16v ignition batery help

[layinframe]

i have a 16v/12v battery I would like to run my ignition off the 16v side of batt don't wanna have to charge battery all the time and don't wanna change to 16v alt and have to step down to 12v for the rest of the truck so id like to use a step up converter to use 12v alt to converter to 16v battery to charge will this work I have a chevy one wire alt 80- 100 amp


Product : DC/DC 12V (Step Up) to 18V 8A 144W Converter Regulator
Condition : 100% Brand New In Box
Input Voltage : DC 12V (10-16V)

Output Voltage : DC 18V +/-0.3

Output Current : 8A
Output Power : 144W

[layinframe]

[wilkin250r]

Oh, boy. I don't think this answer is as easy as you are hoping.

Disclaimer: I've never done this conversion, so my advice is not based on experience, but I do have an extensive education in electricity and electronics.

A normal 12V lead-acid battery has 6 cells in series, a 16V/12V has 8 cells, with a terminal at both the 12V and 16V output levels. The problem this creates is that you do NOT want to charge them seperately. It is highly (HIGHLY) recommended that you charge the battery on the 16V terminal to ensure all cells are charged to the same level.

This is the problem. What you are describing is charging six of the cells with your existing 12V alternator, and using a seperate power supply to charge the 8th cell? First of all, it would be difficult to ensure they are all charged to the same level.

Second, it might be very difficult to regulate. Charging voltage for lead acid is 2.25V minimum to 2.4V maximum per cell. This means your first 6 cells (the 12V portion of your battery) are anywhere from 13.5V to 14.4 volts. This means if your power supply on your 8th cell is fixed at one point, but your first six cells are bouncing around dependent upon charging voltage, level, and current draw, then you have a 0.9V swing with only 0.25V of wiggle room.

I like the idea. My starter is pretty slow, I would love to run 16V. But also trying to use 12V of that 16V on a regular basis, with significant current draws, and keep them all charged at the same level from a single 12V source might just be asking for the impossible.

[jjmorrse]

It is often a tiresome thing when somebody asks why someone else wants to do a modification. Usually it is a more polite way of asserting that they disagree with the idea. That said, I mean in earnest, What is the benefit of going to a 16/12 volt for your application? I really have no clue, and would like to know, if you do not mind.

[layinframe]

Originally Posted by jjmorrse

It is often a tiresome thing when somebody asks why someone else wants to do a modification. Usually it is a more polite way of asserting that they disagree with the idea. That said, I mean in earnest, What is the benefit of going to a 16/12 volt for your application? I really have no clue, and would like to know, if you do not mind.

no I don't mind would like to thank all of you or your input I want the most out of my ignition I have a lot on the 12v side/ relays /controllers/solenoids/fans/fuel pumps and want to use the 16v side for my ignition

[jjmorrse]

Thanks. In that case, if you don't get enough feedback here, a racers forum might have a lot of people running 16 v. There is an fbody forum that has a lot of overlap sometimes.

[wilkin250r]

Where were you expecting to buy this power supply from?

Depending on the internal connections within the battery, you might actually be able to do it with a SMALLER power supply, like 2.4V. If the power supply is completely isolated, it can be connected between the 12V and 16V outputs and used to charge the 8th cell indvidually. The theory is sound, but actual application may differ.

[layinframe]

ok what i have is a KR2416 - Kinetic 16 Volt battery •

•Valve regulated
•Ultra low resistance
•Faster recharging than other batteries
•Vibration resistant construction
•3 Post dual 16/12V for high performance ignition systems
•Runs all 12V gauges with ease
•3/8" Threads
•16V and 12V Applications
•AH: 62

Mallory nitrous 6 ignition
The NITROUS 6 Ignition Control operates on any negative ground, 12 volt electrical system with a distributor. It will also work with 16 volt batteries and can withstand a momentary spike of 24 volts in case of jump starts. This system delivers full voltage with a supply of 10-18 volts, and operates with a supply voltage as low as 8 volts. If your application does not use an alternator, allow at least 15 amp/hours for every half hour of operation. If you crank the engine with the same battery or other accessories, such as an electric fuel or water pump, increase the amp/hour rating

this is the step up converter I was wonder if this would work for charging the 16v side hooks up to alt then out of it to the 16v side of battery these are the specs for it.

Product : DC/DC 12V (Step Up) to 18V 8A 144W Converter Regulator
Condition : 100% Brand New In Box
Input Voltage : DC 12V (10-16V)

Output Voltage : DC 18V +/-0.3

Output Current : 8A
Output Power : 144W

[wilkin250r]

No, that power supply will not work.

If your ignition system requires 15amp-hours every half hour of operation, that means it's pulling 30 amps. Your power supply is only able to supply 8 amps.

If you want another way to look at it, 30amps x 12V = 360 watts. Because of the way electricity works, that will nearly double at 16V, to 650 watts. The step-up converter you listed is only 144W.

[Dannyboy1966]

My suggestion is if you have a slow starter, spend the little extra change at the parts store, and get yourself a good gear reduction starter, they will spin the motor right out from under the hood everytime. I've got an 86 GMC with a 350, best investment I ever made was to buy a starter for a 1998 Tahoe 5.7 liter, no more starting problems, it has a limited lifetime warranty, and you don't have to be a bodybuilder to install it, it weighs half as much as the monster original.

[hatzie]

^^^^ Agreed Gear reduction is the way to go.
I used a 12v 28MT off the 97 GMC donor on my 76 project and my 2000 GMC already had one. The only one with the old 27MT is the M1008 and that one is 24v NATO... The 24v 28MT available for that would be Chinese crap.

[wilkin250r]

I got the impression he's more interested in the 16V to run his ignition system, rather than his starter.

[layinframe]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I got the impression he's more interested in the 16V to run his ignition system, rather than his starter.

Yes already have a starter off of a blazer was able to pick up a couple of books this weekend read a lot of info you have already told me found a cheap 16v alternator powermaster 8006 100amp x 16v =1600 watts puts out 18 1/2+ volts now how do I keep it from hurting my ignition which say dont go over 18v