Something a little different: 5 lug to 8 lug!

[Pillow]

I searched, honest... Most people are ripping up 8 lugs to go 5 lug though, so the posts are no help at all.

Anyone else tried to go from 5 lug to 8 lug?

What all is entailed in the conversion?
- Rear axles
- Rear brakes
- Front spindle???
- Front hub and rotor
- Front calipers?

Any help is appreciated!!!

The 6.2 diesel conversion is coming together slowly. More on that later. Still collecting parts.

I plan to set this up for towing the '48 Mansion trailer... And a girl friends '68 C-10 drag truck!!! :P

Thanks!

[kwmech]

I've done a couple of trucks to get some decent stopping power with a larger engine. So, yes I did a complete rear axle assy and swapped out the lower control arm for the larger ball joint and changed the top ball joint, steering comes into play for the correct tie rod ends also

[SS Tim]

Start with a C20 or 30.
The frame is the basis for the whole truck, adding heavier axles and brakes still does not address bending and twist resistance.
That '48 Spartan is probably more of a park model than an actual travel trailer. What does it weigh loaded? What about tongue load? The max recommended GCWR is just at 10K for a C10. The a max trailer recommended weight is 5500lb/700 lb. Really can't see you staying under that with a trailer and a '68. Not to mention the added weight of the diesel swap.

Frame specs.
C10 127" 6.04" height 2.53" flange width 0.156" thick 2.98 section modulus
C20 127" 6.11" height 2.46" flange width 0.194" thick 3.71 section modulus

[Scott>72-GMC]

I have no idea just throwing this out there but if he were to box the frame would that add support? Just a question like I said I'm no expert
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[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Scott>72-GMC

I have no idea just throwing this out there but if he were to box the frame would that add support? Just a question like I said I'm no expert
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Normally, boxing a complete frame is not recommended because it needs to flex. If it can't flex it will eventually crack at stress points

LockDoc

[Scott>72-GMC]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Normally, boxing a complete frame is not recommended because it needs to flex. If it can't flex it will eventually crack at stress points

LockDoc

That makes sence just like a bridge has to flex or anything very structural
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[Pillow]

Good info already!!!

SS Tim, interesting because I thought the frames were the same from the C-20 and C-10s, just different suspensions/brakes.

FWIW the Spartan is 30' and 4800# unloaded, tongue 400#ish. So right at the edge of safe IMO. But it is a traveler! Tandem Axles make it smooth as silk down the superslabs Well normally I use the diesel Suburban to tow which is like nothing is back there.

Maybe it is more than I thought upgrading versus downgrading! LOL

[Pillow]

... The alternative would be some 16" aftermarket wheels with E load 235/85 tires and HD springs all around.

Might be easier...

[Scott>72-GMC]

My uncle and I have both had beefed up half tons later models he used bags on his welding truck. I have hauled a ton in my half before not saying that is good or safe to do regularly
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[Ziegelsteinfaust]

You still wouldn't be rated like a C20 or C30 as far as the DOT is concerned.

Boxing the frame along with reinforcing the cross members would make it stronger the a C20 or C30.

So if I were in your shoes I would get a C20 for towing, and if need be upgrade it for that.

The reason people convert C20's to C10's is just the cost of the truck. Lets say a C10 goes for $3000. You likely could get a comparable looking, and likely more fully loaded C20 for often a $1000 less. I got my 74 C20 for $1000, and anything that ran as good in a C10 usually was a smogger, and cost $1200 more.

[Scott>72-GMC]

I have a c20 and plan on leaving it that cause I like a truck that can do some work I never thought of the price comparison that makes sence
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