won't start ...II - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Opper77 · 03-30-2004, 01:24 AM

I also posted this in the engine/drivetrain but I was thinking I might get a better response here so...

So I am still having trouble getting my 85 started....turn the key and nothing..no click..nothing...

Here's the situation:

-headlights work
-interior lights work
-pwr. windows don't (even on access.)
-pwr. locks don't (even on access.)
-starter was tested at a shop and its ok, rebuilt last year
-replaced ignition switch on steering column, no change
-checked all fuses, all are fine, although I have considered that one MAY be totally missing, jury still out on this
-battery is new

With a multimeter, it seems that there is no "switched" power to the fuseblock, although we found some constant power..

I'm at wit's end with this, and want to get back on the road now that the weather is cooperating..

Any help or past experience would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks.

apstguy · 03-30-2004, 01:58 AM

Hmmm... strange. You may have a fusable link burnt out. You could have a really bad short in the fuse box.

Chevyboy1962 · 03-30-2004, 03:19 AM

What about battery cables?

David

Opper77 · 03-31-2004, 01:08 AM

Additions to the above...

- brake lights don't work, along with the hazards and signals
- fusible link is fine (the one on the firewall; or is there more??) , and there's power to the back of the fuseblock

Is is possible that the neutral safety switch has a bearing on the switched power to all these things? It still doesn't expplain the locks though...

Anyone know where the locks get power from? Its not on any of the wiring diagrams I have...

flip66 · 03-31-2004, 04:20 PM

There is a neutral safety switch at the bottom of the column. Also check the ignition switch not the key but the switch that is mounted on the steering column it has a rod that goes to the key switch and they can go bad. There are some 10 gauge wires going to it. Make sure the red is constant the brown will be switched and the purple or the yellow will be the start wire it will only show voltage in the start position

*mike reeh* · 03-31-2004, 10:54 PM

do you have power on both sides of the junction block on the firewall? How are your grounds? I would remove the bulkhead on the back of the fuseblock (from inside the engine compartment) and have a look see. do you get power to the distributor when the key is on? When did the problem start and why?

mike

Opper77 · 04-04-2004, 12:46 AM

found the problem and fixed it finally; but not before a lesson in humility..

found that when I swapped in the new tranny I SOMEHOW pinched the main power wire from the alternator to the fuseblock between the bellhousing and the engine block...stupid, stupid, stupid..

Good thing the new engine is coming soon so it can be fixed.. Anyways, I just cut it and ran a new wire and the problem is gone.

Thanks for all your help..it was greatly appreciated.

flip66 · 04-05-2004, 02:00 AM

good job man see if you just jack with it long enough most of the time you get it fixed.

Russell · 04-05-2004, 04:27 PM

Sounds good man!

Glad you figured it out

BTW -- You've got a PM...

Opper77 · 04-05-2004, 05:49 PM

PM back at ya

03-30-2004, 01:24 AM	#1
Opper77 Ob-Gyn Kenobi Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 489	won't start ...II I also posted this in the engine/drivetrain but I was thinking I might get a better response here so... So I am still having trouble getting my 85 started....turn the key and nothing..no click..nothing... Here's the situation: -headlights work -interior lights work -pwr. windows don't (even on access.) -pwr. locks don't (even on access.) -starter was tested at a shop and its ok, rebuilt last year -replaced ignition switch on steering column, no change -checked all fuses, all are fine, although I have considered that one MAY be totally missing, jury still out on this -battery is new With a multimeter, it seems that there is no "switched" power to the fuseblock, although we found some constant power.. I'm at wit's end with this, and want to get back on the road now that the weather is cooperating.. Any help or past experience would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks. __________________ '85 GMC Shortbox... I used to have a firm handle on life....then it broke off.

03-30-2004, 01:58 AM	#2
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,087	Hmmm... strange. You may have a fusable link burnt out. You could have a really bad short in the fuse box. __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

03-30-2004, 03:19 AM	#3
Chevyboy1962 C10 now is a GMC Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Modesto, Ca Posts: 740	What about battery cables? David __________________ 1962 C10 swb fleetside, big window, custom cab 350/TH350 combo...Hot Rod 1963 C10 lwb fleetside, small window 230/4 speed...Blvd Cruiser *1931 Ford 5 window coupe (soon to be Hot Rod)... Father & Son project

03-31-2004, 01:08 AM	#4
Opper77 Ob-Gyn Kenobi Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 489	Additions to the above... - brake lights don't work, along with the hazards and signals - fusible link is fine (the one on the firewall; or is there more??) , and there's power to the back of the fuseblock Is is possible that the neutral safety switch has a bearing on the switched power to all these things? It still doesn't expplain the locks though... Anyone know where the locks get power from? Its not on any of the wiring diagrams I have... __________________ '85 GMC Shortbox... I used to have a firm handle on life....then it broke off.

04-04-2004, 12:46 AM	#7
Opper77 Ob-Gyn Kenobi Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 489	found the problem and fixed it finally; but not before a lesson in humility.. found that when I swapped in the new tranny I SOMEHOW pinched the main power wire from the alternator to the fuseblock between the bellhousing and the engine block...stupid, stupid, stupid.. Good thing the new engine is coming soon so it can be fixed.. Anyways, I just cut it and ran a new wire and the problem is gone. Thanks for all your help..it was greatly appreciated. __________________ '85 GMC Shortbox... I used to have a firm handle on life....then it broke off.

03-31-2004, 04:20 PM	#5
flip66 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Garland TX Dallas area Posts: 658	There is a neutral safety switch at the bottom of the column. Also check the ignition switch not the key but the switch that is mounted on the steering column it has a rod that goes to the key switch and they can go bad. There are some 10 gauge wires going to it. Make sure the red is constant the brown will be switched and the purple or the yellow will be the start wire it will only show voltage in the start position

03-31-2004, 10:54 PM	#6
mike reeh 5 day ban, learn to behave. Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: san diego, ca Posts: 683	do you have power on both sides of the junction block on the firewall? How are your grounds? I would remove the bulkhead on the back of the fuseblock (from inside the engine compartment) and have a look see. do you get power to the distributor when the key is on? When did the problem start and why? mike

04-05-2004, 02:00 AM	#8
flip66 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Garland TX Dallas area Posts: 658	good job man see if you just jack with it long enough most of the time you get it fixed.

04-05-2004, 04:27 PM	#9
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Sounds good man! Glad you figured it out BTW -- You've got a PM... __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

04-05-2004, 05:49 PM	#10
Opper77 Ob-Gyn Kenobi Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 489	PM back at ya __________________ '85 GMC Shortbox... I used to have a firm handle on life....then it broke off.

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