Dash cluster connection problem

[data89]

1969 C10 step side. Converted dash cluster from 3 gauge to 7 gauge window.

To start with: Everything worked with the 3 gauge cluster.

I have re-positioned the input cable connections for the 7 gauge cluster.

Before installing, all lights and gauges were tested and working with the brand new circuit cluster.

Now these don't work...glove box light, front side lights, cluster and factory gauge lights, gas gauge level, dimmer for cluster and gauge lights, dome light

These work...headlamps, high beam, rear side lights, directionals, stop/tail, heater, radio, wipers/washer.

To clarify, I have not used the factory temp, or ammeter connections on the new circuit cluster connections but have put tape on them so they don't short somewhere. I have separately wired the ammeter, oil pressure, water temp, and tachometer, which all work.

I have separately wired the (Autometer) tach light, temp light, oil pressure light, and amp light (parallel) and connected them to the fuse box cluster tab, and separately wired their grounds to a new bolt connection on the metal dash. So, now these are independent of the cluster circuit and work.

The first question is: Could my problem be related to no connection on the circuit cluster to the taped tabs intended for the factory gauges (temp and amp). Should those tabs be shorted across as though they had an instrument? Am I interfering with an incomplete circuit?

[pjmoreland]

Would you be able to list out which color wires you connected to which pins on the gauge cluster connector?

[data89]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Would you be able to list out which color wires you connected to which pins on the gauge cluster connector?

Since everything worked with my 3 gauge cluster, assuming they were hooked up correctly in the idiot light plug, I just transferred the wires according to the diagram for the new arrangement. IE ground 7 to new ground 6, cluster lamp and heater control lamp 12 to 8, etc.

But...I did not verify colors as I went. I know my wire number transfer was correct, as I verified that again.

I will be pulling the unit out again and will double check colors, grounds, and voltages.

First thing though is I want to know if the absence of the factory temp and amp gauges not being connected are affecting the circuit? As they are now electricaly connected Autometer gauges and autonomous to the cluster.

[cj847]

If I understand what you did:

The dome light, glove box light, and front side lights are not part of the gauge cluster project, but could be related to the light switch that you had to remove. First, I would check your fuses as I think you have blown one. (ie the fact that you don't have instrument cluster lights and dome/glove box/AC control light points to a blown fuse-I think it also affects tail lights, so check them).

The fuel gage and the temp gauge both get power from the pink wire. It sounds like you are only using the fuel gauge (as far as the circuit board is concerned). So, tape off all the other traces along the bottom.

The fact they are not connected shouldn't affect the circuit. CAUTION - the ammeter connections are 12V+ with key on or OFF so take special care to insure no short and that the tape doesn't fall off.

[data89]

Originally Posted by cj847

If I understand what you did:

The dome light, glove box light, and front side lights are not part of the gauge cluster project, but could be related to the light switch that you had to remove. First, I would check your fuses as I think you have blown one. (ie the fact that you don't have instrument cluster lights and dome/glove box/AC control light points to a blown fuse-I think it also affects tail lights, so check them).

The fuel gage and the temp gauge both get power from the pink wire. It sounds like you are only using the fuel gauge (as far as the circuit board is concerned). So, tape off all the other traces along the bottom.

The fact they are not connected shouldn't affect the circuit. CAUTION - the ammeter connections are 12V+ with key on or OFF so take special care to insure no short and that the tape doesn't fall off.

Tai/stop/directionals/rear side lights (but not front side lights)headlamps/high beam and independent gauges all work.
I've had a bad back and had to stop crawling around under the dash for awhile, but good now, so I'll start checking fuses before I pull the cluster out again.
A side question...what does the dashed line mean on a schematic?

[data89]

Originally Posted by cj847

If I understand what you did:

The dome light, glove box light, and front side lights are not part of the gauge cluster project, but could be related to the light switch that you had to remove. First, I would check your fuses as I think you have blown one. (ie the fact that you don't have instrument cluster lights and dome/glove box/AC control light points to a blown fuse-I think it also affects tail lights, so check them).

The fuel gage and the temp gauge both get power from the pink wire. It sounds like you are only using the fuel gauge (as far as the circuit board is concerned). So, tape off all the other traces along the bottom.

The fact they are not connected shouldn't affect the circuit. CAUTION - the ammeter connections are 12V+ with key on or OFF so take special care to insure no short and that the tape doesn't fall off.

On one printed circuit diagram it shows a dashed line going from the temp lamp to pin number 5. Yet on the plug wire diagram it shows no connection to pin number 5. Can you explain?

[pjmoreland]

Dashed lines on the schematic are optional connections depending on the equipment present. A dashed line to pin 5 would likely be from the ignition switch to light up the temp warning light while starting the truck to confirm a good bulb. I converted my truck from warning lights to gauges and I removed that connection because it causes the temp gauge to peg to the hot end when cranking the engine.