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Old 04-13-2007, 02:19 PM   #1
msgross
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Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Here's the scoop,

I have a 68 K-10 SWB and added front disc axle and 3/4 ton power booster. I went to order a set of SS lines from Inline Tube and they could not verify that a set for a 72 K-10 SWB, factory power disc will work.

My question is will it work? Are there any difference between the frame of the two years to make a difference? The inline rep was less than helpful with my dilemma and only stated "our sets are made to factory specs, if it doesn't work then you own it!"

also, --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Inline Tube also offers a 67-70 power drum brake line set. Would there be any difference if it was power discs? Are the lines from a prop valve (disc)different than a distro block (drum)? Are the hard line to flex line connections for front drum flex hoses different than newer disc flex hoses?
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1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
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Last edited by msgross; 04-13-2007 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 04-13-2007, 03:06 PM   #2
CUSTOM/10
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

I'm not 100% sure but I believe the 1/2 ton boosters the front goes to the front and back to back. ( Line connections ) and the 3/4 ton goes front to back and back to front. If I'm correct than "NO" the factory bent lines will not work. I would bend up my own.
Gary
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:01 PM   #3
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

That's an easy fix since it would tie into the proportionaing valve anyway. The lines above the prop valve are the one's that get swapped. The issue is that I need to be sure that the front crossmember and lengths of everything are the same. Minor tweeking is ok but with $200 wrapped up then I want to avoid major changes.

Is a 72 SWB K-10 frame basically the same as a 68 K-10 SWB Frame? brake line wise?
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:53 PM   #4
CUSTOM/10
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

The frames are basically the same, but the lines may have been run slightly different from yr to yr, and may have used different fittings or junction locations. Hopefully someone can answer your question definitively.

Good luck !
Gary
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Old 04-13-2007, 07:13 PM   #5
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Inline Tube also offers a 67-70 power drum brake line set. Would there be any difference if it was power discs? Are the lines from a prop valve (disc)different than a distro block (drum)?
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

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Old 04-13-2007, 07:41 PM   #6
JimKshortstep4x4
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

If it were my truck I would use the 71-72 lines and route them like the 71-72 routing. It means that you will have to relocate the flex lines to the 71-72 location and make clamps for the placement of the lines. Relocating the flex lines is probably the hardest part but it is not that bad to do. You will need the location of the holes in the frame for the flex lines. If you decide to go with the 71-72 setup, I can post some pics and give you the locations of the flex lines.

Jim
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:22 AM   #7
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Can you buy the '71 lines at the parts store? I just bought a '71 frame and doing the same swap. I have a guy that owns a hydraulic shop that said he can make the lines, but I haven't showed him exactly what I need..yet

I have the '71 brackets for the lines, entire frame actually.

Also, does the lower ball joint "press in" ?
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:47 PM   #8
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDIRON69 View Post
Can you buy the '71 lines at the parts store? I just bought a '71 frame and doing the same swap. I have a guy that owns a hydraulic shop that said he can make the lines, but I haven't showed him exactly what I need..yet

I have the '71 brackets for the lines, entire frame actually.

Also, does the lower ball joint "press in" ?
lower ball joint on a four wheel drive open knuckle? It goes from inside and down then has a lock ring to hold it in on the bottom. Not sure if you need a press since I have only removed them, not installed.

I think i'm gonna order the inline tube 68 K-10 power drum brake package. Hopefully nothing changed between the rubber lines from my 82 axle (metric banjo bolt) and the 68 hard lines. That's what they make adapters for right?
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:50 PM   #9
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Oh,so I go and decide not to buy SS lines even though they are visible with the height of my truck,and you go and buy them for yours......Tricker....lol.Guess its time to get some S.S. lines for mine Why are you using a 3/4 ton booster?

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Old 04-18-2007, 08:19 AM   #10
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Mine is all 2WD.
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Old 04-18-2007, 09:46 AM   #11
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Prop valve and dist valve are very different! On drum brakes there is a residual pressure that is not on disc. You need the proper valve for the corresponding setup. The flex lines on a drum setup on a 2x4 land on the wheel from the back and on a disc they land on the front. Not sure on 4x4. I have seen a kit that uses the bracket on the back of the crossmember, but I am not sure who had it. I have bought all of my plumbing from Inline and it seems it all depends on who answers the phone. Some guys will try to help while others couldn't be bothered. I went with a 71-72 disc/drum set on a crossmember swap from a '91 burb. The flex lines are now routed thru the oval hole in the frame just ahead of the crossmember. I will need to shorten and rebend the hard lines at the end where they connect to the flex lines. The flex lines are threaded so they will hold in place with a 5/8-18 jam nut.
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Old 04-18-2007, 10:32 AM   #12
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

I heard so many different responses when I did a search, I was under the impression that once you had the '71 brake and steering parts under my '69, the only thing I needed was the new flex lines for the calipers and a different prop. valve. to make the front disc work. This swap will require a whole new brake line set up as well??
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Old 04-18-2007, 07:32 PM   #13
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

OldIron69, I have no idea about 2WD's. 4WD hard lines stop within the frame (like a bulkhead) and then change to rubber and go to the wheel. So, drum to disc swap should not require any hardline changes... Yes you would have to use a prop valve for the disc setup, distrobution block for drum fronts.

Dustin, I got a good deal on a 3/4 ton setup so I decided to use it. Dual diapgrahm means better stopping. Of course I have a SWB that will never be loaded down that much so I'm sure i'll be locking up my shoulder harnass (i'm installing an S10 set). Oh yeah, I blasted my frame today... WHAT A CHORE! but it is so much nicer... I'm pulling the lazy route and doing pre-bent lines. $155 for OEM or $185 for SS, which would you choose! I also bought a piece of Pol-Armor 3/8th line to use as fuel...
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:35 PM   #14
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

Quote:
Originally Posted by msgross View Post
Dustin, I got a good deal on a 3/4 ton setup so I decided to use it. Dual diapgrahm means better stopping. Of course I have a SWB that will never be loaded down that much so I'm sure i'll be locking up my shoulder harnass (i'm installing an S10 set). Oh yeah, I blasted my frame today... WHAT A CHORE! but it is so much nicer... I'm pulling the lazy route and doing pre-bent lines. $155 for OEM or $185 for SS, which would you choose! I also bought a piece of Pol-Armor 3/8th line to use as fuel...
I choose the do it yourself choice.....Gives me something to do,most pre bent lines will need some bending to fit,so I might as well bend them all myself.I'm painting mine silver,I'm to cheap to buy S.S. so I'm making mine look good but just regular old lines...
Congrats on finally blasting the frame,whens it getting painted?And did you discover any more hidden rust?
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:47 PM   #15
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

I did find some hiding behind the forward rear spring hangars. Looks like the cutting wheel is coming out tomorrow for more "rivet removal". What did you paint your frame with and what do you suggest for mine? It's nearly bare metal right now. I hate to be cheap but I was looking at Rustoleum primer and glass black enamel (maybe with some hardner). I don't want this to flake off in two years but I don't see the need for POR-15 or $100 gallon paint that needs activator etc...
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:54 PM   #16
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

I recomend what I used,Rustoleum gloss black,and some sandable primer.(No,I didnt sand my frame first...lol.Thats just what I bought)I planned on using a clear coat,but havent yet.When the body comes back off it might get clear coated.I did scratch up my paint job when the body went on,that I need to touch up.But other than rusty metal scraping it,the paint has held with my climbing all over it bolting in crossmembers,ect

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Old 04-18-2007, 09:24 PM   #17
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Re: Brake line info needed - 68 vs. 72 K-10

I'm gonna try the Rustoleum Rusty metal primer and then Rustoleum gloss black (2 coats). Leave all my grade 8 bolts gold I guess. Doubt that i'll do the clearcoat. You know my 2005 Tahoe already has paint on the frame flaking off....go figure.
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The Garage:
1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit"
1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig"
1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else"
1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie"


My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"
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