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#1 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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Cmon Already
I hooked up the wiring like you guys suggested, purple to "s" on starter, red resistor to HEI and ground to block.
I got nothing. Any ideas on what I need to check? My other thread has more detailed info if this is your first time looking. Dan. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=93304 |
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#2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
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well if your useing a hei you can not use the resistor wire
you won't get full 12 volts......you need a hot wire from the switched fuse box |
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#3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
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just run a wire from the battery and see if that starts it....
the resistor wire must go if using a HEI |
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#4 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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Are you talking about running a jumper wire from the battery to the HEI? Cause I got nothing, no headlights, no power to the fuse panel...nothing.
I'm somewhat electrically challenged so could this be the problem or is it something bigger? Dan. |
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#5 |
Custer had a plan too.
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: No. California
Posts: 344
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Make sure your bat is charged and the terminal connections are clean and tight.
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,552
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Sounds like you missed a wire at the batt. post of the starter
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#7 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ** THE FALL GUY **CHICAGO IL
Posts: 5,883
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OK....
YOU SHOULD HAVE ONE BIG RED POSITIVE CABLE GOING TO THE STARTER...... YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL.... THATS THE HEAD LIGHTS.... AND ONE BIG BLACK NEG. CABLE GOING TO THE BLOCK...GROUND THEN....THERE SHOULD BE A WIRE THAT GOES TO THE SMALL STARTER TERMINALS....LITTLE FOGGY ON THE COLOR... IS THERE TWO OR ONE THERE? ANYWAY THATS YOUR KEYSWITCH POWER....AND FUSE BOX AND OF COURSE THE 12 VOLT WIRE TO THE HEI POSITIVE TERMINAL..ON THE CAP....YOU DO HAVE THE OTHER PLUG FROM THE HEI BASE PLUGGED IN ...RIGHT?? THAT SHOULD JUST ABOUT DO IT...... AND OF COURSE GROUND STRAPS FROM THE BLOCK TO THE FRAME ![]() |
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Actually ragenrat...that wire feeds all the electrical stuff in the whole truck.
Do you have the red wire that goes to the little junction block about 12 inches back on the passenger fender? |
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#9 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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I don't have any red wires going to the junction block. What do I need to do here Andy?
And Ragenrat, I'm a little confused about- "YOU SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE RED WIRE RIGHT NEXT TO THE BATTERY....THAT GOES TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL AS WELL.... " Are you talking about the same thing as Andy? And lastly, there are no grounding straps from the motor to the frame, I do have 4 little ones though. 2 go to the firewall from the valve cover bolts and 2 go from the frame to the inner fenders which I haven't put back on the truck yet. Dan. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,552
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There should be a small pigtail wire going from the pos. batt term to the small junction block on the fender. And yes ALL the ground wires should be installed. The factory put them there for a reason.
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#11 |
Too many is never enough!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
Posts: 455
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Let me try!
From the battery...you'll have your normal positive and negative cables. Also, you should have about a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal to a junction block screwed to the inside of the passenger fender near the battery. Another red wire should be attached to this block as well and continues into the harness that runs across the top of the radiator support over to the drivers side. At this point the wire will split and run to the regulator, altenator, and then continue through the driver side fender to the right half of the fuse block going into the firewall.
On the left hand side of the fuse block coming out of the firewall, you'll have the purple wire and the resistor wire. The purple wire supplys 12 volts to the starter to turn it over. The resistor wire runs in the gutter above the firewall and splits into two yellow wires near the passenger side of the gutter. One yellow wire goes to the coil and the other to the starter solenoid. On a standard distributor, this allows a full 12 volts to flow to the coil when starting the motor and then after it starts and power is cut from the starter, it reverts back to the resistor wire supplying approx. 6 to 7 volts (not sure) to the coil. That being said...do not use the resistor wire for the HEI. Easiest method is to look on your fuse block and find a non-fused terminal for keyed ingnition (i.e. radio) and run a wire directly from there to the BAT terminal on the HEI. Leave the yellow wire disconnected from the terminal on the starter solenoid. If you want a cleaner install (this is what I do), remove the resistor wire with yellow wires attached from the loom all together. This will involve removing the mail connector from the fuse block plug. Go down to NAPA as they sell the correct male connector to go back into the junction on the fuse block and run a new wire from that point to the HEI. I really don't know why you're lights wouldn't even work on the last try? My guess is you didn't have that 12 gauge wire hooked up to the junction block near the battery?? Good luck! Jason
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Jason 1968 K10 SWB Fleetside 1971 K2500 GMC LWB 1968 K20 (later frame, donor body) 1972 C20 LWB parts truck 1993 K2500 Suburban, tow rig, 454, 4L80E NEW!! 18' Siem's car hauler 2004 Honda Odyssey (family man!) Last edited by J.Lance; 03-03-2004 at 11:51 AM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
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pic
heres a pic and a diagram of what they are talking about.
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70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
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diagram
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70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
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#14 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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Thanks for all the help guys, I couldn't have got it running without you. The problem was the wire from the positive to the junction block on the passenger fender.
Started it up and it sounded good for a few minutes until the radiator sprung a leak. Should get my new one today and hopefully be up and driving it by Sunday. Thanks again, Dan. |
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#15 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Danho, you really need to put a fusible link there, rather than just a length of plain wire. That fusible link could make the difference between your truck burning to the ground or not.
A fusible link is just a length of wire that will melt in two if there is ever a short somewhere. It's basicaly a fuse. They are available at any parts store.
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,977
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Another option is an updated version of the fusible link that actually is a blade style fuse that can be replaced if shorted.
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#17 |
Too many is never enough!
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Idaho Falls, ID
Posts: 455
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fuse
I wouldn't mind converting to a replacable fuse myself. What amperage fuse would I use??
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Jason 1968 K10 SWB Fleetside 1971 K2500 GMC LWB 1968 K20 (later frame, donor body) 1972 C20 LWB parts truck 1993 K2500 Suburban, tow rig, 454, 4L80E NEW!! 18' Siem's car hauler 2004 Honda Odyssey (family man!) |
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#18 |
Pesemistic Optimist
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Prineville, Oregon
Posts: 227
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Great info, I'm with J.Lance on this one. So what amperage if I use an inline fuse?
Dan. |
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#19 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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I can't remember where I got it from, but my notes say 30 amp.
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