Side trim with 3m tape the entire length ?

[IT Cowboy]

I have a couple of pieces of the wide lower body trim that are pulling away in a couple of spots. It looks like they used the stick-on clips but I haven't investigated it.

Are there trim kits that use 3M tape for the entire length of the trim piece so that it molds to the body and are they worth a damn or just problems?

I have used a hood deflector and side window shades on my Tundra and the 3M tape is crazy good for those applications and it hasn't let go.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

They used a specific type of clip, and the trim kits I've seen are built to use the same kind.
On my 21st Century cars, things just get stuck on with 3M tape, and maybe that's not a bad thing. It certainly is less prone to retaining moisture behind the trim

[Steeveedee]

Aren't some of the fasteners inaccessible when the truck is assembled? I think that's true, so since it's a repaint that could be why they went with double-sided tape?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Aren't some of the fasteners inaccessible when the truck is assembled? I think that's true, so since it's a repaint that could be why they went with double-sided tape?

Aint that the truth, props anyone able to install the bottom front door clip with the door on. Think I tried, nah....

I think accessible side moldings are limited to the bed, rear cab, upper door (W interior panel off), and lower fender.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IT Cowboy

I have a couple of pieces of the wide lower body trim that are pulling away in a couple of spots. It looks like they used the stick-on clips but I haven't investigated it.

Are there trim kits that use 3M tape for the entire length of the trim piece so that it molds to the body and are they worth a damn or just problems?

I have used a hood deflector and side window shades on my Tundra and the 3M tape is crazy good for those applications and it hasn't let go.

Each molding should be installed with no more than 1/3 of the clips the stick-on type, IMO, or face separation. The short pieces get none, nor do the upper fender and tail moldings, or is it mouldings?. If you pull any, fit them without clips, the bottoms especially bend easily.

From my experience the clips from reputable do the trick BTW. Even OEM stick-on clips need to be sanded a pinch. Replace the adhesive tape with new. NOS is too old, and the reproductions are trash. Use a promoter for sure, though I probably wouldn't apply that on nice paint, not sure it's safe.

[MikeB]

I remember seeing a lot of Square body trucks back in the 80s with wavy side trim because the factory used adhesive tape. Probably looked OK for a few years, but 8-10 years later...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I remember seeing a lot of Square body trucks back in the 80s with wavy side trim because the factory used adhesive tape. Probably looked OK for a few years, but 8-10 years later...

Square<67-72. Only improvement was HEI distributors and SI alternators....Okay, perhaps electric chokes, that are no-where as cool. Almost forgot mini-starters, but that's all

Sort of kidding, some square bodies are beautiful.

[IT Cowboy]

This evening I took the passenger door lower side trim off to see what was going on. It was 2 bolt clips one front and one back and three sick on clips. The stick on clips were the main offenders and causing it to stick out in the middle. I put it back on using just the front and rear bolt clips and it fit much better and is almost tight against the door panel except one place. I just ordered some more of the bolt on clips and I plan to install that in the one place on the passenger door and then eventually do the other trim pieces that don't fit great I hate to drill into the truck but I think it is a better system.

[IT Cowboy]

The adhesive pads on the clips in my problem area where it is away from the body look like the foam adhesive pad is swollen and pushing away. I washed it yesterday so it is possible the water got in there and messed it up after several years and broke the sticky.

I wonder if gorilla glue or RTV would adhere it lol

[58 Special]

Taking the inside door panels off might help. You might find the holes already there just filled with bondo.

[1970cstblazer]

I would stick with what GM used back when the truck was assembled. They used a mixture of screws, nutted clips, push on clips, and 3M adhesive back plastic retainers, depending on the year.

[IT Cowboy]

For whatever reason on mine the stick on clips make it stick out too much but maybe it is the old ones not put on right or swelling. I did order a couple new ones to try and see.

I wonder if gluing the push pin type ones onto the inside of the trim would work too. I might try to find some double sided 3m tape that is thicker and just use it on the inside of the trim to hold it against the door.

[IT Cowboy]

As a side note, I was able to get to the front bolt on the passenger door trim by just taking off the lower carpeted panel on the inside of the door. Someone has cut two holes inside the lower door behind that panel. Maybe they did it during painting or restoration IDK but it allowed me to reach that bolt. I guess it was also nice that I could see the inside of the door and the bottom of it looked like new with a rough textured coating (not black) and it seemed similar to the coating they put on the underside of the truck. I guess if I want to put some deadening matt in that door I will be able to.

[1970cstblazer]

GM used thick body schutz on the underbody, inner fender wells, and inside doors. This was primarily a method of noise reduction, not corrosion protection. 3M has a expensive, but good product to apply to replacement panels.