OIL pan leak on a lowered truck...help!

[CEE1NG_RED]

I used UV florescent to find the leak and it is coming from the valve cover and front tip of the oil pan, where the lower tip of the timing chain is at (front of the oil pan). Seems easy fix, but my truck is lowered. Anyway I can change the pan in this tight area?? Any suggestions? Also, what gasket is best (one piece? rubber? brands?)??

[cdowns]

put truck up on tall jackstands

by lifting engine an inch or two your pan can b removed if you have the stock engine mounting system

one piece rubber gaskets by felpro are the best i have used

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by cdowns

put truck up on tall jackstands

by lifting engine an inch or two your pan can b removed if you have the stock engine mounting system

one piece rubber gaskets by felpro are the best i have used

Is that the Felco rubber gasket with steel core?? How do I know if I have the stock engine mounting system? And how and where do I lift up the engine from?? Never done this before.

BTW, my oil dipstick is on the driver's side.


http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc

[69GWC]

I bought a one peice oil pan gasket that have steel inserts to prevent over tighening, i bought in from Summit racing and it is a MILODON GASKET mil-41000 fits 262-400 1955-79 . thats summits part number.

On my 69 4x4 i unbolted the motor cross memeber and slide it forward so i could pull the pan off to swap it out not sure if yours is the same or not but it was the only way i could do it as it would not lift up enough to get the pan out.
Like was said some tall jack stands will be in order on yours.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by 69GWC

I bought a one peice oil pan gasket that have steel inserts to prevent over tighening, i bought in from Summit racing and it is a MILODON GASKET mil-41000 fits 262-400 1955-79 . thats summits part number.

On my 69 4x4 i unbolted the motor cross memeber and slide it forward so i could pull the pan off to swap it out not sure if yours is the same or not but it was the only way i could do it as it would not lift up enough to get the pan out.
Like was said some tall jack stands will be in order on yours.

Unbolt the motor cross member...how to??

[69GWC]

Mine just had like 8 bolts in it and then I slide it forward, my is a 4x4 so I can't say its the same but would be worth a look.
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[unclesalty]

howdy

I just finished mine up- its a v-8, 2wd. I used the one piece pan gasket from fel pro. Seems like a great product, wonder what took em so long. I also bought the black rubber valve cover gaskets, I think theyre worth the extra coin. You will need to get the frame up, and supported safely, so you have room to get at all those little 1/4" pan bolts. I had to remove the three motor mount to frame bolts (not the ones that go into the engine block). Two are on top (frame rail), one is under (cross member). Six total. Then I loosened the two tranny mount bolts.
The best way to lift the motor is probly from above with a cherry picker or an A frame, I cheated and pushed mine up with a bottle jack. I veed a small length of 2x4 and carefully centered the jack and block of wood under the harmonic balancer. The engine has to go up a good couple inches if you want to completly remove the pan, to do a good job cleaning and prepping. Also removed the torque converter dust cover, 4) 1/4" bolts. Remember to crib up the engine before you stick your paws in harms way, gravity sucks. I blocked mine up between the engine mount and the top of the frame rail. I ended up putting a new oil pump in mine, the coupler had slid down below the joint leaving nothing really to secure the drive shaft to the oil pump. Cheap insurance.

[unclesalty]

oh, might not be a bad idea to pop off the distributor cap, and the fan. I did the timing chain and gearset at the same time on mine, seemed like a good idea. good luck work safe.

[eldogg]

If your gonna try to do it in the truck rotate the engine to TDC #2 and pull the dipstick tube. Doing that will put the throws on the crank in the block and make the pan WAY easier to get out. If I were doing it I would pull the engine. It seems like more work but its a lot less frustration. Plus I would buy a complete gasket set and replace everything. 1 piece pan gasket is a must. You also can detail the engine before you put it back in.
Just my 2 cents.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Originally Posted by eldogg

If your gonna try to do it in the truck rotate the engine to TDC #2 and pull the dipstick tube. Doing that will put the throws on the crank in the block and make the pan WAY easier to get out. If I were doing it I would pull the engine. It seems like more work but its a lot less frustration. Plus I would buy a complete gasket set and replace everything. 1 piece pan gasket is a must. You also can detail the engine before you put it back in.
Just my 2 cents.

What is TDC#2? Do I have to pull the dipstick tube? It seems I have about 2"-3" of play at the front of the oil pan and nothing else surrounding the rest of the pan. Do you think I need to jack up the engine still?? Also, when changing the oil pan gasket, do I need to remove the timing cover as well? Seems that both are touching each other. Here's some pics...

[CEE1NG_RED]

More.

Excuse the moisture or water droplets. I was using a spray bottle to clean off the old UV florescent after spraying brake cleaner (and electrical cleaner spray) to remove gunk from the block.

[Stevo427]

When I did mine I unbolted the motor mounts and then jacked the engine up by putting a jack and a block of wood under the tranny. Came right out but if I had to do it again I'd pull the motor.. Way easier
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