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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 239
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For those that are running air rides can you tell me what size lines you are running and your honest opinion on adjustment control please.
I have a slow leak on my left front that I need to look at and thinking while I am at it to make some changes... I am currently running 1/2'' lines and I am having trouble controlling with my gauges. Waaay too fast and have reducers to slow down the down but up is too fast imo. I'm thinking of going with 1/4" as I have read somewhere they were more 'manageable'. Thoughts? |
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#2 |
Stalker Nate
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Langley, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,556
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
All in the fingers lol I ran 1/2" valves with 1/2" Hydaulic line with 8 valves to control everything individually. With reducers you can slow it down of course but going up was never slow. The electronically controlled systems these days are top notch & go fairly slow if that's what you want, just a fair bit more $. But for airbag stuff it pays to get the good stuff first time around.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Posts: 86
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
I agree. I'm running an Accuair E-level with 1/4 aluminum line. Wide open, it airs up very nicely that's with about an 1/8 in I.D @ 150 psi. To retrofit your existing setup, I would think you have two options. Smaller valves or neck down to a smaller line size into your bags. Anyone?
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: levittown pa
Posts: 228
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
Just use an accuair manifold with 3/8 line the e-level imho is a waste of money. it'll take you a week with a new setup to figure out how to get to your preferred ride height. I daily drove (only vehicle) a bagged s10 for almost 3 years with no gauges just a regular 10 switch box and 1/2in valves and lines got to ride height with a quick tap of 2 switches in 5 seconds. Good luck don't want to see anyone waste money
As far as dropping it I just did quick tiny taps I could lay it down where you didn't even feel a bump Last edited by Chris.; 02-10-2015 at 07:00 PM. Reason: forgot |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 3,303
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
I rode in a 1/2" line rig before I did my first one. ALL of mine have been 1/4 for the same reason...I'm getting old and don't play video games so my hand / air coordination sucks. 1/4 line works great for me. Pull your fittings ( you have a leak anyway) and your line, replace with 1/4 and be happier. Use an air line cut off tool to square the line before the cut. I used to use a razor and I had small leaks. Air line jig cut off tool and no leaks. Keeps the end of the line square in the fitting.
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 239
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
I'm running an Auto Pilot digital controller now and don't want to change if I don't have to.
I was hoping to keep the existing fittings and have a drop down to 1/4". But if I have to change the fitting I will. Thanks guys, some good info here. |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Scotts, Michigan
Posts: 3,770
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
Another suggestion besides nice straight cuts of the air line, is when you insert the line into the fitting make sure to pull out slightly on the line to make sure that it is fully seated. Also they recommend anytime you pull the air line out of the fitting you re-cut it as sometimes small groves are created when removing the line and this can also call leaks. Also soapy water helps to locate leaks.
I run 1/4 lines on and older Ride tech set up. Marc
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#8 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,773
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
if you want speed control and balk at the GRANDS of expense that come with the accu air or e level stuff, just get manuals.
first on the accu airs and other electronic controls. when set up properly you can indeed make it behave like a 1/2" wide open system or a 1/8" necked down system. they are very accurate and have the individual wheel height sensors so it can learn what you want and repeat it. but the complexity is a bother, and setting it up can be a fiddly chore. very good stuff, but just because you can doesnt always mean you should. little larrys sells a 4 valve block for ~250 dollars. you'll need 6 3/8 npt to 3/8 tube fittings and 4 1/8 npt to 1/8 or 1/4 tube fittings, which will be all in around 80 bucks, and two dual needle gauges which you probably already have. when you want to go fast, you push the lever all the way. to go slow, push the lever just a little. because the lever acts directly on the valve opening, YOU moderate the speed of the system, not PWM or an algorithm. the drawbacks are that you will need all 4 bag lines and a single supply line (and an exhaust line unless you dont mind the PSSH being in your cab) in your cab all the way to the valves. and thats about it. the benefit is if you are like me and drive your truck year round, you can let the cab get warm and the valves wont stick, which is a problem with electric valves, and they dont just stick shut, they frequently stick OPEN which can be a bit concerning as you pump 180-200psi into a single bag and your compressor runs endlessly. other companies make manuals but they are usually the old firestone paddle type (1/8 orifice 1/4 line) or disguised schraders with pin buttons. I have a stash of old MIC manuals that are not for sale, and I just bought a little larrys because the block fit in the ashtray of my 65. very simple system design, low cost. not perfect but nice enough for me.
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 63
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Re: Q for the Air ride experts...
My suspension guru (Shameless plug for Todd at Lowboy Motorsports) and I have this running joke that you only run 1/2" valves and line on your first air equipped vehicle. Then you realize that its fun for like a week then you are just over the novelty. I put a reducers in my first truck that had 1/2". I did it on the line into the the bag so that lift and drop were reduced. After that I did 3/8". My current truck has the full accuair e-level with 3/8" lines, however the bulkhead fitting I have going into the cab for the air bag lines is actually reducing it to the equivalent of 1/4". Its definitely way slower, but I didn't need any faster than this. I did mound my valves in the cab to reduce the wear and tear of them being exposed to the elements.
The beauty of all of this is that there are so many options. Everything from manual valves all the way up to computer controlled leveling systems. And they all work great. Just depends on how far you want to take it and how deep your pockets go. So in the end, my suggestion would be to at least reduce down the lift somehow. Either plumb in a reducer on the lift side or just run 3/8" lines. My favorite setup was 3/8" valves with 3/8" lines. was a very nice balance of speed and control. |
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