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#1 |
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,321
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HELP! Can NOT get my brakes bled!!
For some reason, I have NO pressure in my brakelines. I went to bleed them and flush the fluid today, now I have NO brakes at all! I've only opened the rears so far, but my pedal has no resistance at all. I cracked the rear valves open, and on the drivers side, nothing came out at all. Any help is appreciated! I did what the Haynes Manual said, and still didn't work. Got too dark to work for tonight, so I'll go at it again 2moro.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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did you let the master cylinder run dry? if so then you have to seperately bleed the master cylinder before you can bleed the rest of the system.
what proscess of bleeding are you trying to do?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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#3 |
Tonawanda 454
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Liquid Sunshine State
Posts: 2,755
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HaYNES? doh!
should have opted for the Chilton ![]() is it possible the line is crimped or blocked, if it is older may need to be replaced... those are the amateur observations... now the pros need to chime in lol
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91 Chevy Suburban Tonawanda 454 R2500 - SOLD!!! ![]() 04 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi 2WD, 24K miles (as of July 2011) In the past 30 years about 90% of Fords are still on the road, the other 10% made it home. ------------------- |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lake Oswego, Oregon
Posts: 1,028
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from what i have heard, its very hard to get 100% of the air out of the master cylinder unless you use a pressureized system.
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Ken Morgan For fun: 1964 Volvo 122 For slow: 1984 Chevrolet C-10 For everything else: 1997 BMW M3 |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Dowagiac, MI US
Posts: 579
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Are you opening the bleeders and leaving them open when you press the pedal. If so, you shouldn't do that. One person should press and release the pedal five times and hold it on the fifth, then open the valve and do so until you get a steady squirt.
Since you said you flushed the system it sounds like you need to bench bleed the master cylendar. Just remove one line at a time at the master cylendar, then press the pedal down, put your finger over the hole to the line you removed, then release the pedal. Repeat until you get a steady squirt. I think that is the right process. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CT
Posts: 315
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I had the same problem after changing the wheel cylinders, pumping 5 times, hold, bleed, tighten bleeder, and let off the pedal didnt work after like 10 tries. We opened a bleeder, put the pedal to the floor and held, closed the bleeder and let up th pedal. After doing to both sides a couple times my brakes were perfect.
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Anthony 07 Tahoe LT 70 Chevelle 450HP 383-TH400 77 GMC Royal Sierra~Resto in progress~ |
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#7 | |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Quote:
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Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() |
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#8 |
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
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Also, when bleeding the wheels, consider getting a "Mityvac" one man bleeder kit. No pedal pumping and much less mess. They run about $30-$35 at your local FLAPS.
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Marc Bona Hobbs, New Mexico 1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra. 454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.* 3.40 rear. ![]() |
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#9 |
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,321
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Yeah, I believe the rear brake resvr. has ran dry while bleeding. I'll try bleedin the MC 2moro in the light. Thanks for the tips guys.
BTW: I got the Chilton's too ![]() |
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#10 |
Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,065
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As Brad Seifferlein said, you need to bench bleed the master cylinder.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
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#11 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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MityVacs are AWESOME. the best money you'll ever spend, IMO. i bought one at a garage sale a few weeks back, and used it when working on my buddy's truck last weekend. i dont know how i ever survived without one!
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 1,704
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Quote:
![]() Bleeding out the rears is the worst when you run it dry. Not only do you have air in the master but you have air trapped in the proportioning side of the Combination Valve (proper name or what most people call a Proportioning valve). Three ways to clear that Combination valve. 1. Get the bleeder system that forces fluid from the wheel cylinders back up to the master. 2. Bench bleed master then re install. gavity bleed till you get fluid at wheel cylinders. Then loosen the inlet line for the rear circuit on the Combination valve on front crossmember and tap the CV to dislodge air. DO NOT LET RESIVOIOR RUN DRY or you have to start all over. 3. After gravity bleeding or pump bleeding if still not a firm peddle you can put vacuum on the Resirvior for a couple house and it should draw air back up out of the system. I haven;t tried this but a pro wrench buddy of mine says it will work if all else fails. I understand the principle and have used it when doing some precision moulding for parts fixtures and inks when I was in the printing buisness. Works like a charm with that stuff. Only need to pull 5hg to do the trick. Modified reservior cap to get a place to pull from.
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Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project |
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