68 C-20 Yearly Maintenance?

[BanjoDude]

I'm putting my C-20 away for the winter. I've changed the oil. Can anyone advise on what all I should grease (don't want to miss anything), and what I should check? I'm thinking I should change the transmission oil (3 on the tree). What does everyone use for that? Is there anything else I should inspect while I'm at it? The previous owner mentioned that the dealer would pull the rear axles every year to check the brakes, which seemed strange, but I guess after looking at things that must be what you have to do.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Wes

[Steeveedee]

You can demount the drums to inspect the brakes, at least that is the case on the Dana 60 in my truck. No need to pull the axles, that's just going to be a cost upper for seals.

Engine oil, by the service manual- Change oil each 4 months. If more than 6,000 miles are driven in a 4-month period, change oil each 6,000 miles.

Diff, by the service manual, drain at 24k mile intervals.

Same manual, no indication of when the transmission oil should be changed. It's been long enough since I worked on one, I don't recall if mine had a drain plug! If yours has a drain plug, the diff mileage of 24k miles might be OK, but you should wait for others to chime in.

[3drburb]

I have never heard of the need to change all the fluids and pull axles yearly but maybe if someone have the need to get out away from everyone else and spend the winter wasting time that could be a thing.

As for storage, I would do the oil change and maintenance checks before driving and not storing, but give it a good clean, add some gas saver, top off the coolant, close it up tight and if stored outdoors, carport or shed maybe some kind of rodent repellent, if there is sure a thing, along with some cardboard underneath the truck to start with for a week or two checking now and again to see if anything is leaking and call it good.

Fall and Winter time here in the PNW is my favorite time to drive if it dry and there is no snow.

Best wishes.

[Casper42]

I agree with your procedures. The main procedures should be when winter is over, just before you want to drive it after sitting. But here in the PNW we don't need to really winterize, just ensure fluids are there and coolant is at a safe zone. ...and take them out on those hit/miss nice winter days

Originally Posted by 3drburb

I have never heard of the need to change all the fluids and pull axles yearly but maybe if someone have the need to get out away from everyone else and spend the winter wasting time that could be a thing.

As for storage, I would do the oil change and maintenance checks before driving and not storing, but give it a good clean, add some gas saver, top off the coolant, close it up tight and if stored outdoors, carport or shed maybe some kind of rodent repellent, if there is sure a thing, along with some cardboard underneath the truck to start with for a week or two checking now and again to see if anything is leaking and call it good.

Fall and Winter time here in the PNW is my favorite time to drive if it dry and there is no snow.

Best wishes.

[BanjoDude]

My cars are in a heated building, so I've always just done the maintenance when I put them away for the winter. I guess it probably does make more sense to do it before driving in the spring. Perhaps I'll change to that timing next year.

Originally Posted by Casper42

I agree with your procedures. The main procedures should be when winter is over, just before you want to drive it after sitting. But here in the PNW we don't need to really winterize, just ensure fluids are there and coolant is at a safe zone. ...and take them out on those hit/miss nice winter days

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

You can demount the drums to inspect the brakes, at least that is the case on the Dana 60 in my truck. No need to pull the axles, that's just going to be a cost upper for seals.

Engine oil, by the service manual- Change oil each 4 months. If more than 6,000 miles are driven in a 4-month period, change oil each 6,000 miles.

Diff, by the service manual, drain at 24k mile intervals.

Same manual, no indication of when the transmission oil should be changed. It's been long enough since I worked on one, I don't recall if mine had a drain plug! If yours has a drain plug, the diff mileage of 24k miles might be OK, but you should wait for others to chime in.

On an Eaton axle the drums are mounted to the backside of the hub. So yes to inspect the brakes you must pull the axles & hub.

[BanjoDude]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

On an Eaton axle the drums are mounted to the backside of the hub. So yes to inspect the brakes you must pull the axles & hub.

This must have been what he was referencing. What's involved with this? Do you need to replace seals each time?

[sixty8HDC30]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

On an Eaton axle the drums are mounted to the backside of the hub. So yes to inspect the brakes you must pull the axles & hub.

Not true for all Eaton axles.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by sixty8HDC30

Not true for all Eaton axles.

Yes. But true for these years of truck.

[sixty8HDC30]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Yes. But true for these years of truck.

My 68 c30 with the 11000lb rear begs to differ
not applicable to the discussion but eh

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

On an Eaton axle the drums are mounted to the backside of the hub. So yes to inspect the brakes you must pull the axles & hub.

This being the case, aren't there inspection holes in the backing plates?

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

This being the case, aren't there inspection holes in the backing plates?

I honestly don't know. I never really looked at them. Pulled all the brake parts off & replaced them with brakes from a 14 bolt. Now you have me wondering?

[franken]

After over 50 years of neglect anything that has oil or grease of some kind needs service.

[BanjoDude]

Can anyone suggest a proper oil for the diff and for the manual transmission? I use Redline MT90 in my 73 Triumph GT6. The selector on Redline's site shows 75w90 for the rear diff, but does not suggest one for the transmission.

[1970cstblazer]

The trans fluid needs to be GL-4 rated. GL-5 oil can damage brass parts in the transmission.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by BanjoDude

I'm putting my C-20 away for the winter. I've changed the oil. Can anyone advise on what all I should grease (don't want to miss anything), and what I should check? I'm thinking I should change the transmission oil (3 on the tree). What does everyone use for that? Is there anything else I should inspect while I'm at it? The previous owner mentioned that the dealer would pull the rear axles every year to check the brakes, which seemed strange, but I guess after looking at things that must be what you have to do.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Wes

Grease is a loaded question. For instance, I have in the neighborhood of 24 zerk fittings. If I remember right, my factory (1971) C10 had 18 of them. Then there's hinges, bearings and such, I don't suppose you mean those. Short answer for zerks is front suspension, lower steering from the box down, and drive-line.

Brakes depends on the miles put on it right. Seems odd he checked them every year, but what do I know. Maybe the prior owner was just careful and took advantage of an annual service.