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Old 03-02-2004, 11:17 PM   #1
nosto
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Any trick to centering steering?

About 2000 miles ago, I replaced the front end on my '67 with parts from a '77, mostly to get the 5 lug and discs. My '67 already had PS from the previous owner. While the FE was apart I needed to move the frame and rotated the PS by hand. Apparently, I never corrected for this, since when I turn right I've got a turn radius of about 40 feet, but left it's only about 25 feet. It's a bytch to try and pull into a tight parking spot by turning right!

Adjusting the tie rods won't change it enough. Also, my steering wheel is dead center, no problem there. What I think I need to do is to try to find a way to 'recenter' the pitman arm with the steering box. Does anyone know how to do this? Am I making something really easy sound difficult?

Thanks,
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1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!
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Old 03-02-2004, 11:42 PM   #2
PanelDeland
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Pull the pitman arm.Rotate the wheel lock to lock,counting the turns.Divide # of turns by 2.Turn wheel from one lock towards the other that # of turns.Reinstall pitman arm.
You will be in the ballpark.
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Old 03-02-2004, 11:45 PM   #3
mikeoj
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I've seen it before.This is what I did...Front wheels pointing straight ahead.Take pitman arm off gearbox.Take steering wheel turn it all the to the right,then all the way to the left,counting how many turns it takes to get there.Divide that in half to center the gearbox and steering wheel.Reattach the pitman arm with the gear box in this location.Try it and let us know how it worked out for you.Good Luck,Mike.Looks like i got beat to it!
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Last edited by mikeoj; 03-02-2004 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 03-02-2004, 11:50 PM   #4
nosto
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Two, almost identical replies!!! Can't go wrong there.

I kinda thought it was that straight forward, but couldn't think it through. I'll give it a shot real soon now.

But with the weather turning nice, it's just so much fun driving this thing around, I don't want to take it off the road for a second!

Thanks again,
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Galloway, NJ

Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53

1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!
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Old 03-03-2004, 12:03 AM   #5
Perchjerker
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The above steps will definitely get you close to alignment. Actually, you can actually do a very acurate alignment after you have done the above steps. It sounds hilbilly but my freind does it to a lot of our vehicles and it saves $40 at the alignment shop, plus it works just as good if not better.
First, get a length of small diameter string long enough to go from your rear wheels to the front.
Next, park your truck going as stright as possible. Then, using the string, stretch it from the rear wheel to the front wheel, looking to see where it hits the part of the wheel closest to the front of the truck as compared to the part of the wheel closest to the rear. Loosen the bolts on the Z bar sleeve and adjust until the string touches both the front and the rear of the wheel at the same time. Do this for both sides of the truck.
Remember, this will not work unless you have done what the above posts have stated.
Good Luck!
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