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01-10-2004, 07:58 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 10,497
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How to remove front rotors - 4x4
Hi everyone
I have a 71 1/2 ton 4x4 that I am going to put new brake pads and shoes on this week. I have done it before but never on a 4x4. What do I need to do to get the front rotors off? I am going to pull them tomorrow and take them to the shop Monday to have them turned. My plan is to do new pads and shoes, turn the rotors and drums, new front brake lines, and new fluid. Any other suggestions while I have it apart? Thanks Shawn
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Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
01-10-2004, 09:14 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 566
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If you have the internal mount hubs (only allen heads showing on the outside of the hub), you'll need an allen wrench - obviously. You'll also need an icepick or similar to remove the 2+ inch snap ring that holds the inner part of the locking hub inside the wheel hub. Snap ring pliers are handy to remove the snap ring from the end of the axle shaft, but can be done without with patience and ingenuity. Most importantly, you'll need a bearing nut socket - round with 4 square tabs on the end. Any parts store should know what you need and have it on hand. Some caliper attaching bolts use a 3/8 allen, some have a hex head, you might check that too if you don't have allen sockets. A torque wrench is good for reassembly, just like a 2wd.
Standard sockets will remove the spindle, which should be done so you can clean it out and also clean the torrington bearing that the outer axle rides on. Repack that bearing, clean and grease the thrust washer on the axle behind the spindle, lube the inside of the spindle to prevent rust, and check the axle shaft u-joints while you're in there. Wheel bearings are just like a 2wd. Clean the locking hub parts and lubricate (I recommend motor oil - it works even when it's really cold) for reassembly. The inner wheel bearing nut has a pin on it that must engage one of the holes on the washer, then the outer nut goes on. I can't count how many times I've seen this screwed up - so be careful. If this doesn't make sense ask and I'll try to figure out how to explain it without a pic or 1000 works. If you have accumulated crud in the ends of the axle tubes it's a good idea to clean it out before you begin this job. It's easier then because you can use lots of water to do it without worry of it getting somewhere it shouldn't be. If you have to pull the axles out for any reason it is a lot easier to get them back in without getting dirt in the diff if the tubes aren't full of mud and rocks. Those are the only things I can think of that are different from a 2wd. It is a pretty straightforward job. HTH Mike
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350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements. Last edited by 72k5; 01-10-2004 at 09:17 PM. |
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