battery cable ?

[81ratrodc10]

So i changed over to using a remote solenoid today thought it would help with my hot start but didnt still does the same thing but anyway now for some reson the cable from the batt to the remote seem really hot never noticed if it was hot before whats wrong or is it normal thanx
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[jdheff1982]

It will get hot if the starter is being over worked or is being grounded somewhere. Check the batt cables and alt cables for any exposed wire. Another suggestions is to get thicker cables. They will handle the high currents better.

Also, get a heat shield for the starter. I bought mine from jegs. Made by moroso. Has helped quite a bit thus far. Good luck.
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[81ratrodc10]

So on my way to work tomarow there not going to burn up on me
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[jdheff1982]

How hot do they get?

[81ratrodc10]

Its only the one from the batt and it burned my finger alil on the metal conector on end so i felt cables and i was pretty warm i only was idieling my truck up to temp didnt drive it
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[jdheff1982]

With the recent experience I had, the positive cable grounded to the headers causing the neg battery connector burn in half. I upgraded to thicker battery cables and rerouted other related and have not had an issue since. I would def check all cables going to starter. I would almost bet that one of the wires is grounding.

Does your starter sound like it is struggling? Sounding weak?

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Call smith auto. Order a rebuilt. Bought 3 now and all have lasted to tje day i sold em.

Somethings not right. Check all connections from batt to down under haha. Sounds like a bad silonoid if u ask me. Do this. Connect ur voltage checker like this...+from batt TO+on voltage checker. -on voltage testerTO +cable to silonoid. If it reads anything with key on OFF position. Its bad. If it reads like 2v .09a WITH THE KEY ON it may b out of spec. Contact supplier to see if the draw u have is within spec.
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[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Oh. Also supplier may give u ohm values. If so just follow theyre directions. Also what batt cables r u using? Universal? Stock? Stock replacekent? Do u know the guage?
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[72lb4x4]

Chances are its getting hot at one end, which means the connection is resistive. The resistive connection is acting like a heating element and getting hot.

If you find the cable is only getting hot at one end, clean the connection by unbolting it and wire brushing. If that doesn't make it stop getting hot, chances are the cable connection is bad. Replace the cable.

BTW, a remote solenoid is just a bandaid fix for those who don't want to troubleshoot and fix the underlying problem...

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

:

Originally Posted by 72lb4x4

Chances are its getting hot at one end, which means the connection is resistive. The resistive connection is acting like a heating element and getting hot.

If you find the cable is only getting hot at one end, clean the connection by unbolting it and wire brushing. If that doesn't make it stop getting hot, chances are the cable connection is bad. Replace the cable.

BTW, a remote solenoid is just a bandaid fix for those who don't want to troubleshoot and fix the underlying problem...

and noalox it all!!
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[tucsonjwt]

If you have a high amp output alternator you will need heavier cables. My neighbor's Ford diesel with dual batteries has massive 1/0 cables between the batteries and(of course) the factory remote band aid Ford solenoid (Ford has a better idea.) Excessive heat does mean excessive resistance somewhere, unless you are close to an external heat source like headers.

[72lb4x4]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

If you have a high amp output alternator you will need heavier cables. My neighbor's Ford diesel with dual batteries has massive 1/0 cables between the batteries and(of course) the factory remote band aid Ford solenoid (Ford has a better idea.) Excessive heat does mean excessive resistance somewhere, unless you are close to an external heat source like headers.

A high output alt doesn't force the electrical system to use more current. The system pulls the current it needs. That's how electricity works.

A factory ford solenoid setup isn't a bandaid. Using 2 solenoids on a system designed for one solenoid is a bandaid.

The point is to try and understand what is happening, why, and do things for a reason. This approach is generally not used.

[tucsonjwt]

From high output alternator seller QuickStart:

Do I Need a Bigger Battery Wire to the Alternator?
Battery Wire Size and High Output Alternators

When upgrading to a higher output alternator you should always install a larger wire between the alternator and battery. Even with a standard output alternator you will get better performance and life out of your alternator if you upgrade the main battery wiring. The original wire just isn't large enough for proper power transfer. If you are using your alternator to it's maximum output or when you upgrade to a higher output Alternator you must increase the wires size. An alternators ability to send the power it is making to the battery is directly related to the wire size and quality of connection between the alternator and battery. Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail.

I guess they also don't understand electricity.

[81ratrodc10]

Well i drove to work this mornin and it wasnt as warm as yesterday im going to check the connections when im on lunch see if that helps and as far as the solenoid was only one of the things on the list if things to figure out my hot start prob i think the gas is boiling out of carb and i think i have a vacume leake to if after i look into that and still does it i dont know
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[81ratrodc10]

So all connections good what side of the solenoid should i be pet ing the muti tester on the side from batt or side to starter when i put it on side to starter it reads 13dc when i put it on side of batt reads 0 so i dont know what that means any more help would be great
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[81ratrodc10]

Wow no one has anything to say while on lunch i found mg carb was missing a bolt for some reson so i put one in tried to move my fuel line awat from motor a bit changed batt cable now it only gets hot when im cranking it over and it doesnt start it started to smoke a lil but seemed fine i think im having a vapor lock isue cause when its warm the starter really drags but if i spray either into carb it starts right up guy at work looked at my plugs said they needed to be changed would that have a big affect please some one help bout to just light it on fire lol
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[81ratrodc10]

Ok who cares about that it doesnt help my situation if we could stay on topic that would be cool cause im at a lose dont want to just start throwin money at it to not help
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[tucsonjwt]

Sorry for getting off topic - I thought you said you had a hot battery cable - I misunderstood.

[81ratrodc10]

The first part the second is good info
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[81ratrodc10]

No its ok i did say that but have that figured out i think now still have hot start prob
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[fixit-p]

Nova source almost has it right. The excess resistance in the purple wire going to the "S" terminal is caused by heat, resistance limits current flow (it does not increase it) when you limit current flow, yes you get a voltage drop which causes more heat and further increases resistance which produces more heat etc etc this is known as thermal runaway.

81ratrodc10 your hot start does the solenoid click?

If yes, the remote solenoid wont help because the pull in windings are already getting enough current to engage.

If no, you could benefit from the remote solenoid provided the cables are good.

72lb4x4 Chances are its getting hot at one end, which means the connection is resistive. The resistive connection is acting like a heating element and getting hot.

If you find the cable is only getting hot at one end, clean the connection by unbolting it and wire brushing. If that doesn't make it stop getting hot, chances are the cable connection is bad. Replace the cable.

As 72lb4x4 states above if the cable is getting hot in one area, that's where the excess resistance is dropping voltage. We use the term voltage drop but you can never just lose energy that's why it gets hot the energy is not lost but instead it is converted into heat. The best way to test your battery cables is by doing a voltage drop test.

Once you ensure that your starter circuit is tip top then you can move onto if the no start condition is ignition or fuel related.

The video below shows how a voltage drop test can be used to troubleshoot the starter circuit. Notice in the video when the solenoid clicks it drops over 11.5 volts that's what I meant when I said if the solenoid clicks the remote solenoid wont help because if the solenoid doesn't click you cant have a voltage drop on the cable.

Starter Circuit Voltage Drop - YouTube

[72lb4x4]

"The excess resistance in the purple wire going to the "S" terminal is caused by heat"

Wow. No. Sorry. If the heat caused the resistance, where did the heat come from?

Unsubscribed. No point in trying to help. The OP won't listen, and 95% of the advice is utter nonsense.

[fixit-p]

Originally Posted by 72lb4x4

"The excess resistance in the purple wire going to the "S" terminal is caused by heat"

Wow. No. Sorry. If the heat caused the resistance, where did the heat come from?

Unsubscribed. No point in trying to help. The OP won't listen, and 95% of the advice is utter nonsense.

Well since you'r quoting me I'll clarify my statement and answer your question, since I was referring to a hot start condition which does not exist when the engine is cold, the heat comes from the exhaust and engine block. It's fact that heat increases resistance and limits current flow.

Originally Posted by fixit-p

Nova source almost has it right. The excess resistance in the purple wire going to the "S" terminal is caused by heat, resistance limits current flow (it does not increase it) when you limit current flow, yes you get a voltage drop which causes more heat and further increases resistance which produces more heat etc etc this is known as thermal runaway.

81ratrodc10 your hot start does the solenoid click?

[81ratrodc10]

Ok so i just replaced bothe batterie wires and moved my fuel line from near engine it seemed to help but didnt cure it when u try ans start it it sounds like batt is dieing if u spray start fluid in it it will start right up so i think ir has to do with fuel now the cable onlg get hot when im crankin it for a bit and not starting
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[wyattglock]

Not to sound like a broken record, but what gauge wire did you use? I personally don't like to use less than 2 gauge. Some might call that overkill, but it has also taken care of heat buildup in the wire. Not trying to reopen debate about heat soak, or what might cause hot start issues again, just trying to understand what is going into your truck.