Pilot bushing removal is no fun

[PanhandleShantyman]

Recent bad noises while changing gears convinced me it was time to replace my clutch, and I decided as long as I had the drivetrain out of my '69 i6 250 3OTT, I'd replace the pilot bushing as everybody recommends because "it's only a $10 part" and you might as well do the extra few minutes of work to replace the bushing.

Well so far this dang bushing from Hades has cost me over a day of messing with it and I still don't have it out. I first bought the pilot bushing puller from Harbor Freight , but it slips out and doesn't catch it the back of the bushing. I then went to 2 different Autozones to try a different puller, but their pilot bushing puller turns out to be the same tool HF sells, under a different brand name and in a different case. So I try the "grease and bread" method from YouTube, which accomplishes nothing but getting grease and bread all over my garage floor when I try to drive it in with a socket extension and it leaks all around the tool. Then I figure I need a nice tight drive fit on the drive tool to give this the best possible chance, so I then spent an hour sanding down an oak dowel to get the snuggest possible fit to make the hydraulic method work. Still no good. So I went back to HF and bought their slide hammer/bearing puller set. This fits great but makes absolutely no progress on moving the dang bushing. I've given it 1000 hits from the slide hammer and that sucker is not going anywhere. So now between running around from store to store buying tools, and lying on my back under the truck failing to use them effectively, I've spent the better of part of two days on this problem.

At this point I'm considering just giving up, leaving the old bushing, and replacing the clutch etc and getting back to driving my truck. But, I'm worried the HF bushing puller definitely scraped up the inside of the old bushing, and I don't even know what bad things might happen if I leave traces of remnant greasy bread in there... If I just say "to hell with it" and hook everything back up, am I going to have new problems?

Conversely, does anybody have any pro tips on the process of chiseling these bushings out? I've read through all the threads discussing alternative ways of getting these out and clearly that's what I'm down to at this point, if I'm going to get that sucker out of there.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

I’ve used the Bread method a few times with success every time. Not easy just keep at it

You might get a nice sharp bushing spitting chisel and hack away at it. Eventually you’ll get it out

Good Luck

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by PanhandleShantyman

I don't even know what bad things might happen if I leave traces of remnant greasy bread in there

.

That is hilarious.

-Kevin

[RustyPile]

I've been using the following method for over 60 years, and it hasn't failed me yet..

Forget the bread and extension pieces.. My method works better using a metal alignment tool rather the plastic one that now comes with most clutch kits.. Fill the pilot hole with grease. The pilot tool has to fit as snuggly in the bushing as the input shaft of the transmission. Drive the pilot tool into the old bushing. As you drive it in, the bushing will "walk" out. The hydraulic force created by the grease will push the bushing right out. Periodically add more grease to the hole.

[Luke87gt]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading that, why? Because we’ve all been there!

Hang in there, be persistent, and you will get it.

I’ve only done one of these before. I too struggled with the cheap slide hammers not working and I resorted to chiseling it out. It’s been about 20yrs (on a foxbody Mustang) so I can’t quite remember the details but be very careful if you decide to chisel as to not damage the seating surfaces. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I’m laughing about fresh baked bread scented burnouts lol

[RichardJ]

I've used grease to remove the bushing for years.

The last bushing I removed was by far the easiest. Just run a tap into the bushing and when it bottoms out, the bushing just slides out with a few more easy turns.

[vics stuff]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

I've used grease to remove the bushing for years.

The last bushing I removed was by far the easiest. Just run a tap into the bushing and when it bottoms out, the bushing just slides out with a few more easy turns.

That is a great idea. I had never thought of that. all my pilot bushing removal projects , I have used grease with 100% success.
Vic

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by rustypile

i've been using the following method for over 60 years, and it hasn't failed me yet..

Forget the bread and extension pieces.. My method works better using a metal alignment tool rather the plastic one that now comes with most clutch kits.. Fill the pilot hole with grease. The pilot tool has to fit as snuggly in the bushing as the input shaft of the transmission. Drive the pilot tool into the old bushing. As you drive it in, the bushing will "walk" out. The hydraulic force created by the grease will push the bushing right out. Periodically add more grease to the hole.

x2

[54blackhornet]

I learned a lot reading this thread…

[Alloyvert]

I used this tool when pulling mine last spring and it popped right out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[HalfBrit]

This puller works well.
https://www.northerntool.com/product...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Stanco]

Several years ago cheap Chinese pilot bushings hit our auto parts stores. They are not only adulterated with iron, but many of them are slightly oversize making it a pain to install or remove. I have seen these bad bushings packaged in new clutch kits.

When you drive one of these oversize iron bushings into the crankshaft the inside diameter of the bushing will distort. It doesn’t take long for them to fail. This is why you should only use a “Made in USA” 100% bronze oilite pilot bushing. The rule for a new pilot bushing is “if a magnet will stick to it, don’t use it”.

The part number of the good bushing is PB656HD. The HD at the end of the part number is the key to a quality bushing.

[72SB]

I have used the Autozone blind hole puller several times. Always works for me.

[MJN]

I used the bread method with success on the last one I replaced. I use a capscrew to pound the bread into the cavity. Best part is theres no mess other than pieces of bread to clean up afterwards.

[adf5565]

I just changed my pilot bushing as well. Like you I purchased the HF pilot puller and at first it didn’t work. I also tried the grease/input shaft trick but my bushing was too worn and it seeped past.

I ended up hitting the bushing in just a hair with a hammer/socket to knock it free from the position it’s been for 52 years. And then ground flat the HF puller fingers just a little so there was more to catch the inside of the bushing. After that it came right out easy.

[PanhandleShantyman]

Gentlemen, I really appreciate all the kind advice! I ordered some new gear so I can try round 2 on this bushing in a few days.

I think I'll give Alloyvert's grease gun fitting tool a try, and if that fails I'll try tapping it out like RichardJ suggested. I also ordered an American bronze bushing per Stanco's recommendation.

I truly admire the majority contingent's ability to make this process work with pounded bread, but since I have deeply and repeatedly failed to make that work, for my own mental health I am not going to try any more of that! Plus, at the rate I've been scattering bread chunks around under this dang bushing, I'm going to end up with a squirrel infestation in my garage... dang flying squirrels in the attic already chewed through my home AC condensation line a few months ago... and besides, my mama raised me not to waste food.

When I get back to this in a few days I'll let the board know how it goes... thanks for the encouragement!

-Will

[Accelo]

I understand the frustration. Some of these bushings are very tight.
Fist don't make it worse with a China bushing. The tolerances are not there. It will fall in or sometimes the crush so much, during the install, the transmission pilot shaft no longer fits. These will be extremely difficult to install and almost impossible to remove.
I always recommend precision measurements, of the bushing, be acquired before the install.

The HF Pullers typically have rounded edges on the edges, where they grab the bushing.
The range is also too much for each expanding puller. This often leaves the ball too far from the grabbing edge so the fingers can flex inward and loose grip. Totally incorrect IMHO.

I use OTC expanding blind hole pullers. They will grab, but the price can be high for these tools.
Other options:
The grease removal option:
This requires a close fitting mandrel. A steel driver of some type is useful. Wood or plastic not the best choice. If the driver is too loose this method will not work.
Also using a large hammer, or even a rubber hammer is best.
Small hammers do no transfer enough force.


This puller may work? I have an American version of this tool but this design is the same and if the metallurgy is OK this should function;
https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-6486...s%2C177&sr=8-6

The tap trick it also effective. Typically I just tap the bushing and use a bolt to push the bushing out. Less chance of breaking the tap. Using the tap method combined with the grease should also be effective.
Cheers and good luck

[LS short box]

If have a die grinder why not just cut the bushing in two places and bushing should just fall out?
If its brass it should cut like butter.
You may have to use a cutter designed for alum.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by LS short box

If have a die grinder why not just cut the bushing in two places and bushing should just fall out?
If its brass it should cut like butter.
You may have to use a cutter designed for alum.

Grinding should work just fine

Here is another option.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...isplay.php?f=8
I can't believe how cheep tools are!
It's all about what tools one has access to.

[72SB]

I have pulled several pilot bushings and bearings using the Autozone blind hole puller I posted earlier. I suspect its the same thing as HF brand, IDK. The key is to use the end that you can adjust out so the ends grab behind the bearing. For me it has worked every time with just 3-4 slams of the slide hammer

The one shown in post 16 should work but likely hard to turn the handle. Too bad that end is not machined like a bolt head so you can put a wrench on it for more leverage

the grease or bread (wet) method is old school, and many have done it. Key is to have a metal rod with a very close fit to ID of bushing, so the bread or grease does not puke out between bushing and tool

If you have a LS motor NEVER pound anything into the rear crank..or motor will need to come apart

[Accelo]

If you have a LS motor NEVER pound anything into the rear crank..or motor will need to come apart.

Why is that? I know the crank has the thrust in the middle no on the end like the old SBC. It that the reasoning?
Of course I know most mechanics will just hammer them in. I suppose a pusher of some type could be fabricated? I have not found any factory information on this or the factory tool.

[LS short box]

On the LS crank I believe the end of the crank has just some type of thin metal cap.

[72SB]

yes metal cap on end of LS crank. You can pound in the pilot on them...just don't do the bread or grease thing to remove it. Use a blind hole puller

['68OrangeSunshine]

I made a ''Special Tool'' to remove Pilot Bearings from my 292 L6s. A notch is cut into some flat steel rod. [1/2'' x 1/8 ''] The notch hooks the Deep end of the Bearing and you tap on the far end of the Tool -- bent 90* -- with a ball pein hammer, rotating the notch around the circle as you go.
For higher performance, press in a Pilot Bearing, not a bushing. Obviously you want the best grade US-made part you can get.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 68OrangeSunshine;9328827]I made a ''Special Tool'' to remove Pilot Bearings from my 292 L6s. A notch is cut into some flat steel rod. [1/2'' x 1/8 '

The notch hooks the far end of the Bearing and you tap on the far end of the Tool -- bent 90* -- with a ball pein hammer, rotating the notch around the circle as you go.
For higher performance, press in a Pilot Bearing, not a bushing. Obviously you want the best grade US-made part you can get.

Pilot Bearing, yes! Been there and done that with bushings.