POR-15 on drip rails/gutters channel...

[68gmsee]

Anyone done this? Any pros or cons?

I was redoing the drip rails and had them all clean and shiny using a bronze wire wheel and decided to paint the channel with POR-15 first. I had some left from some painting I did earlier.

I am going to come back with 3M sealer in a few days. So far it looks pretty solid.

[Ace in the hole]

I am thinking of doing the same to mine only with pm industries rust sealer. I was wondering if it would affect the bond of the seam sealer.

[68gmsee]

I was going to rough up the POR slightly with sand paper just in case. I sort of layed it on pretty heavy on mine so it would flow into any potential openings. If the sealer doesn't stick, it still has pretty good protection.

I did that yesterday morning and today it looks solid as metal, almost. I didn't have any rust at all just noticed the old sealant was getting old and crackly.

[cdowns]

if i ever do drip rails again i'd use the porpatch as a base//its just thickened por15 comes in a tube like toothpaste and works really well

[68gmsee]

cdowns, I didn't know POR made a sealer... I did a search an found it

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=PP&dept=10

I may try that on my 69 Chevy when I do the rails on it. So far I like how the por filled into all of the seams of the drip rail. Thanks.

I guess no one has used POR on their drip rails so far. With all of the good things I've heard about POR it ought to be a good base for sealant or a good sealer in itself.

[LockDoc]

-
Thing is if you don't shoot a light coat of primer on the POR-15 while it is still tacky nothing will stick to it.... That's according to the POR-15 instruction sheet.

LockDoc

[Huck]

Our trucks have a double layered cab roof. If stored outside, the roof collects moisture (even in the desert) that creates rust. You can have rust inside this cab roof and it can come out at the drip rail seams.

Por 15 is a good rust stopper but I really like epoxy primer then covered with seam sealer. Painting over POR15 never seems to work well unless you cover with POR15 primer within 24hours of the initial coat.

[prg machine]

I used Rust Shield, it works better than POR and can be painted over.....................1/2 the price too.

[geoman]

Originally Posted by prg machine

I used Rust Shield, it works better than POR and can be painted over.....................1/2 the price too.

AGREED...I do not like POR-15. I went with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator...Works great at stoping rust. I plan on doing this as well on the gutters. You can paint right over this too.

[dan42]

I used this stuff, and the second picture is how it turned out - I'm gonna do a test spot to see if the primer sticks, then put the 2-part sealer in the drip rail. (I still have to double check to make sure I got all the rust).

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by dan42

I used this stuff, and the second picture is how it turned out - I'm gonna do a test spot to see if the primer sticks, then put the 2-part sealer in the drip rail. (I still have to double check to make sure I got all the rust).

That stuff is only a cleaner..............similar to Naval jelly or Ospho. I would make sure and clean it off thouroughly before anything else goes on it. I have used it and was not impressed with it stopping rust

[mrein3]

Here is what I did:

I flicked out all the old chunks of sealer. It came out in 2-3 inch long pieces that I still occasionally find around the shop.

Then I chucked a whire wheel in my drill and removed all the paint and primer and whatever else was there. I was lucky. My truck came from Wyoming where stuff doesn't rust too bad. I had no rust to deal with.

Then I used a PPG product - I forget the number but I use it all the time on bare metal. In fact I brushed it on my whole roof including the drip rails. DuPont calls their product Kwik prep. It is an acid and looks blue in the the bottle you buy from your paint jobber. It is made for applications just like this. Cleaned metal, under primer.

After following the directions with the junk in the above step, I sprayed PPG epoxy primer.

Then I used SEM seam sealer I bought from my paint jobber.

Then I sprayed PPG Omni single stage color. The label says MAE.

Two years and counting without a lift, bubble, or other bad thing happening.

[dan42]

Originally Posted by prg machine

That stuff is only a cleaner..............similar to Naval jelly or Ospho. I would make sure and clean it off thouroughly before anything else goes on it. I have used it and was not impressed with it stopping rust

Hmmm. The bottle says it can be topcoated, and the spec sheet says it sticks and is very hard to remove. Sounds like a similar product to POR-15 or rust bullet. I'm not doubting you, but where specifically did you have a problem with this product? I really don't want to have to do this thing over again if it doesn't work well, like you say, and would take the time to use the rust bullet if necessary.

[prg machine]

Originally Posted by dan42

Hmmm. The bottle says it can be topcoated, and the spec sheet says it sticks and is very hard to remove. Sounds like a similar product to POR-15 or rust bullet. I'm not doubting you, but where specifically did you have a problem with this product? I really don't want to have to do this thing over again if it doesn't work well, like you say, and would take the time to use the rust bullet if necessary.

I was prepping the top of the truck for primer. I used that same stuff.........it turned the metal black...............I cleaned the metal for the epoxy primer and before i was done cleaning the whole top the first half was picking up surface rust. It is fine to clean the metal with.that is it

[prg machine]

the rooster knows!!

[49studebaker]

Yeah, Por 15 is awesome stuff but definitely has it's limitations. I considered puting it on the drip rails of my pickup also, but after reading this post I think I'll do something different. Roughing up Por-15 is tough to do.

[chvtrkman]

Thanks for posting this, I have some rust issues in the drip rails also.I had been wondering how to go about tackling the repair.Now, I just need the time to do it.

[prg machine]

I wire brushed the underside of my cab and wasn't sure what to use.............I tried POR on a small spot of clean metal and the next day i was able to scrape it off with my fingernail...
so right next to it on the same metal.....I used Rust Shield . The next day i would have had to use power tools to remove it!!!!!

However in the bed of truck i did a half a** job of cleaning a rustyn spot... used POR and it stuck like crazy... I think it likes a rusted surface and the rust shield doesn't much care.



1/2 price and more user friendly..............I will buy Rust Shield every time...
A better product than both is Rust Bullet...............that stuf is like incredible for sticking power.. I have a spot on a pair of Jeans that has been laundered over 1 1/2 years and it still is hard as a rock and bonded on for keeps!!!!!

Rust Bullet for the ultimate job..
I used it on the truck till I ran out.

[redhead69]

You guys having problems with the por15 sticking are you doing all three steps? Just curious

[68gmsee]

Okay, here's what I did.

I wire brushed the drip channels until I got all the original sealer out. Got the metal shiny. Then I used a rust inhibitor that I got from the auto parts store and sprayed it on the channel. This stuff converts rust and/or protects metal and turns it black.

I let that dry for a day and came back and painted with the POR-15.

Friday morning as a test, I sprayed part of the channel with Duplicolor without sanding or roughing up the POR-15. I let it dry for a day.

I went by there today and tried the "nail" test to see if it would nick the paint or come off. It didn't... I scratched it harder and the duplicolor stayed on. Not sure if this will stay on or hold up to the weather, though.

I will paint the rest of the channel to protect it and see what happens. I'm not painting the whole truck yet, just keeping the channel from rusting for now.