The 283 Rebuild Begins

[MacAttack]

The shop driver’s coming in the morning to pick up the motor. I’ve stripped off all the unnecessary stuff off the long-block, leaving the pan and valve covers. I’m securing it on a pallet tonight.

I’m giving the old 3-speed away, eventually, but I’ll give you guys a shot at picking it up first. The clutch assembly looks in pretty good shape, so feel free to PM me if you want it.

If not it’ll go on Craigslist.

10 working days on rebuilding the motor and I’m having him do just about everything - anything that’s not practical for me to handle. So two Saturdays from tomorrow I’ll have her back.

The T350 goes out Wednesday for a complete run-through, with a nice shift kit and a B&M pan. I’ve got a brand new HD radiator, shroud, all new plumbing and kits for all my wiring under the dash that the thief butchered.

I’ve got about 75 hours in the project so far.

[283 Man]

Post some pictures after you get your 283 back, I love the 283 motor so much because they are as tuff as nails! they were in production from 1957 to 1967.is actually one of the best motors chevy built..

[MacAttack]

Will do. This is kind of exciting and I’ve been saving for it for a long time.

I just want to make this as clean as possible and reliable. This will be my daily driver. Driving the Chevelle now and leaving it parked anywhere makes me neurotic.

I’ve got some big Thrush mufflers off the Chevelle that ended up too loud, so I’m putting them on the C10 with some flared tipped chrome units, with inserts, on the ends - both exiting in front of the rear wheels.

Eventually (after I put some money into new rear gears - for the freeway) I want to mount my fat T/A Radials on some chromed and slotted Rally wheels with little chrome hub caps.

[javadoc]

What are you planning for the rebuild? I'm toying with building my 283 or just getting something... like a 327.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by javadoc

What are you planning for the rebuild? I'm toying with building my 283 or just getting something... like a 327.

New Parts: Pistons, Moly Rings, Rod + Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, Timing Chain and Gears, Camshaft, Lifters, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Drive, Gaskets, Brass
Freeze Plugs.

Machine Work: Block = Clean, Magnaflux, Bore, Deck, Power Hone
Connecting Rods = Clean, Check for Straightness, Hone Big Ends
Crank = Clean, Grind, Chamfer Oil Holes, Micro Polish Heads = Clean, Magnaflux, Pressure Test, Install New Guides and Hardened Exhaust Seats, 3-Angle Valve Job, Mill Bottom, Grind Valves, Set Install Height, Set Spring Pressure, Assemble with New Seals, Vacuum Test.

(Eddings Engine Rebuilding Inc.)

[MacAttack]

I’ll be blocking up the engine on 2x4’s after work today - on a pallet - to support the motor during transport. I should have bought my 3rd engine dolly - but ran out of time. I’ve got a 327 on one and a 283 (original from the Chevelle) on another.

Any ideas on securing this motor properly?

[MacAttack]

Cut two 2x4's at 15 degrees and transferred the bolt pattern from the water pump mount points and drilled two 1/2" holes - then put two 3" long 3/8-16 bolts into the holes. Front "legs" done. Then I used the hoist to support the block level and cut two 4x4's. Straped the hole thing to a new pallet and I'm ready to go for the shop pick up of the engine at 8AM tomorrow!

[MacAttack]

Big Yellow Taxi came and took my Baby away.

Well, it wasn't exactly a taxi - it was a Toyota pick-up and it was black. The '283' is off to the shop for 14 days. Now I've got to get on the stick. T350 to the tranny shop, new coolant lines and cast pan included.

Does anybody have any experience with the old mid-60's style canister oil filters? And can they be modified to run a regular spin-on filter?

[mr48chev]

Unless that filter adapter kit is different than most I have seen you need to run the stock check valve under it to make the filter work right.
It sounds like you are going to put together right and make a nice driver out of it.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Unless that filter adapter kit is different than most I have seen you need to run the stock check valve under it to make the filter work right.

Good catch - I'll make sure. Thanks.

Mac.

[MacAttack]

Friday night I'm going on Craigslist with the 3-speed tranny, bell housing and clutch assembly - if none of you guys want to come to Huntington Beach to pick it up - for free. Just saying.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Ask the machine shop for a filter adaptor. I am sure they can get you what you need.

[Fastrucken]

MAC not sure if it too late or not but have you concidered a 700r4. I promicie you will be 100 times happier. The deeper first gear and overdrive makes driving our trucks MUCH better. If I had a 700r4 insted of the th350 I probably wouldn't of done my 5.3 swap so quick...

Graham

[MacAttack]

I believe you, Graham, and I’ve heard that elsewhere.

Just that I’ve already got this T350, had it running in this same vehicle previously - behind a straight six - and I already own it. For the $450 to freshen it up and another $100 for a deep-dish pan, the cost is hard to beat.

I’ve already projected about $3,500 to get this ol’ girl back on the road - for everything, including new springs in the front, new brakes, new radiator, new exhaust, etc - so my budget’s screaming already.

But I will take it under advisement.

[MacAttack]

Found this:

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...kit/index.html

Will go to NAPA Saturday and have them line me out on the conversion.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Napa is where I got mine from when I had the 283

[MacAttack]

Well - just found out the block is cracked in the ‘283’. Lucky I’ve still got the old motor (original) from the 65’ Chevelle as a rebuildable back-up. Eddings is coming in the morning for my second motor, and luckily, it’s on an engine dolly.

At least I won't have to worry about the oil filter adaptor issue any longer.

[Fred T]

And the price of scrap is still high enough to offset the cost a bit.

As for crating the engine. When I had the machine work done on my old six I cleaned and stripped it myself. Put the block, head and crank in the trunk of my Bonneville and took it to the shop. Kid at the shop stepped outside to unload and asked where the engine was. I thought he was going to have to change his skivies when I told him.

[MacAttack]

Funny story, Fred. In my case the ‘307’ heads are coming back to me and the vendor’s picking through the parts he can use and scrapping the block and intake manifold (both of which are severely cracked - off to the smelter.

The shop’s sending his truck down this morning to pick up the original motor that came out of my 65’ Chevelle. If that goes up-side-down then I’ve got a stock ‘327’ requiring mucho work and if that fails - I’ve got a ‘350’ in pieces - requiring machining only.

I hope to actually drive my C10 again someday.

[Chevy Fleetside]

And here I have a drop in running 5.7L

[justcuz]

What kind of cam are you putting in it? I would suggest staying mild, something like a HO 305 Camaro cam. Ask the machine shop, but those small engines do not like a lot of cam, won't make much vacuum for power brakes if you do. HO 305 cam is like 403 in and 415 ex. I forget the duration and lobe seperation, it is slightly bigger than a stock 350 cam which is 390 in and 410 ex. Are you running a 2 barrel carb? How do you crack an intake manifold? Does this guy build hobby stock race engines? Old stock Chevy 2BBL intakes are worth bank to these guys for some reason. I swapped 3 of mine for some cast iron 4BBL intakes for Qjets and the guy was practically overjoyed to get them. Not worth much to me, I would rather have the Qjet and drive the primaries most of the time and still have the ability to tromp on it if needed.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

How do you crack an intake manifold? Does this guy build hobby stock race engines? Old stock Chevy 2BBL intakes are worth bank to these guys for some reason.

Got the manifold back today - when the shop owner drove down to pick up the back-up '283'. The crack was right at the water neck. Typical hack (the guy that took my truck) and he'd over tightened the 3/8-16 bolts on the thermostat housing. What a schmuck. Anyway - good catch on the cam - and yes, we're going for just a minor bump above stock, for the sake of the 2-barrel's economy. About 75% of Eddings rebuilds are close to street-stock and the rest are marine and HP stuff. They have a heck of a reputation here in the Southland. It will all be good - in about two Saturdays.

On the engine compartment front: Finished the painting and detail today. Took all the wrapping off the wire looms and redid it with 3-M Friction tape - old school to the max. Then I coated it with Performix 'Liquid Tape'. Looks like showroom quality now. Can't wait for the new engine struts and motor mounts to arrive next week by UPS. Took 30 hours of scraping, sanding, primer and flat black to get the sheetmetal back to a decent condition. The amount of engineering that went into the assembly is phenomenal - even for 64/65 and the rust was (thankfully) very, very lite. Tomorrow I'll secure the wire looms with S/S clamps and take the idiotic clutch pedal assembly off. One day at a time.

[MacAttack]

Engine compartment is complete - waiting for the powertrain.

Picked up the T350 automatic yesterday and the new aluminum pan holds 3 quarts of fluid!. Painted it flat black last night, after masking everything off.

The engine towers and motor mounts arrived yesterday, and despite spending well over $200 I think it was worth it - the set looks perfect.

The engine builder called and asked what I wanted to do with the heads from the cracked motor and the other various hardware Monday night. I told him to keep it and he said the second ‘283’ (the one out of my Chevelle) was torn down and cleaned - getting ready for mag. Hopefully that all went well yesterday.

[justcuz]

If you are keeping the 2 barrel you might want to plug the exhaust heat riser passages that go to the cast iron base of the carb. Drill them out till they clean up. 3/8 if I remember correctly, then tap and plug with 1/4 pipe allen headed plugs. Thread in till flush with top of the intake. This prevents the vacuum leak that developes when the base gasket blows out from the exhaust pressure on the base of the carb. Many people with early Chevys that had 2 barrels wondered why the car (or truck) suddenly started running bad. Usually this was the answer, the gasket blows out and causes a huge vacuum leak and acts like a giant EGR valve.

[MacAttack]

So the motor got delivered today and the final price wasn't that bad, considering the first block was total junk and that couldn't be determined until it was disassembled, cleaned and magged: $1,650 total, with a pick up and delivery from HB to Covina and back.

I sprayed the intake manifold today - which was bare metal and tapped the two heat riser holes: 1/2-13 and inserted Allen set screws - as suggested. Worked perfectly and a really intelligent idea, even confirmed by the engine builder - today.

Built my engine stand again, finding all the bolts from 18 months ago, and a move back into the new house. Now the fun begins. Well, once I get past this harmonic balancer issue.