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#1 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
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Here is the deal:
I got headlight conversion units from Inpro carware for Christmas. I just got Silverstar bulbs today and put them in. I had e-mailed Sylvania about the difference between 9003 bulbs and H4. I had seen no physical difference in the bulbs at the store so I thought it good to ask. They told me 9003 are built to "higher tolerances" and H4 is for motorcycles. I got the 9003s. When I turned on my lights, my high beams were on but at very low power. When I switched to high beams, the low beams turned on low power. I felt the wiring and it was getting warm fast. I shut off the lights. What is the deal? Do I need to use H4s instead? What is the deal?!?!?
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Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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#2 |
ROCKET POWER!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 509
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well, what kind of headlight conversion units are those? A relay kit, new headlights and/or bulbs?
Whatever the case, you've either got the bulb wires mixed up or 9003's (i don't even know what they are) differ from H4. In any case, if the current draw is higher than with stock equipment your wiring and dimmer switch will not handle it, the wire diameter is questionable at best from factory. You'll need to run the headlights through a pair of relays. In fact, i would assume you have the wires crossed (low beams for highs and vice versa) and you're overloading the headlight wiring+dimmer switch.
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What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Walker, LA
Posts: 2,925
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Painless wiring makes a wiring harness just for this application.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...15&prmenbr=361
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Gary -1986 SWB: lowered 4/6, SOLD!!! -Best 1/4 mile: 14.51 @ 91.01 MPH -2001 Pewter Tahoe, billet grill, Corsa Sport Cat-back, K&N FIPK SOLD!!! -2004 Z-71 Extended cab with a flowmaster, BDS 6.5", 3" BL, 35x12.5x18 Trail Grapplers on Pro-Comp 18x9 wheels |
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#4 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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Mine did the exact same thing with the Midnight Moose Conversion lol. I Just unhooked the High beams till I have time to mess with it.
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~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#5 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
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All they are is the headlight unit - no bulbs or wires. It uses the stock stuff. The wires CAN'T be crosses as the harnes only goes on one way. I'll look into the harrness - I was going to do that soon anyways byt my own wiring job - the painless looks like less aggrevation though. I'll go with that.
Dave - how did you fix it then?
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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#6 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
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On the painless kit - it says it is for a 2 headlight system - do you think it is ok to run all 4 off of it?
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Walker, LA
Posts: 2,925
|
I'm sure they have a 4 light kit too. Try www.painlesswiring.com
__________________
Gary -1986 SWB: lowered 4/6, SOLD!!! -Best 1/4 mile: 14.51 @ 91.01 MPH -2001 Pewter Tahoe, billet grill, Corsa Sport Cat-back, K&N FIPK SOLD!!! -2004 Z-71 Extended cab with a flowmaster, BDS 6.5", 3" BL, 35x12.5x18 Trail Grapplers on Pro-Comp 18x9 wheels |
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#8 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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I havent fixed it yet lol!
__________________
~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#9 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
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Great! It must be in the wiring. I bought the cheapy $8 H4 bulb to see if it is the correct bulb. Same thing. So bulb doesn't matter. Is the ground backwards or something? I'm going to get a painless wiring harrness for sure now.
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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#10 |
ROCKET POWER!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 509
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You can have the ground wrong in a H4-connector in a few ways:
(Assuming the H4 bulb does not have ground wire connected to bulb body) 1. You're grounding the low beam filament, while having +12 volts from low beams to the original ground. High beam +12V in correct place. Result: Low beam works ok. Switching to highs will drive both filaments making them low powered, because you're running them in series. 2. Same as #1, but you have +12V high to original ground, and +12V low to original high beam connector. Result: You're driving both filaments when low beams should be on, grounding them through the low beam filament, low power. Switching to high beams, low beams come on at normal power. 3. You're grounding the high beam filament, while having +12 volts from low beams to the original ground. High beam +12V in low beam connector. Result: High beams on when low should be (but at normal power), switching to high's will drive both filaments, making them low powered. 4. Ground same as #3, but you've got +12V high beams to the original ground and +12V low beams to their apropriate place. Result: High beams work ok, but low beams drive both filaments making them low powered. But if you've got the ground right, there's only 2 ways to connect the power wires, reversed and normal. Btw, $78+shipping is a whole lot of money for some wire, a single fuse and two switching relays!
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What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild Last edited by RockHQ; 01-09-2004 at 01:31 PM. |
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#11 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
|
Thanks RockHQ that really helps. Let's narrow this down.
I disconnected the high beams to prevent unnessesary wear. The high beam indicator is stuck on. When I switch back and forth, it gets really dim (might be both high & low filiment on at the same time), switch back and it turns bright, but I don't know whick filiment is the correct low beam. The one in back (without the little dish reflector) is on at full power. Maybe the grounding system in the BULB is different and cause this problem? Maybe how it is wire so there is leakage to another circuit? If that is true, the relay kit will fix that.
__________________
Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 |
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#12 |
ROCKET POWER!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 509
|
I would begin by disconnecting the bulb connectors. Then with a test light see which wires get power. After you've figured the pattern on the connector, check the bulbs with a car battery for correspondence. After that, check for continuity between the high&low beam power wires, there should be none.
If those check out fine the problem must be your low/high beam switch isn't working (oxidized contacts or even burnt because of excessive amperage) or the wires. When you add the relay kit, make sure you remove all of the existing wiring except the park lights&turn signals. I myself would make a new wire harness, that way you get a cleaner installation since all wires can be cut to exact length and routed the way you want. It is surprisingly time consuming, even though there aren't many wires to route, but well worth the trouble.
__________________
What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild |
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