Shimming a starter

[kevncar]

Trying to help a friend get the starter on a blazer he just bought working right. The previous owner had problems with the starter engaging and said he had even spent over 500 dollars at a shop getting a new flexplate and starter put on it. 2 months later it didn't work again.My friend just finished putting a new starter in it and brought it over and it will start but it makes a nasty grinding noise as it does. Thought I'd ask the wealth on knowledge here to help us get the thing shimmed right, or whatever it's gonna take. Thanks in advance.

[68C15]

many "reman" starters have the nose cone machined. I would suggest hitting the dealer for a new nosecone. these shouldnt have any shims at all. I used to have a wire guage for setting the distance between the starter shaft & flywheel. I dont remember the distance so I will have to try to find it.

[cdowns]

if it's makin noise the first thing to do is to check the flexplate for rounded off teeth ,it doesn't take long to trash a flexplate

i like the hi=torque ministarters they're easy to install and most have lots of adjustments built in

[Billy G]

I had this problem on my 76 Chev years back. What we ended up doing was getting a NEW nose cone....Using a paper clip as the "mesh" gap....milled the nose cone by file until it fit. Haven't had a problem since. That was in '92. Just remind my sons that if starter goes out...KEEP the nose cone. Hope this helps.

Seems as if it was in a "Chilton's Manual" I read that was the difference. I know it's NOT much gap.
Billy G

[tomatocity]

Better yet take the starter to an Auto Electric sshop and have them rebuild it. There is a very good auto electric shop in Sacramento and I take all of my starters and alternators to them. Three years ago I road my bicycle in the rain to deliever the starter off my S10 4.3L (PIA to remove and install). They were gracious enough to build it in two hours while I went for coffee. Substantial tip offered though not accepted. The rain quit after I got home, go figure Tim

Originally Posted by Billy G

I had this problem on my 76 Chev years back. What we ended up doing was getting a NEW nose cone....Using a paper clip as the "mesh" gap....milled the nose cone by file until it fit. Haven't had a problem since. That was in '92. Just remind my sons that if starter goes out...KEEP the nose cone. Hope this helps. Billy G

[2low72]

I had a problem a while ago, found out I needed to stop buying starters from autozone. I spent a little extra on a mini stater and haven't had a problem since!

[A.P.]

When I replaced the starter and flexplate on my truck, I used no shims at first. With no shims my starter would make a really bad grinding noise. Shim it and start with the thinest.

[fastwillie 696969]

grind the nose off of mine to after shimming didnt take it out

[krue]

I had the same problem and shimming it wouldn't fix it. Went to a local auto electric shop and he sold me a nosecone that fixed my problems.

[cowboy33713]

Howdy:
where is a good source for shims? Have a bit of a problem with my 67, but not severe. Most parts counter people here don't know what I'm talking about, and not having any shims to show them (never needed any before), I can't get across to them what they are, or what them look like.

[LONGHAIR]

Usually there is a "HELP!" rack at the bigger autoparts stores........they should have shims there.
I always keep the old housing though. Sure it's more work, swapping ends, but you know it will fit then.

[cowboy33713]

Howdy;
thanks again, Longhair. Saving a properly fitted nose is the hot tip , but this one was noisey when I bought this truck. Have been taking care of a bunch of other things first so starting on a regular basis hasn't been a huge consideration yet, but will be soon.
cowboy33713

[chevyhouse]

Shims won't fix this one....you are to far away from the flexplate with the conditions you are discribing (go ahead, ask me how I know) you either need to get the nosecone milled or better yet, shop around for a "80 thousands" starter-a Gm starter that is already milled .080 I called the manufacture, Westling starter, westling.com and they hooked me up with the part number and a local distributor and after 2yr of the same crap your friend is going through it was fixed. my part number was 729106s-080 for a 350. good luck

[jamie72]

hey krue how much was the new nose cone???

[krue]

I think it was thirty or forty bucks. I heard someone on here got one a lot cheaper. It uses the two bolts holes straight across instead of the diagonal holes. Gets it a few thousandths closer to the flywheel. I put it on a new starter and kept the new starter's nosecone to put back on when/if I have to replace it under warranty.