. Having it done - this is what I did and the shop had my truck from a Wednesday morning drop off and I didn't get it back until the following Tuesday.

Also, while I was at it - I had the front two flex brake lines and the rear flex line replaced, then the whole brake system flushed and checked out. The shop charge was at $1,500. I want to say the parts were 500~600 dollars.

Now, if I needed to do any frontend work on my truck - I could now do it. Though I doubt I need to worry about it.

Lastly, this complete frontend change (minus the coil springs) was the best damn thing I have done to the truck. I have had a few people drive it (and of course the shop) they can't believe it is a 1972 truck it drives so well

[67C10Step]

If you are going all the way and taking the lower control arm off to do the bushings and cross shaft then definitely do the u bolt upgrade Grumpy referred to. Not that difficult and any added safety is just a bonus.

Overall the job is not technically difficult but take your time. I did my first front end rebuild when I was about 17 (1986) but under the watchful eye of my grandfather and uncle. Funny thing, I used the same pickle fork to tear down the front end on my 67 last fall.

Now onto my MOOG rant. Here is a photo of the two outer tie rod boots I installed last September. Zero miles on the truck since installation and stored inside since then. Waiting on a response from MOOG right now.

[Pro299]

All good advice, but . . .

This is not a basic hand tools job. To change the ball joints you'll need to buy or rent the proper tool kit. As mentioned, if you've never dealt with spring removal or install be very careful.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend a novice tackle that part alone. Pittman arm will require a puller which can also be rented. Getting the shafts off the arms and back on again can be a bear, especially the lower. It will take a large socket set to do. Again, loaners or rentals may be available.

Not trying to discourage you, especially if you're comfortable wrenching but just haven't done this particular job. If so, go for it. If not, I'd recommend lots of study and how-to vids, especially those springs. Be safe. And of course, if you have questions once you get into the job, this is a good place to get help.

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by Pro299

you'll need to buy or rent the proper tool kit

OReilly's Auto Parts has these tools in their free loaner program. CC deposit and no charge when you return them, so that's like free. Autozone and others may do the same.

[thedudeabides86]

Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it. This isn't my daily driver so I'm not really worried about down time. I swapped the engine from a bad 305 to a strong 350 a few years ago and it took about 6 months and I had no idea how to do it. Everything I learned to accomplish it, I got from this forum board, family, and friends. I'm hoping that I can get it done faster than the engine swap obviously and I just want to be safe about it and do it right. 68 P.O.S says install a sway bar while I tackle this. Do I not have sway bars? What do they do? The more I watch videos and read about it, the more I figure I just need to replace tie rods ends and balls joints? I did have it up on jack stands a few months ago and there's wobble back and forth and top to bottom when I grab the tire. I do plan on sweet talking my father in law to helping me out and I'd like to be able to get it done in a weekend so I don't miss making it to certain car shows. That being said, the next 3 weekends are planned for small trips and such so it'll be a while before I tackle it. I'm just doing ground work, I guess. Is there anyone on the forum board that's nearby the NW metro of Minneapolis that will supervise for a case of beer and a stiff handshake?

[BigBird05]

I don't mind answering any questions that you might have as you work your way thru the project. You can literally text me right in the middle of working on it. Pm me for my phone # and I can give you my automotive back ground.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

I don't mind answering any questions that you might have as you work your way thru the project. You can literally text me right in the middle of working on it. Pm me for my phone # and I can give you my automotive back ground.

Cool. Thank you. That will be really helpful.

Sabin

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by thedudeabides86

68 P.O.S says install a sway bar while I tackle this. Do I not have sway bars? What do they do?

Yes! You should definitely look at adding a sway bar while you're messing with the whole front end, if you don't already have one. You're gonna have to look at your SPID or under your front end to see if you have one because they were only an option back then, not standard equipment. What the bar does is improve handling. It keeps the front end flat during turns and what not, eliminating body roll. Lots of aftermarket companies sell the sway bars or you can go junkyard hunting. Here's a good thread on installing one: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=72338

[Happy_dan]

Do it! There is a great amount of help here. The only thing I have to say again is be very careful with springs. Wire them to something in case they let go.

[68 P.O.S.]

Install a sway bar while you're doing all of that

[Reddeye]

I actually just finished doing this same thing last weekend on my '72 C20. I'm handy but not a mechanic by any means. A buddy and I did the entire thing ourselves - front springs, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and sway bar bushings. We also removed all the control arms since I had to drill out the rivets to remove the upper balls joints and to get the lower ball joints in. The most trouble we had was getting the spring on the passenger side to seat properly on both the upper and lower control arm seats, but the driver side went in with zero trouble. Great learning experience. All Moog parts except for the sway bar bushings, which were Energy Suspension polyurethane.

[cj847]

I'm with pro 299. Have someone else do it.

Unless:
-You really want to learn it.
-You own a cut off wheel, a BFH, and an air chisel, .
-You have another vehicle to drive while working on it (keep in mind you may get mad and quit working on it for a few days - ask me how I know).

These are heavy, rusty, gunk coated parts and is a PITA project.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by cj847

I'm with pro 299. Have someone else do it.

Unless:
-You really want to learn it.
-You own a cut off wheel, a BFH, and an air chisel, .
-You have another vehicle to drive while working on it (keep in mind you may get mad and quit working on it for a few days - ask me how I know).

These are heavy, rusty, gunk coated parts and is a PITA project.

This is the reason you do it yourself , To get rid of the rusty , gunk coated parts and Know one of the most important systems in your truck is done right using the right parts .