Time for a Canadian build thread

[static80]

Hello,

Been working on a 65 C10 for a year and a half now. It's pretty tough to find rust free stuff locally so I've been in sheet metal purgatory for the last year. I'm a metal fabricator and can get a bit carried away. I'd like to find a fleet side box instead of the step side.

Stats so far are:

65 SWB stepside
C notch
Z notch
LM7 from a 99 pickup
T-56 from a 96 F body
4 Link rear
Shaved horse collar cross member
Shaved firewall
pancaked K member
Airbags

All that's left is everything else....

Here's a youtube link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjO9RNF1j_o

and a couple pics









I also have a 67 C10 built by my father in law and his brother. 4 inch roof chop, 454 and a 9 inch

[static80]

I'm not sure why the photos aren't showing. it worked in the intro forum. I'll try to figure it out

[static80]

I think I've figured it out

[static80]

Well I'm still working on making google photo images work but here's one from the Z notch

[The Rocknrod]

I can't see the pics.

[SkinnyG]

Looks like you're trying to link to an image from your own google account?

You should be able to upload pics if you use the "advanced mode" in your reply. Below the text area there is a spot to upload.

I host my images on my own website, which is easier in a way.

[static80]

Little bit of progress in the last few days

Cut the top of the horse collar cross member for driveshaft clearance. Still need to get a driveshaft made but I'm thinking I should make some custom engine mounts and move the engine back as far as I can.

And started looking at the steering. The pitman arm is too close to the lower A arm and the front bolt of the steering box doesn't have anywhere to go because of the Z notch. And of course the steering shaft wants to go through the upper A arm. Going to be a bit of head scratching going on here. I could ad a tab for the front bolt on the steering box but I don't actually have the rad I'm going to use so I'm not sure if there is going to be radiator/steering box interference.

[SkinnyG]

You could notch the a-arm to clear the pitman.

You could raise the box and idler to match the pancake.

I'd like a better view of the pitman-frame-arm space.

[static80]

I hadn't thought about notching the A arm. Thanks for that Idea. I could move the Steering box up, and of course could notch the frame for clearance.

I'm very tempted to switch to a power steering box and I'm not sure how that will change the geometry. The LM7 has a power steering pump already, I assume it's metric so could probably mate that to a 80's truck box fairly easily.

Of course the tie rod end angle is terrible when the truck it at full drop. Raising the steering box will help that. Has anyone gone with a larger tie rod end and reamed the steering arms so the tie rod end can be installed on the underside of the steering arm?

Or maybe I should just bite the bullet and pull the rack out of my 96 camaro parts car.... I feel like that could turn into another can of worms but would it be worth it?

Also fixed a thin spot on the air duct for the footwell while contemplating everything else.

[static80]

Working on engine mounts today

[static80]

I got some cheep e-bay headers to play with. For the price I'm pretty satisfied. The collector flange location ended up perfect for what I need. Only thing I'm not excited about is the first tube on the passenger side sticks out almost an inch further from the engine than on the drivers side. I might see if I can cut a chunk out and massage it into place and reweld it.

[Paul Y]

There is a lot of work there!

Please continue.

P.

[vet57air]

Keep up the good work. Don't get discouraged. Will see you cruising the island next summer

[static80]

Well I figured I'd do an experiment and find out what would happen if I brought a bottle of rum to a buddies aluminum shop on a Friday night. Turns out a bunch of talented people showed up and with lots of good natured heckling about who was the best welder we ended up with 2 empty bottles of rum and an awesome fuel tank. There were 4 of us cutting and everyone but me took a turn welding and it seemed to go together effortlessly.

I also ground out the welds on the header tube that was close to the frame and pushed it further into the flange so I have good clearance on the frame now.

[jayoldschool]

You must letter that gas tank "The Rum Tank"

[The Rocknrod]

Your just having all kinds of fun with that unit.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by static80

Hello,

Been working on a 65 C10 for a year and a half now. It's pretty tough to find rust free stuff locally so I've been in sheet metal purgatory for the last year. I'm a metal fabricator and can get a bit carried away. I'd like to find a fleet side box instead of the step side.

Stats so far are:

65 SWB stepside
C notch
Z notch
LM7 from a 99 pickup
T-56 from a 96 F body
4 Link rear
Shaved horse collar cross member
Shaved firewall
pancaked K member
Airbags

All that's left is everything else....

Here's a youtube link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjO9RNF1j_o

and a couple pics









I also have a 67 C10 built by my father in law and his brother. 4 inch roof chop, 454 and a 9 inch

A frame 'Z' AND pancaked x-member? What method did you use for the frame 'Z' (straight-up cut or angled cut)?

[static80]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A frame 'Z' AND pancaked x-member? What method did you use for the frame 'Z' (straight-up cut or angled cut)?

Sorry for the late reply. Anyway, it was an angled cut moving the frame 1' forward and 3 inches up.

Just finished up a work project that demanded all of my attention for the last 6 weeks.

A buddy managed to find me a descent fleet-side box to work with.

[static80]

So after some introspective soul searching this nice 56 year old fleetside longbox has decided that it actually identifies as a shortbox. So the surgeries start.

And a question. Pretty much all the longbox to shortbox conversions I've seen people take out a section of the box side where it's straight and then buttweld the ends back on. My question is why don't people split the end pieces from the front and back and then cut the box side down and redo the fold where the front and back pieces attach? That would mean a lot less welding and potential for warping in my mind. I was imagining tracing the rear corner onto some 1/4 plate and making a buck that I could tack onto the bedside to hold the shape while I tapped the folded part over. Has anyone tried this? Is it too hard to gather the extra material without distorting the box side?

[short&wide65]

Awesome build! Can't wait to see more.

[The Rocknrod]

I dont know, I think this guy did that - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...0&postcount=39

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I dont know, I think this guy did that - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...0&postcount=39

It's a little more work but by doing them this way it's easier to keep the patina paint as well. I think most do it the other way because they're not comfortable w/the tipping process.

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I dont know, I think this guy did that - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...0&postcount=39

I actually did the butt-weld method on mine. I considered the method of tipping new flanges but like Scoti said I wasn’t really confident in my skills with the hammer and dolly. I’d love to see somebody try it and take lots of photos of the process though.

[static80]

Well I started cutting the longbed apart. Carefully dissecting with the hopes of putting it back together something like stock. I haven't gotten to tipping the new flanges yet. I'm going to bring the rear passenger corner to work tomorrow to trace for a buck. Anyway, here's some progress pics from the weekend. I couldn't hep myself and I had to hang the panels just for fun.

[static80]

Playing