Setting up front wheel bearings - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Lippyp · 01-30-2004, 10:27 AM

Hi,

Can anybody tell me what is the best way to set up my front wheel bearings as they have some play in them, I obviously didn't get them tight enough when I changed the front shoes. (Drums are still rivetted to hubs) Is there an easy sure-fire way to get this right.

Thanks Guys

cableguy0 · 01-30-2004, 10:40 AM

spin the drum while tightening the nuts to make sure the bearings are seated correctly remember that nut it holding your wheel on so it needs to be tight.

Lippyp · 01-30-2004, 11:19 AM

How tight is tight? Is there a reccomended torque figure for these?

Hugger · 01-30-2004, 12:43 PM

I think its about 15 lbs. to seat the bearing, then back off to the nearest slot for the cotter pin...don't foreget the cotter pin!!
Erik

JimKshortstep4x4 · 01-30-2004, 02:34 PM

The way I set them up is to seat the bearings, make sure that they spin ok and then I tighten to the next slot to preload the bearings slightly. I recheck to make sure that the bearings are not too tight.

The tapered roller bearings work better with a slight amount of preload on them, otherwise if they are loose the rollers can skid
which is not good. Peload insures the all of the rollers are in contact with the races.

Jim

01-30-2004, 10:27 AM	#1
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	Setting up front wheel bearings Hi, Can anybody tell me what is the best way to set up my front wheel bearings as they have some play in them, I obviously didn't get them tight enough when I changed the front shoes. (Drums are still rivetted to hubs) Is there an easy sure-fire way to get this right. Thanks Guys __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

01-30-2004, 10:40 AM	#2
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	spin the drum while tightening the nuts to make sure the bearings are seated correctly remember that nut it holding your wheel on so it needs to be tight. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

01-30-2004, 11:19 AM	#3
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	How tight is tight? Is there a reccomended torque figure for these? __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

01-30-2004, 12:43 PM	#4
Hugger Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Wichita, KS Posts: 137	I think its about 15 lbs. to seat the bearing, then back off to the nearest slot for the cotter pin...don't foreget the cotter pin!! Erik __________________ 72 LWB - Hugger Orange 350/350 3.73 Next; 335hp GM Crate

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01-30-2004, 02:34 PM	#5
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	The way I set them up is to seat the bearings, make sure that they spin ok and then I tighten to the next slot to preload the bearings slightly. I recheck to make sure that the bearings are not too tight. The tapered roller bearings work better with a slight amount of preload on them, otherwise if they are loose the rollers can skid which is not good. Peload insures the all of the rollers are in contact with the races. Jim



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