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03-20-2022, 08:41 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Meadville, Pa
Posts: 11
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'66 C20 control arm questions
Hi all. I decided to rebuild my control arms and ran into a couple snags.
1) one of the upper arm mount studs snapped. Any resource for a replacement? Looks like a wheel stud. 2) one coil spring looks like it has Peyronie's disease. I wasn't planning on replacing the coils, I like the stance as is. Does it need to be swapped out? This wasn't in the budget. 3) the new lower control arm shaft I received is just a cylinder with no bolt holes like the original one. Are they interchangeable if I get ubolts? Or, can I just use the threaded ends if they look the same, nothing wrong with the rest of it. After freight $$ to send back the wrong shafts and get new ones it's hardly worth it. Thanks |
03-20-2022, 10:23 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 264
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
3. If the end caps (bushings) are the same size, you can just replace them and reuse your old shafts. Just make sure the shafts are not bent. There is a specific procedure to install the bushings to get them equal and centered in the control arm. Clean everything well and lubricate. Alternate sides and count turns installing bushings to keep them equal, but if you encounter extreme resistance to the bushings threading in and fully seating, the shaft may be bent. You can buy the bushings by themselves if your shafts are good.
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03-20-2022, 11:39 AM | #3 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Meadville, Pa
Posts: 11
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
Quote:
I have one upper all cleaned, painted and assembled. |
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03-20-2022, 04:49 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 264
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
Yes, that sounds right on the torque spec. Once they bottom, you'll know.
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03-21-2022, 12:22 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Meadville, Pa
Posts: 11
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
well they're not bent but end is shot on the top one pictured.
Dang, these are not cheap. |
03-24-2022, 11:38 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: China Spring, TX
Posts: 7,280
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
Wow your right. I just did a search myself.
__________________
Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats? |
03-27-2022, 10:02 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: China Spring, TX
Posts: 7,280
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
Nice truck PJ66C20.
__________________
Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats? |
03-31-2022, 12:22 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Meadville, Pa
Posts: 11
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Re: '66 C20 control arm questions
I think one lower control arm is too tight. One side I torqued to 100 ftlbs and it would move by hand and stay in place if you let it go. The other one (which had all new shaft/bushings) was so tight even before the torque wrench clicked at 100, that I could not move it at all by hand. I had to use the jack to get it to move up and a hammer to move it down.
I drove it a little and it acts like there is little suspension, kinda bouncy, like just the tires are the only spring. The shocks are fine. I'm guessing the one arm is too tight? I was going to loosen it but how should I approach retorquing it? Thanks. |
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