Body mounting hardware

[biketopia]

So I'm hoping to get around to mounting my cab and core support to my chassis in the coming weeks. I'm digging through my parts stash of new and used stuff. I'm planning to install these bushings, https://static.atechmotorsports.com/.../ens-17016.pdf I can source new bolts locally and have the specs on them, but I can't seem to locate the factory washers it speaks of in the directions. Are they just a thick washer or do I need the specific factory style ones and are they available anywhere?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by biketopia

So I'm hoping to get around to mounting my cab and core support to my chassis in the coming weeks. I'm digging through my parts stash of new and used stuff. I'm planning to install these bushings, https://static.atechmotorsports.com/.../ens-17016.pdf I can source new bolts locally and have the specs on them, but I can't seem to locate the factory washers it speaks of in the directions. Are they just a thick washer or do I need the specific factory style ones and are they available anywhere?

The body mount washers are close to the same diameter as the bushings they fit against and are approx. 1/8" thick. The core support washers are thinner but still thicker than most hardware store washers. Try ACE Hardware, Fastenall, (if you have one in your area), or as last resort a farm store. (check in the farm equipment area of the store for the bigger washers)
.

[PbFut]

Are you sure you want urethane bushings?
Different is not always better.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by pbfut

are you sure you want urethane bushings?
Different is not always better.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Are you sure you want urethane bushings?
Different is not always better.

95% sure. This will be lowered on coil-overs, big engine, corner carving type truck, even though it is a long bed.

Originally Posted by LockDoc

The body mount washers are close to the same diameter as the bushings they fit against and are approx. 1/8" thick. The core support washers are thinner but still thicker than most hardware store washers. Try ACE Hardware, Fastenall, (if you have one in your area), or as last resort a farm store. (check in the farm equipment area of the store for the bigger washers)
.

Thanks, that's what I thought they were. I have a vendor I can work with on that type of hardware if I can get it at my local nut & bolt place. Specifically it calls out a washer with a square hole in the front cab location, is there an actual requirement for that?

[Dashman]

Front cab or radiator support location? It's a square washer with a square hole because the radiator support body mount uses a carriage bolt. It restrains it from turning while the nut is tightened. You could access a hex head bolt with some long extensions, then you wouldn't need a square washer with a square hole. I don't recall there being a square hole washer at either cab mount location.

[biketopia]

The instructions indicate front cab, but makes a lot of sense for the radiator support though.

[Accelo]

"corner carving type truck"
How does body mount bushing help cornering?

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Accelo

"corner carving type truck"
How does body mount bushing help cornering?

I'm not concerned with NVH and gentle ride characteristics that most seem to be after when recommending rubber over polly.

[PbFut]

Keep the rubber just in case you get tired of the tighter connection to small road vibration. Just be true to yourself as to the amount of benefit and how much you actually use this benefit to the compromise in daily ride, if you intend to continue to drive on street. I get it. You want the best performance possible. Problem is you end up giving up the street use at some point.
True story. Bought a rather rare BMW in 2003 and HPDE tracking shortly after acquiring. By 2006, I replace with similar model in every way except, the rare for the model, (S54 Mcoupe) S54 motor. I stripped and caged the new one. Aluminum bushings and heim joint suspension points with +3 inch track. Finally a Jerico dog box and LS. It just never ends and of course this car will never see a street again.
Goood luck with the mods.

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Keep the rubber just in case you get tired of the tighter connection to small road vibration. Just be true to yourself as to the amount of benefit and how much you actually use this benefit to the compromise in daily ride, if you intend to continue to drive on street. I get it. You want the best performance possible. Problem is you end up giving up the street use at some point.
True story. Bought a rather rare BMW in 2003 and HPDE tracking shortly after acquiring. By 2006, I replace with similar model in every way except, the rare for the model, (S54 Mcoupe) S54 motor. I stripped and caged the new one. Aluminum bushings and heim joint suspension points with +3 inch track. Finally a Jerico dog box and LS. It just never ends and of course this car will never see a street again.
Goood luck with the mods.

Ohh I know the rabbit hole all too well. Bought a 95 Camaro with a blown LT1 to have fun little burn out car, nothing serous. Started with a 350 and mild cam & headers. Ended with it caged, full tubular suspension, solid motor mounts, stripped interior, etc. It had it's quirks for sure but I still drove it regularly. Was a fairly nice ride on the street too, no obnoxious drone from 55-75. When I lived in a neighborhood the neighbors didn't like the 5500 stall at 530am leaving for work through our hilly neighborhood. Pulled the drivetrain and it will be going in the truck with all the no limit goodies.

[PbFut]

At least the truck frame won't twist like the Camero's. LOL
You'll feel the weight difference though.
Condolences to your bank account.

[Accelo]

Here are some pictures. Original versa some replacements I have.
Also, note the instructions do not have any information on the manufacturer or place of manufacture. I tightened one set, possibly a different manufacturer than this one, and the rubber immediately split.
Another thing overseas never seems to get correct, is the durometer of the rubber.

[HO455]

Here is a list of bolts for a Suburban. As far as I know the two front mounts (The ones in front of the seat. They are the ones to the right in the photo)are the same for a pickup and a Burban.


Here is the hardware list from the WMB. Your results may vary.
Front mount: Times two
Bolt is 9/16"-12 x 6" with 2" of threaded area. I included the tapered area in the 2" measurement.
Under the head of the bolt in the cab was a flat washer 19/32" ID 1" OD 1/8" thick.
Under the body on top of the upper bushing was a flat washer 3 3/8" OD 5/8" ID 1/4" thick
On the bottom of the lower bushing next to the nut a flat washer 2 3/4" OD 5/8" ID 3/16" thick
2nd mount: Times two
Bolt is 3/8"-16 x 4" carriage head with 1 1/8" of threads.
Under the body on top of the upper bushing a flat washer 2 3/8" OD 1/2" ID 3/16" thick.
On the bottom of the lower bushing next to the nut a flat washer 1 7/8" OD 1/2" ID 1/8" thick.
This size is used on all the rest of the body mounts I will call it the Bottom flat. (8 total)
3rd mount: Times two
Bolt is 3/8"-16 x 2 1/2" hex head with 1 1/8" of threads. With the Bottom flat.
4th mount: Times two
Bolt is 3/8"-16 x 5 1/4" carriage head with what I believe to be 1 1/8" of threads. The bolts are so wasted I can't be 100% sure. With the Bottom flat.
5th mount: Times two
Bolt is 3/8"-16 x 6" carriage head again not certain but believe 1 1/8" of threads. With the Bottom flat.
I used Nyloc nuts for all the mounts.

Just to make the list complete here is the core support bolts. Times two.
7/16-14 x 2 1/2" carriage head with 1 3/4" of threads. I didn't measure any of the rest of the core support hardware as it is easy and cheap to get.

I had difficulty getting the two big bolts from local sources due to the thread length required. See post 18 in the link for the whole story.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

I hope this helps.