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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern california
Posts: 8
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Painless wiring install
Hello, long time listener, first time caller. I’m getting ready to rewire my 67 c10 swb. Had an electrical fire last year that cooled off all the wiring forward of the firewall. Never done this type of work before. Any suggestions for those that have done it before? Thank you for any responses.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Wheatfield IN, USA
Posts: 1,113
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Re: Painless wiring install
Take your time, I prelabeled some of the wires with tape so I didn't have to keep squinting to see what the dam writing on the wire said. Used lots of zip ties to segregate the wires.... its a pain not painless for sure
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1972 K5 Build - plans - LS3-6L80e-One Tons..... 1971 CREWMAX Build.....at body shop for couple more years ![]() |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,470
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Re: Painless wiring install
Unless your truck is highly customized (LS swap, EFI, etc.), my suggestion would be to buy reproductions of the factory harness sections that you need instead of buying a universal kit that requires you to wire everything from scratch. Here are some examples (make sure you select the correct options for your specific truck):
https://www.classicparts.com/1967-En...info/52%2D133/ https://www.classicparts.com/1967-Fr...info/52%2D231/ |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,486
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Re: Painless wiring install
I will second that, but would check to see if American Autowire has the harnesses you need. Their support is second to none.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Orem, Utah
Posts: 7,901
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Re: Painless wiring install
You need space and time. You need space so you can lay out the entire wiring harness and time to do it right. I recommend marine-grade heat shrink at any terminals or connections. I also used blue masking tape to label my wires so I could identify them more easily. If you're planning any electrical upgrades (HEI, electric fans, etc), now is the time to think about wiring for them, even if you're not going to install them for a while.
I like things to look neat when I'm done, so I used split wire sleeves to house everything: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
__________________
I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man. - Thomas Jefferson |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Carlos MN
Posts: 2,042
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Re: Painless wiring install
I've used Painless kits on about 1/2 dozen hot rod projects. Most were LS swaps into something. Used the 21 curcuit universal. When I get the kit I lay the harness out and group the wires together. Back, front and under dash then tape together in groups. I'm less than good with electrical stuff but I've never had a problem.
My only gripe with Painless is that they supply really cheap butt connectors. I toss those in the trash. Then go to Fastenal and get the heat shrink connectors in bulk that have some type of goo inside that melts when you heat shrink them down. Never had a failure. Not knowing your truck plans but I filled the stock junction block firewall hole. Then I moved the Painless fuse block back and fastened it to the panel next to the vent. Really cleans up the fire wall. Then I hid most of the wires going forward and back. |
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#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern california
Posts: 8
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Wow that looks amazing!!!!
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#8 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,486
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Re: Painless wiring install
Quote:
Beautiful engine compartment!
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Northern california
Posts: 8
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Re: Painless wiring install
Thank you for the reply! My truck is stock. I thought of going with the stock harness replacements however my painless kit sat in the garage for months and passed my return period. Thanks again!
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Carlos MN
Posts: 2,042
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Re: Painless wiring install
A little hard to explain but I will do my best. The Painless fuse block doesn't fit the stock 68 fuse block hole. It's bigger. So as I was trying figure out what to do with maybe a cold one in my hand!
So what I did was move fuse block (front and back as a unit) back just enough so the wires going to the front and back could be routed thru the firewall using the Painless supplied round grommet. There really isn't that many wires. The complete Painless fuse block has two mounting bolts that typically go thru the fire wall. In lieu of that I made two "L" brackets that used those two bolt holes and then using sheet metal screws I screwed into the panel up above and in front of the stock air vent hole. I was able to hide the wires behind the wheel well. Both front and back wires follow the frame rails. Sorry no pics. |
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