Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok you guys, I posted last week about a non-running LWB '56 in the local mountains. Endd up passing buuut...

Tonight I bought a running '55 SWB w/ NEAR zero rust for $4800. Tell me how I did:

The GOOD:

Truck was on non-op and supposedly garaged until last 6 months since 1991.
Prior (original!) owner had rebuilt the engine in '89 - 283 w/ 327 camel hump heads and mild cam, headers, 350TH trans and 10 bolt rearend.

Recently brought back to life w/ a rebuilt carb (Holley on Holley intake). I will immediately change all fluids, filters, belts, hoses of course.

Comes w/ new rear taillights, spare big rear window, rear window rubber, all chrome emblems are usable and with truck. Windows roll up and down freely. All electrical works including wipers and heater. Truck has 15x8 slotted mags I will sell later. I have 15x7 original Torque Thrusts for it. Bed and tailgate are arrow straight incredibly.

The BAD:

After claiming it had ZERO rust-through, I found a small - maybe 1-2" diameter rust through on passenger side kick panel with lots of dirt/leaves behind it & pass side cab corner has clearly been Bondo'd over and is now cracking. Driver door front corner is holed-through about 1/2". Yeah, I know, whatever you see there's 3x more you don't see...if you're lucky!
Poked everywhere else with knife and screwdriver - nothing. Floors are solid, above windshield, over headlights, rain gutters. Has a MASSIVE rear diamond plate bumper. A thin metal plate is tacked down over the original wood bed but it appears to be all there from below.

Pic's coming tomorrow when I pick it up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Gee, I'm SO hurt...nobody cares enough about my "new" truck to even make a comment?

Okay, here are the first pictures of the ugly old beast. Check out that rear bumper huh? Truck will turn 10's after I take that off.

As I wrote above, the engine was rebuilt in '89 and the truck sat after about '91 (the last year it was registered before 2011). It starts right up and idles with a mild lope. Wipers, horn, lights all work. Even a working heater!

I pick it up today and first thing is replace all the fluids and filters. What tranny fluid do you guys recommend for a TH350 like this in unknown condition? Shifts well as is though.

Since its been sitting a loong time, should I swap the fluid (do anything else to it?), run "X" miles and change it again? Any advice appreciated. Hoses and belt appear to be newish.

Obviously it needs an alternator to bring it into the LAST century. Too bad the first owner let all that rust accumulate after spending the money to buy the (cheap) chrome bits.

Oh well, feel free to comment. I won't mind
"As Purchased" last night. Came with a lot of good stuff including a spare rear window!


PO removing junk stored in bed.


'283 Rebuilt in '89. Sat after '91 - too bad. All that (cheap) chrome went to hell but it once looked better. Think an alternator would be a good idea?


New Battery, Rebuilt Holley barely visible. Heads have "327" and "2.02" in yellow marker on front of them. I'm assuming these are the desireable camel hump heads with 2.02 intake valves? Any other way to tell for certain - advice appreciated.

[slugo10]

Looks like a good start!

[MrTucker]

sorry, but $4800 seems steep to me...

[sgtusmc]

Good looking truck Dan. I noticed it has the ol black & yellow plate in the front (can't tell if it has one in the rear). Good luck on the build & keep the pics flow'n.

[ed69]

Looks like a great start to me! Looks liek a pretty straight truck.

[pipty6]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

sorry, but $4800 seems steep to me...

Sorry MrTucker Dan in Pasadena is right, Big window and running, Dont forget we are in California! Looks like a good start.

[MrTucker]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

sorry, but $4800 seems steep to me...

hey man - I want to clarify my comment. I in no means meant anything negative about your purchase. You obviously love you're truck and that makes the price worth it. Enjoy you're project!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

hey man - I want to clarify my comment. I in no means meant anything negative about your purchase. You obviously love you're truck and that makes the price worth it. Enjoy you're project!!

Mr. Tucker, We are TOTALLY cool. I've got zero problem with anyone's opinion or information about what trucks are availabe in other parts of the country. In fact I like knowing what's out there. Yes, I'm loving this truck. It's lust I suppose but I've wanted this exact truck - '55, SWB, big window, mildly built 283, auto, 5 lugs and little to no rust - for SO long that getting it is truly sweet for me.

Unfortunately guys, more pictures ARE coming. I just like keeping a running record of my progress so I can later come back and see in an organized way how far I've (it) has come. Tomorrow? I'm mounting my "new" vintage 15x7 early Torque Thrust mags! I'll definitely be posting about those over 15x10 slot mags on it now.

[ChuckDriver]

Keep'em coming Dan!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok you guys, I got the 15x7 vintage Torque Thrusts mounted today. Since this will be a weekend, Home Depot driver for a while so I bought used, but excellent tires from CL. I was looking for 235/70's and ended up with 237/75's. A bit taller (1/2") than the 70's but honeslty on this truck, at stock height it looks fine. It looks like an old guy's truck...which it IS!

Daughter borrowed my camera but I'll have it back tomorow and will post. I still have to find the small machine screws to put the center caps on anyway. They're cool "SoCal Speed Shop" caps from back in the day.

STARTER PROBLEM: The PO told me I'd sometimes have to hit the starter solenoid with a screwdriver(!) when the truck is hot. It happened today but luckily I was at a friend's house so I just hung out til it cooled. When the starter works, it works fine. No grinding, nothing. So I'm wondering if it needs a new starter or if I should just buy a replacement solenoid? What are your opinions? Yes, I know & agree about "while you're in there" - but its about $65-70 at NAPA vs $16-18 for just the solenoid. Frankly, I can use the $50 difference for other things on the truck right now. Like new plugs & wires, etc.

Also, does anyone have any experience with upgrading an old points type distributor to an electronic via the Pertronix kit? Advice appreciated.

[mgchevyparts]

Originally Posted by MrTucker

sorry, but $4800 seems steep to me...

Funny. Fast forward 3 years that truck here in Calif as he bought it will sell today, quickly for $12000 as is, or as was.
Nice truck and a very good buy.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mgchevyparts

Funny. Fast forward 3 years that truck here in Calif as he bought it will sell today, quickly for $12000 as is, or as was.
Nice truck and a very good buy.

Thanks for going all the way back and reading the thread.

I've been watching prices too and I'm shocked what prices are being asked for running, big window short beds but as they say, "Asking Ain't Getting!"

I think as it sits today (INCREDIBLY) it wouldn't be all that atypical to ask $10 or 12,000 IF I were selling it but if course I'm not. But as it was when I bought it? Nah, I'd laugh out loud if I saw a truck in that shape and someone asking $10,000 for it. Maybe someone would give that but it wouldn't be any of the guys on a board like this. You simply don't have to. Today I'd buy a non-running, but as complete as I could find truck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Mr. Tucker,
I don't mind the opinion on price at all. In L.A. big window shortbeds that run at all get scooped up fast and IF they are running it is typically with the original six cylinder and granny four speed. This having a rebuilt 283; much less one with some decent mods to it) plus the automatic, ten bolt and five lug conversion all with minimal rust makes it a deal out here. As soon as i throw the Torque Thrusts on it and re-primer it, it will actually be worth quite a bit more out here.

Thanks guys for the encouragement - I'll need it! Anyone have any experience with the "Calyx" or other Eastwood paint on products for those headers? I'm thinking of blasting them and painting them...with something...they're probably too old and maybe thin to bother with ceramic coating.

[Jonboy]

I don't know, Dan. I think it is asking for a matching set of slots for the front, too.

[STEVE60]

Nice looking truck!
Build it, drive it like it was yours.
Steve

[01spirit750]

Decent price for a running truck. Back in the early 90's I had my eye on a nice 57' that was a good driver. The guy knew what he had and wanted $7k, too high for me. I just wish I would have made him a cash offer.

I purchased mine for $1,100 in 94'. I was happy with the deal until I picked up the truck and the owner start pulling out box after box of newly chromed parts (grille, etc). Then I was very happy.

[chevyrestoguy]

I think the price is right in line, Dan.

Because it seems to run well, I would do a full flush (trans, radiator, gas, oil, rear end oil), change the belts and hoses (yours are probably dried out), trans pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, rear end cover gasket, and thermostat. I think you might have such a good time driving it that you won't want to tear it down for a full rebuild for a long time.

[Kim57]

I was just waiting for pics before I commented.
Looks like a nice clean truck.
You may want to prime the oiling system before you start it for the first time.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Great find! Looks like a very good start!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks all you guys for the encouragement.

I drove her home on the freeway 8-10 miles probably making 55 mph just fine. Brakes were excellent but I've got to get in there and see for myself or I'll not be comfortable. I'll flush the fluid at minimum but the old single master cylinder also makes me nervous. Does CPP (others?) make a direct replacement frame mount that is idiot-simple for me to install? Safety first is my motto so the mismatched lousy front rollers will go soon. I'm looking for a deal on 235/70's for the TT's I mentioned above. Truck actually has a fairly aggressive lope at idle. The gas guage (he put a new tank sensor in), oil pressure (good & solid on the idiot factory guage) and ammeter work fine. PO said the temp did but he broke something reaching behind dash - I'll take a look.

Chevyrestoguy - Yes, I agree completely. When you say "flush" do you mean drain/refill or are you suggesting something more positive to flush debris? PO said he pulled the valve covers and there was zero sludge and he felt the original owner was not BS'ing when he said it was a "recent" rebuild when he parked it in '91. PO admits he never changed the oil (WTF?!). I blew out a TON of crap from the cancer hole, under seat - which is loose & I suspect not original - how to tell? Windshield is fairly pitted and has a couple bad deep scrapes from wiper arms. I've got additional pic's but the cord to download them is in my office. I'll update tomorrow. Planning on using Valvoline or Castrol GTX - Weight for this oldie assuming it is rebuilt? What trans fluid is the right one? Same for rearend?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ahhh, Chuckdriver. You posted while i was babbling on. I'm still looking for your rear leaf spring relocation kit but barring that, any recommendations to get this thing down out of the clouds in the rear?

[Number 9]

I like it as it looks better then most i have seen. Great with the big back window.

[meter swinger]

Not bad money at all for a short bed v8 big window with minimal rust. Nice score.

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[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guys. Any of you that may have experience with keeping the straight axle (I'm likely going to a dropped axle), rebuilding the king pins, adding power steering to the straight axle, I'd love to hear your advice or post a link if you know of good advice already out there.