25$ paintjob?

[drewdude92]

There was a guy earlier that posted that he wet sanded and painted his truck for just 25$ wondering what the process was in that? what kind of paint etc.

[carpainter]

Originally Posted by drewdude92

There was a guy earlier that posted that he wet sanded and painted his truck for just 25$ wondering what the process was in that? what kind of paint etc.

I'd like to hear that, too.
:lol

[Mrwlliam]

I rattle caned my truck A very nice blue.. wet sand and everything.. It was much more then $25.00..

Macco or whats it called can do it for maybe 250.00

[8mpg]

Easy.. Rustoleum paint job...

I painted my 66 stang with it and it looks pretty good. The color is satin black and cost me $7 for the quart...and I only used a quart. Lots of info out there about rolling these paint jobs...much easier and faster just to spray it

[kizer]

Grab a roller and go for it.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...job/index.html

[Richard8971]

Shane, I'm gonna leave this one alone...

Time to grab a beer... want one?

Don

[Shane]

<sits quietly in corner awaiting the arrival of his icey cold adult beverage>

[Effle18]

Here you go....http://www.rolledon.com/

I was screwing around a few weeks back and painted my bed...

[Elephanthead]

25 bucks is pretty cheap, maybe if you can find used paint for free, I mean the sand paper is going to cost you 10 bucks I would think?

[MDC]

Here's the link, post #24. I'd drive it and 8mpg's 'stang. I'm gonna try the roller method on a cutlass. Probly be summer tho.
The OP said he used Krylon rattlebombs.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=316676

[drewdude92]

not bad....well yeah it is defenitely gonna cost a bit over 25$ went and priced stuff today...that guy must of been full of it...lol o well wish me luck im goin to start sanding this weekend...

[Bowed]

I painted an old pickup one time with rustolium spray cans . It came out so good my friends thought It was enamel sprayed from a gun . You can't make it work if the temp is high because the light spray dries to fast and you will not get a wet overlap. you also have to be fast or you will get some dull spots .


,

[1969 SSR1]

it was me that posted the original topic. the truck was already primed black which takes alot less paint if its fbeing sprayed flat black. 1 pack of 400 wet sand paper which goes a long way if you use it correctly. Plenty of water and 4 cans of krylon flat. Yep I spent 25 bucks.

[MDC]

Originally Posted by 1969 SSR1

it was me that posted the original topic. the truck was already primed black which takes alot less paint if its fbeing sprayed flat black. 1 pack of 400 wet sand paper which goes a long way if you use it correctly. Plenty of water and 4 cans of krylon flat. Yep I spent 25 bucks.

Looks good man, I'd drive it!

[ripdog28]

So here is what is driving me nuts. I want to get the body painted in pieces so it all gets covered. Problem is that im running out of money. So while it is apart i will get some good rattle can primer for 5-6 coats. then the Blue i want and 3-4 coats along with wet sanding and a clear coat if they are in cans. think it will work?

[69ROTROD]

This is awesome!

I know some of you guys are hard-core "do it right the first time" types but for those of us early in our hot rod/resto lives, this is an awesome way to have a decent paint job on a budget. Thanks for sharing this. I think I'm gonna roll my truck this spring.

[MDC]

Hey guys check out Effle18's link, lots of cool stuff. The guys there are doint it for $100-$200 and several look great. Check out the guy's jetski

[MDC]

Well instead of bashing the general concept, why don't you fill some folks in on what they might be in for by using this method instead of sitting in the corner waiting on a frosty beverage. Let everyone be informed of the pros and cons and let them make the decision. Isn't this what this site is for?

[drewdude92]

thank you MDC ive always gotten pretty good helpful tips from people but...this thread i just felt helpless...but thanks sooo hmmm im guessin since all the negative feedback this is the most horrible solution on the earth to get your truck some new paint....

[69face]

i did it. the pros are of course the price. the cons are that as with any paint job if you don't do the prep work you're screwed. i didn't do anything but wet sand the original flat black rattle can job with 400 grit, mask and sprayed( i tried roller on another vehicle and the top surfaces didn't even out for me), and it was an awesome driver. here's a link
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2876332

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by 69face

i did it. the pros are of course the price. the cons are that as with any paint job if you don't do the prep work you're screwed. i didn't do anything but wet sand the original flat black rattle can job with 400 grit, mask and sprayed( i tried roller on another vehicle and the top surfaces didn't even out for me), and it was an awesome driver. here's a link
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2876332

This is exactly what I'm talking about.Lot of time and money spent on this car. Engine, trans, wheels, tires, supension. Oh, then $20 on paint job. Looks like an after thought. I would walk right by this car and all I would think is nice wheels. Nobody I know would give this car a second look. And THAT IS A SHAME! This car deserves more. $500.00 in materials is all it would have taken to make this car stand out. Or you could have preped and shot the car in epoxy prime and saved for a paint job.(I'm sure you're like most of us and had to save for what you've done.) If I can figure out why I can't post a picture i'll show you why.

[69face]

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

This is exactly what I'm talking about.Lot of time and money spent on this car. Engine, trans, wheels, tires, supension. Oh, then $20 on paint job. Looks like an after thought. I would walk right by this car and all I would think is nice wheels. Nobody I know would give this car a second look. And THAT IS A SHAME! This car deserves more. $500.00 in materials is all it would have taken to make this car stand out. Or you could have preped and shot the car in epoxy prime and saved for a paint job.(I'm sure you're like most of us and had to save for what you've done.) If I can figure out why I can't post a picture i'll show you why.

THE THING THAT YOU DIDN'T(OR WON'T) UNDERSTAND ABOUT THIS CAR AND MANY OTHERS USING THIS METHOD, WHICH IS VERY OBVIOUS TO MOST. THIS IS A DRIVER AND YOU WALKING BY IT WOULDN'T MATTER AT ALL. WHAT YOU OR ANYONE YOU KNOW THINKS OF THE PAINT ALSO DOESN'T MATTER. DRIVER MEANS DRIVEN!!! BY THE WAY "TO EACH HIS OWN", THE CAR SOLD FOR DOUBLE WHAT I INVESTED. BELIEVE ME WHEN I TELL YOU I KNOW REAL PAINT AND HAVE USED PPG, DUPONT, ETC. WITH GREAT RESULTS, BUT THAT CAR NEEDED OUTPATIENT SURGERY LIKE NO OTHER CANCER PATIENT HAS SEEN. THAT PAINT TO ME WAS A SORT OF EPOXY PRIMER JUST LESS EXPENSIVE

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by MDC

Well instead of bashing the general concept, why don't you fill some folks in on what they might be in for by using this method instead of sitting in the corner waiting on a frosty beverage. Let everyone be informed of the pros and cons and let them make the decision. Isn't this what this site is for?

We have tried (in other threads) to let people know what the pros and cons of rolling (or spraying using cans) paint jobs can be. It really doesn't matter what the "professionals" say about this, honestly. Sadly most of the guys on here who are looking to roll on rusteloum are not interested in our opinion and quite a few get upset when we try to suggest spraying the paint on, using automotive grade paint. This is one reason why I don't offer suggestions much anymore in the body and paint section.

Shane, Vintagesteel, Mike85 and myself, (I'm not suggesting that these are the only "pros" in here, there are several guys on here who know their stuff, just listing a few of the more common guys to submit advice) work or have worked for several years in the collision field and know a thing or two about body work and paint. Bottom line, Rustoleum was not designed for automotive use and is a non-catalyzed paint. That in itself is reason enough for me not to use it or even recommend it for this kind of use. And for the record, if I wish to offer Shane a beer, that is my business

Originally Posted by Slowlearn

Amen. I read this stuff to learn, not to be lectured. Some of the pro's need to take a chill pill. Just because you do something for 20 years doesn't mean you have all the right answers, evidence my golf swing.

This isn't something I would do to my truck, but I'm not spending $15k on a paint job, so I can have a lawn ornament either. I want to drive and use my vintage truck.

There is nothing inherently bad with using this painting system. It just produces different results. Whether it is satisfactory, is totally up to the owner of the truck and how he intends to use his vehicle. Paint is just a rust inhibitor, not a religion, measure of masculinity, or suavez cool.

I'd like someone who has done this to give a first person report on the pros and cons from their point of view.

We are taking a "chill pill", so to speak. I think the guys on here will know what I am saying that we do learn from trial and error. We offer suggestions like these because we have seen the end results of using Rustoleum on cars and we want to spare others the end results of using it. I personally don't think we are lecturing either. If you post a thread on here, expect all different kinds of answers, the good and the bad. (good and bad as per personal opinions)

Funny enough, only the people who actually work for a living in the collision field do not recommend using Rustoleum. Just something to think about...

If you choose only the answers that fit your personal opinions, that is not learning. I am not saying this to you personally, that advice applies to me more than anyone. I would like to think that the reason I do know as much as I do about the body and paint world is because I have listened to other's opinions and applied them, whether I agreeded with it or not.

Your right, this isn't a religion, and we don't have all the right answers, but we do have experience using these kinds of paints. Again, every time we suggest spaying using quality automotive grade paint people get upset. I suppose if you bought a Yugo, it will get you from point A to point B... In my opinion, based on my previous experience using Rustoleum, suggesting that it is not inherently bad is like suggesting that using your cell phone to hammer in a nail is a good idea. Yeah, you can do it, but should you? Using a hammer will produce different results than using your cell. One was designed for the job, one wasn't, but you can use both...

If any of the Mods think I overstepped the bounds, please let me know. I will edit it, but I think I got the point across.

D

[vintagesteel]

I agree 200%. Seems like people think there is only 2 types of paint jobs. Less than $100 or more than $10000. This is farthest from the truth. I would take my truck to maaco before I ever THOUGHT about rustoleum. Do all the prep work yourself And wet sand and polish yourself after. They use urethane automotive paint, and it will only cost @$300-400. If that is too much Nason factory packs(which you can get at any DuPont paint store, O'Reilly's, etc...) are @$130. They come with a gallon of paint, quart of activator, and a gallon of reducer. It's not the best, but for low budget you can't beat it,and it is lightyears ahead of ANYTHING rustoleum has. My idea of "low budget" is @$500. Apparantly to others it's less than $100. I just think that if you can't afford the $130 for DECENT automotive grade paint, then you have other things to worry about than "fixing up" your truck. With that said, I appologize for coming off as a dick.
Like Richard said. Shane, Richard, Mike85 and several others are only trying to HELP. Look back at any of our other posts and you will see that the information we give is from experience. Things we learn and practice EVERYDAY. If I can save someone the headaches I've had to go through by helping them, then I will. To me, it is a shame that people like Richard and Shane don't post as much anymore because of stuff like this. These people (and Mike85 and others) have vast amounts of information that you have the opportunity to tap into and use. Cherish it. They don't have to be here. They are because of there passion for what we do. And I appologize again.

[Mike 85]

Another reason some paint jobs cost in the 10K and up range is,repairs done previously such as this.C'board/screen wire as patch panels and Bondo built a foot thick,rust encapsulators gone wrong,basically a big ass mess and ALL this has to be removed and replaced with the correct procedures as in the end,
OUR reputation is on the line and "if" something fails,YOU will be expecting US to fix it for FREE.
People who dive off into a project soon find out that there is a reason this is called,
body WORK and a paint JOB......
Doing it yourself costs you nothing in labor but your time & money.Cheap as it gets.
You expect someone else to do it and nobody works for free.Someone quotes you a bottom barrel price and you better question why.
Econo,3 coats of paint for $125.00.............
Unfortunately,My father beat into my head from an early age that there is only one way to do anything and thats the right way.Just because nobody will see it,I'll know.
I "like" to piss people off at times cause that seems to be the only way to make them really think about what their doing and most don't like to know their wrong but in the end,realize they were and we end up being good friends.
People "believe" that these Miracle Products are just that and the cheaper,the better.When in reality,they spend more time and money than if they would have followed a few tried and true methods and have a better job just because of the simple fact of a "little" more elbow grease.
Nothing worth while is EASY. If it is,then you better "think" about it.
If you choose to not take our advice,thats your prerogative.
We are only trying to help and keep you from the same pit's we have fallen into clawing and scratching our way out of and get you the BEST possiable job for YOUR money and one that WILL last.
As I always say,
It's YOUR project,Do it however YOU want.
Hopefully those who want to pursue this style of paint can find the information our Mopar brothers have provided useful.
I consider it an honor to be included with the likes of Richard,Vintage,Shane,Mike and the other pro's here.I'm no "pro" but a serious hobbyist who has spent the last several years doing p&b and learned by experience,hard work,and LISTENING to the advice of VERY knowledgeable people.

As to the question MDC asks. It's called the SUN.
Uncatylized paints have NO UV protection and WILL quickly fade.
Their simple binders,solvents & pigments,
Then you have the strength of the product.Think of it as the difference between mud and concrete. You can build a structure out of both but one will be MUCH stronger than the other.
Just imagine what your gas fill area will look like after a few spills at the pump.
Swapping that carb out and dribble gas all over a fender......
Little brake fluid for good measure....

For a "lesson" in paint,Call Barry at Southern Polyurethanes Tech line.
He makes these products and can tell you everything you will want and more.