Do all old trucks leak or is there an acceptable amount?

[IT Cowboy]

I might catch hell for this post or topic phrasing but when I was looking for a truck a few people told me these old trucks all leak. I kind of thought it was just then trying to justify their trucks leaking but now IDK?

The mechanic I had look at my truck said there are a few small leaks, the valve cover, a small area by the trans and the main seal. He said he isn't a big fan of chasing small leaks on older vehicles and just keep an eye out and keep em filled.

Any leak mitigation experts here, can these trucks be fixed 100 percent and what am I looking at in trying to do so. Are there thicker modern gaskets that will work better, is it worth the effort. Is there any reason these should keep leaking after proper repair?

I could easily tackle the valve cover myself and I have read about the main seal and that it can be done by removing the pan.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I might catch hell for this post or topic phrasing but when I was looking for a truck a few people told me these old trucks all leak. I kind of thought it was just then trying to justify their trucks leaking but now IDK?

The mechanic I had look at my truck said there are a few small leaks, the valve cover, a small area by the trans and the main seal. He said he isn't a big fan of chasing small leaks on older vehicles and just keep an eye out and keep em filled.

Any leak mitigation experts here, can these trucks be fixed 100 percent and what am I looking at in trying to do so. Are there thicker modern gaskets that will work better, is it worth the effort. Is there any reason these should keep leaking after proper repair?

I could easily tackle the valve cover myself and I have read about the main seal and that it can be done by removing the pan.

Even restorations leak my rebuilt by reputable steering box leaked the day my truck started. It was really bad for a while too. I may be lucky actually, switched from ACDelco Type 3 to Valvoline Type 3, and so far, knock on wood.

My transmission leaks a pinch, likely where the dipstick tube inserts.

Unless it's a gasket, valve covers leak because they've been distorted. Too tight and uneven.

Throw some full synthetic in old assemblies you'll find leaks you didn't know you had. It happens, old drivetrains leak oil and trans fluid, and if they don't fantastic.

[IT Cowboy]

I am in IT now of course and I live in a 1 or 0 world where something usually works right or it doesn't and it really doesn't help that I am OCD about a lot of things. I guess I need to realize the truck is almost as old as me and I will probably leak some places too someday.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I am in IT now of course and I live in a 1 or 0 world where something usually works right or it doesn't and it really doesn't help that I am OCD about a lot of things. I guess I need to realize the truck is almost as old as me and I will probably leak some places too someday.

Yeah I was in IS 15 years, my job required lots of research, and every detail accounted for. Turned me into a vegetable. No leaks yet.

It's CDO man, OCD is out of order.

[Steeveedee]

It takes effort to truly dry them up. Chevy went to center bolts in the valve covers, for example. That reduces the distortion from having bolts around the perimeter. They started using RTV in the '70s, and that helps a lot. I think I saw you have chrome sheet metal valve covers? If I ever do anything with my truck's engine, I'll go to billet aluminum to reduce valve cover leakage. Besides, they look . It doesn't actually leak that badly. It mostly burns it, I guess, because I don't see drops or puddles under it, just a little seepage.

[54blackhornet]

My 71 C/20 307 has no leaks engine wise. The heads have never been off. I did recently replace both valve cover gaskets (cork) because they were original and rock hard. Even the rear main seal doesn’t leak.

[Shifty One]

I don't want to draw Mr. Murphy's attention by responding to this thread...

[PbFut]

I find most will accept small leaks. The reality is that back in the day these trucks did not leak and with some effort can be made to once again not leak. Your level of commitment will determine your acceptable threshold. Mine is zero leaks and I am at that state. I want to be able to park anywhere without concern.

[Steeveedee]

Mine does leak transmission oil. "I'm just marking my territory", like an old Harley which a chain oiler. I'm going to fix it one of these days. It's actually pretty annoying having to put a quart of ATF in it every 6 months, or so.

[raggedjim]

Hmmm, I was an electrical engineer and my software worked fine until IT would update the system. So much for 1's and 0's... Mistakes are as prevalent in IT as leaks are in old trucks, it's just something that has to be fixed.

Good luck, Rg

[IT Cowboy]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Hmmm, I was an electrical engineer and my software worked fine until IT would update the system. So much for 1's and 0's... Mistakes are as prevalent in IT as leaks are in old trucks, it's just something that has to be fixed.

Good luck, Rg

LOL, love ya man

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

LOL, love ya man

Yeap, you should!

[Willshook]

No, they don't need to leak.

For valve covers, use Permatex to stick the gasket to the cover, then DON'T OVERTIGHTEN and use the stock spreaders under the bolts.

The main seals are going to get worse at some point, but there's no halfway measure to fix them.

Kinda the same with transmissions if it's not the pan.

Diff leaks are usually covers that aren't flat at the gasket surface.

So...for gaskets, they don't have to leak. for seals..."it depends"

[A1971Blazer]

My philosophy is that as long as it's leaking a little, all is well. When it stops leaking it's time to worry.
Fill it back up with the necessary fluids and go again.

[IT Cowboy]

I am probably going to put some UV leak detect in it and try to verify where it is coming from.

Can the rear main seal be completed by just taking the oil pan off and removing the 4 bolts to slip the new seal in.

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I am probably going to put some UV leak detect in it and try to verify where it is coming from.

Can the rear main seal be completed by just taking the oil pan off and removing the 4 bolts to slip the new seal in.

I have done it that way, there's a tool to help with that.

[HO455]

Rear main seals can be a problem on pre-Vortex engines as the original rope seals had asbestos in them and we all know that's verboten these days. If you need to replace one the best ones are made by Best Gasket, their grafite rope seals.

That being said poorly fitting oil pans contribute to many suspected rear main seal leaks.

Replacement of the rear main seal can be done without removing the engine but you will need to loosen all of the main caps to drop the crankshaft down so you can get ALL of the old seal removed and get the new seal properly seated and cut to size once seated. There's folks who say you can pull the new seal in with the old seal by tieing them together with fishing line but I've never made that work. Personally I would rather pull the engine to replace the main seal. It also makes checking the oil pan fitment easier.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by HO455

Rear main seals can be a problem on pre-Vortex engines as the original rope seals had asbestos in them and we all know that's verboten these days. If you need to replace one the best ones are made by Best Gasket, their grafite rope seals.

That being said poorly fitting oil pans contribute to many suspected rear main seal leaks.

Replacement of the rear main seal can be done without removing the engine but you will need to loosen all of the main caps to drop the crankshaft down so you can get ALL of the old seal removed and get the new seal properly seated and cut to size once seated. There's folks who say you can pull the new seal in with the old seal by tieing them together with fishing line but I've never made that work. Personally I would rather pull the engine to replace the main seal. It also makes checking the oil pan fitment easier.

Wait! What? BBC use a rope seal? I thought they use a 2 piece rubber seal same as SBC. Tell me I'm wrong & I'll shut up. I've never had a big block.

[treveiger]

I resealed my engine and transmission when I bought my truck. Not a drop of oil came out for about a whole week of it being back together . My fluid is never low when I check but I see small spots under the truck where I keep it. I think it's just the nature of the beast. Fix what you would like and ignore the ones you don't.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I remember the old Jaguar Owners' Club joke about if your Jag leaks, that's good. When it stops leaking, check the oil and add a few quarts.

[Shark_13]

That's why you save cardboard boxes... To catch the drips

I've had a 98 wrangler for almost 15 years, so I know about leaks.
It actually is completely leak free though! You have to go through and fix each one.

Avoid synthetics. Older vehicles/seals don't like them.

My new(old) truck, also leaks a tiny bit. I fixed the rear wheel cylinder so there's one done.

The gearbox drips though slightly.

[IT Cowboy]

I need to get some puppy pads made for shop floors.

Are the stop leak additives all snake oil and bad for the motor or are there ones that actually work or slow it down. I quit drinking beer somewhat lol so I guess I will have hard lemonade while in the drive replacing gaskets. I wonder if I could use RTV like caulk- joking

[Shark_13]

I would not put any stop leak stuff into a cooling system or engine oil.

I have used it on power steering systems though (no filters, no small channels etc. I've had success with the Lucas stuff on more than 1 vehicle.

[brandnew72]

My rebuilt 350 in my 72 does have some leaks. Have owned it for about 3 months now and she sits for 3-4 days, then driven on the weekend. Oil was full and now at 3 months I was down about a quart and nearly a half this evening.

I'm not too worried as I'll keep an eye on it. The diff leaked but that was not a bad fix. Sm465 not leaking anywhere so another bonus.

[dmjlambert]

The old design engines leak. In my opinion the engine leaking more than a quarter coin size spot or two on the floor after driving it is excessive, and less than that will be difficult to eliminate, and that is why your mechanic said he didn't favor chasing small leaks and just keep an eye out for it becoming more. I did reduce my engine leaks with new reuseable rubber valve cover gaskets, and studs and valve cover hold down spreader bars.

I was spreading a shovel's worth of kitty litter under the engine in my parking spot in the garage, and then recently I went to Lowe's and got a clothes washer pan from their appliance section.

If other components leak you can fix it so it doesn't leak at all using new seals and gaskets, such as differential cover, axle seals, power steering gear, transmission. Those things don't leak when in good repair. I had my power steering gear leaking more than the engine and it drove me crazy so I looked here on the forum and member Tx Firefighter had posted a step-by-step to replacing the seals. It was excellent and the seals cost me $20 or so and I did it.

Back to the engine, I asked the machinist who rebuilt my engine what oil weight I should use when I change the oil, and he showed me a jug of Walmart 20W50 oil and I made a note, and started using 20W50. One time I was in the store and couldn't remember what oil to get and I figured oil is oil and I thought I would just try 10W30. Boy did my engine make a huge mess out of my parking spot. It leaked A LOT. I found my note and changed the oil again to 20W50 and back to just a few drops of leakage.