47-55.1 Steering column replacement advice

[vintovka]

Currently attempting to rebuild my worn out 78 chevy van steering column in my lifted 54. Its so bad the engine actually stalls if the wheel is lifted up!!!! Go figure that one.

Its got a 700-r4 tranny. If it fails any recommendations on a new one with Gm features like key, correct gear indicator, turn signals, horn, hazards and the like. There are so many out there its confusing. Without removing the column how do i tell what length it actually is.

[dsraven]

stick a length of mechanics tie wire or concrete guys tie wire through the little space next to the column and the floor. tape it or bend it or whatever at the bottom of the column shaft then do the same at the top. pull it out and measure it. contact a supplier and see how they do the dimensions, shaft length ot what.

[dsraven]

it isnt that tough to rebuild an old column but you may need to improvise a few tools for the tilt pivoy pin removal etc. otherwise its just bearings and probably the wiring inside. if it is really loose it could just be the bolts have backed off and need tighteneing/loctite and fix whatever is shorted out. when done I recommend a handle bolted to the dash or whatever so you don't use the column as a grab handle, thats usually what does them in.

[vintovka]

Kinda torn between rebuilding or new at this point. Gonna measure it and decide. I actually have hated the old column for decades so it will be a toss up. Thinking just now of selling the 78 GM Van column after its been rebuilt as have seen want ads for them. Any thoughts on new column brands maybe "demotor"???

I measured it and it is roughly 32" from bottom end of column to the top where the wheel attaches.

[dsraven]

if you use the steering wheel as a hand grip to pull yourself upinto the cab I would go with a non tilt column, if aftermarket, because a lot of the aftermarket tilt mechanisms are not meant to have strain like that and they will likely fail.
the gm columns would loosen up the bolts holding that area tight but a lot of the time some loctite and a retorque is all it needs for some more life. I have done a few of those over the years and after watching the owner enter the truck I could see how it happened. a retrorque and a handle placed somewhere so you stop using the wheel as an entry aide may save you some cashola. it doesn't cost you anything to take it apart and see what you have. take pics as you go. you can fix the internal wiring short at the same time, maybe no new parts needed, just some wiring repair and shrink tube. use a wire to pull the old harness out of the column and then it can be used to pull the wires back in again.

[dsraven]

what do you dislike about the old column? length, wheel size, not enough tilt, looks? what would a new column do differently than the old one? can you imagne a new column lasting as long as the old one has, given same scenarios?

[vintovka]

The steering columns was shot before i got it. Former owner was like 350# plus. The column and wheel were used out of necessity and degraded since. Due to the 4" lift and old age getting in and out is was difficult if not outright dangerous. I added marine stainless grab handles to both sides, interior and exterior as shown in pics below. They have saved myself, wife and many others although they look funny. Saved my butt just last week when she quit and i couldn't deploy the power running boards.

Back to the column i did my best to rebuild it. All new top and bottom bearings, internals, etc. I pulled each one of the main bolts, cleaned them and holes then red Loctite them in after tightening the hell out of them. Still wobbles. Would love to keep it but think there is something unseen broken in the plastic u joint. I inspected it and could see nothing wrong. See pics.

Am looking at a new demotor brand GM style automatic tilt column with key

[gsinon]

I would very strongly recommend using either a Flaming River or Ididit column for your replacement column.

Are they more expensive then the cheap Chinese made ones found all over the interwebs for sale? Yes! But those cheap ones use plastic internals and gears that Will fail. I had a friend buy a cheap one for his 50 Chevy, going around a corner the steering gear in the column failed and he lost all steering! Lucky he was going slow enough he didn't;t crash, but that could have been really bad.

To me a steering column is a safety item and we should not be shopping price, but rather buying quality.

Just my opinion.

[Accelo]

This is a recent post from another member:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=836825

No replies to his post. Just highlights the China quality issues. His column is less than one year old. Likely comes with an arbitration disclosure. LOL.

Good advice to stay with Gsinon's recommendations. Only hurts once that way.
Cheers

[vintovka]

I messed with it again. Its like the main shaft cannot be pulled into full contact with the bearings. It was suggested i try shim washers so i machined some up on the lathe and still no good. As said earlier i have a guy with an excellent rep in the wings to fix other stuff. With all the bad reports on replacements i may have him give it a try.

[mr48chev]

The problem is is that isn't the 75/81 GM Van column that everyone wants, it is the later Key switch van column. The loose column is moving the switch rod and triggering the switch that is down on the side of the column. 75/81 vans still had the ignition switch in the dash and that is what makes those years of van columns desirable for older trucks. No ugly key switch, no ugly dimmer switch on the column and very clean lines.

This is a 75/81 Van ignition switch. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=520338

This is an ebay link to a 73/80 tilt https://www.ebay.com/itm/30442935724...0AAOSwsJJiTNus

I'm thinking your column must be 82 and up. You could go up a few more years and get a column with the proper shift quadrant already on it plus your key on the column.

This is a link to an 89 van column on Ebay and they are kind of bulky ugly and cluttered in comparison to a 79 column. https://www.ebay.com/itm/17531769093...0AAOSwDEtiqIwJ

Here's a 2012 thread covering a 78 Tilt column rework. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=520338


I've tightened up an untold number (or same one several times) of GM tilt columns that my wife messed up by pulling herself forward so she could reach the ignition switch. That was in cars and mostly Cadillacs. I never had to replace anything but even locktite on the screws doesn't keep her from tearing them up. Her VW doesn't have a tilt so she doesn't screw it up.

Flaming river have factory Saginaw Tilt internal parts in their columns. They both have done that since the get go as they are a good design and they build their columns around them.

[vintovka]

Thanks to the info. Much Appreciated!! Its an 84-87 but doubting it may be a van as it is about 32-33" long. Still leaning toward having it rebuilt by someone smarter than me.
FWIW i have about given up driving it for fun this year.

[1project2many]

The GM column is a pain to rebuild if you don't have the tricks down. If the issue is that the wheel and upper column is flopping around, and it sounds like it is, the problem is most likely deeper than where you're looking. Literally.

Use this picture for reference:
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gmtilt.php

Below the bearing housing (#46) which you've removed, the tilt housing support (#63) , which provides the pivot point and lock mechanism for the tilt column, attaches to the column with four screws (#61). When the driver frequently uses the wheel as a handle to get in and out, these screws loosen up. Removing each screw, applying loctite, and reinstalling is the key to a lasting fix. This can be done without special tools if you are creative. The trickiest part is removing the tilt pivot pins (#39). There are special pullers designed for the job although I used a small slide hammer and a machine screw for years. The other challenge is to remove the the tilt return spring(#51) and locking cap(#52). The locking cap has a small, square hole that looks like it's perfect for a 1/4" drive socket. I've always used a large Phillips screwdriver though so I could apply downward pressure to release the lock. Be warned, the spring has a bunch of pressure on it. Push down and turn counter-clockwise a bit then release the spring. It won't go flying but it's definitely got some "push."

I don't usually use instructional videos but I honestly feel this job is made easier by watching someone do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKR3TNcahmw

[vintovka]

Thanks. Bushing the pin seats was interesting. Again The issue is that the column shaft is not being stabilized between the bearings in the head unit and i can't figure out why. Bearings are brand new BTW and It is assembled per diagram. Its like the shaft needs to be pulled up but can't. I tried adding shims but no good. Next options is to have it rebuilt or replaced. Currently waiting for my new mechanic to have time to address big issues so i am rewiring/replumbing all the gauges and accessories. Still keeping original 84 chassis harness but adding 2 fuse blocks. One for external options and one for internal stuff. Both are relay/fuse protected and switched via key.

As a side note for fellow thin skin geezers who bruise easily i find cutting the toes off a thick pair of socks and slipring them over your fore arms from wrist to elbow helps when working under those tight AD dashs.

[vintovka]

Well the hunt is over. I managed to fix the existing column as described in my build thread. In searching for a new column i did discover some disturbing stuff. Many say cheaper ones (under $500) are problematic and a few say outright dangerous. I will share the excellent video i used to fix mine:

https://vdocuments.net/jazzman-steer...k-rebuild.html