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05-04-2004, 07:26 PM | #1 |
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
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Cant' start Truck.
After driving Truck for 9 months he decided not to start today. Smell gas likes its flooded, but holding the pedal to the floor until it catches didn't work.
I pulled a plug to see about spark and found it looked nasty. A Bosch platinum plug but foulde out in black gunk. 4 of the 8 were like that, 2 were so bad they had the tip covered over. I'm surprised Truck could get going at all. I changed all the plugs (had to pull the passenger side headers to get tho 1 on that side). Got everything back together, still no start. I've had to crank 2 to 3 short tries to get it started occasionally, but Truck usually starts 1st or 2nd try. Delco/Remy HEI ignition. My first HEI. . . hate to sound stupid, but I don't see a coil to check, and there are only 8 wires out of the top of the distributer/HEI ignition box. Edelbrock 1470, 750cfm carb. Its sounds like it is squirtin' gas fine, and you can smell gas after the 5th, or 6th, or 7th . . . start attempt. I'm clueless. Any ideas on what I can check before I have to get it (shudder) towed to a shop? Would like to fix it myself rather than take it in, but I need to get it running again. Projects await that need Truck!
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
05-04-2004, 07:53 PM | #2 |
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Check for spark. Take one of your old spark plugs and attach one of the spark plug wires coming from the dist to it, lay it down some where it can get grounded and have someone crank the engine over while you watch for spark. If none is found, I would suspect the ignition module as long as you have power going into the dist.
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05-04-2004, 08:16 PM | #3 |
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when the HEI was installed was a new wire run to it? if using the original wireing you wouldn't have been getting a full 12volts and would cause the module in the HEI to meltdown
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05-04-2004, 09:03 PM | #4 |
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Hmmmm.
I don't know. PO rebuilt and installed the '79 350. Which wire would it be? From the battery to the HEI? I need to check and see, but am uncertain as to what I am looking for.
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
05-04-2004, 09:37 PM | #5 |
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Location: Massachusetts
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Should be a wire from the unfused ignition circuit on the fuse box to the HEI.
First and foremost check for spark, before you diagnose why you don't have one. use a plug on the block, or what I like to do is stick a timing light on it and see if it flashes.
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05-04-2004, 10:15 PM | #6 |
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I agree with Gordo. I've found that modules go out more than the coil. BTW, the coil sits right on top of the dist. cap under a plastic cover.
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05-04-2004, 10:30 PM | #7 |
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
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Are the modules easily replacable? How do I test the module itself? I still have to go out and check for spark, thats the first thing. If I do not have one it sounds like the next step is to check the ignition module of my Delco-Remy HEI.
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
05-05-2004, 09:09 AM | #8 |
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Status so far . . .
No spark. Didn't spark with a plug against the block. Had the induction timing light on another wire, no light.
HEI is a late '70's stock Delco-Remy. Since the engine is a '79 4 bolt main it is either stock, or correct for the time period. HEI has three wires running from it through the firewall. One each, green, black, red. Green goes to aftermarket tach. Red goes to ignition switch, black is spliced into a different red wire also coming off the back of the ignition switch. Nothing at all on the fuse block "IGN UNFUSED" location, both lugs empty. Anyone have any pictures showing the correct wiring diagram for a "stock" late '70's HEI? What is a good publication to see the insides of the HEI? Something like the '67 chassis manual I use would be great. Thanks for the help so far, and for any more info anyone can provide.
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"Truck" '67 small window '79 350 .030 over, LT1 "clone" |
05-05-2004, 11:35 AM | #9 |
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Is the HEI rebuilt, does it have new components in it.
I have had this problem before. Drove to school, and when I left to go home she wouldn't start. It was the module. They are under the cap and rotor and you can take them to your local auto parts dealer and they should be able to test it. For your wiring you need a full twelve volts to the battery plug all the time. If you run a 14 gauge wire from your ignition unfused to the battery plug you'll be fine. The should also be a group of wires coming out of the distributor base, and they are all grouped together and can only go in the cap one way. There is also a ground strap that helps ground out the module and the coil. If thats not in there it will not have spark. I have also seen that the tach plug when plug in, for some reason will take the power away from the coil and want start as well. Just a few things I have had happen. Stanford
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