67 C30 questions

[jmcs426]

My papaw died several years ago and left me and my dad his 1967 C30. It still runs and has 90,000 original miles on it. It only gets driven once or twice a year, so it is a little rusty and has definitely seen better days. We want to get it back in good condition so we can use it more often. I have a landscaping company, and I would like to use it for hauling and towing. My 1/2 pickup made by another American truck company that will not be named just can't handle the big loads like this would be able to.

Please give me any info you may have, and give any advice concerning things I may need to replace or strengthen to make it safe for daily heavy use again. I'm sure there may be some parts that may be rusty and need to be replaced, but I do not not what to look for. I'll attach pictures of the serial number and what not.

I'm 99% sure it has the 283 in it. I'm not sure about axle ratio or anything else. You can tell from the images that my uncle took a paint brush to it several years ago..... Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[In The Ten Ring]

I don't know how to help you here but I do love C30's! Yours has a nice story and I hope you can be successful with it.

You'll learn plenty here and I'm sure the basics would work for you on this one.

1). Does it run? Will it start and drive? Does it stop?

2). If it does those things then you can see what else it does or doesn't do (such as overheating) and then we on the forum can best direct you. In other words, your opening post is much too vague.

Another option would be to see if there is a forum member living close enough to come visit you and have a look at it. I would offer to pay the guy's gasoline to and from and a case of beer and/or dinner.

I'm trying to convince myself that having a panel would really benefit my rental business! I can easily see how a C30 flat bed would be the ticket for a landscaping company.

[LockDoc]

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Safety equipment is always a first priority. Brakes, lights, steering components, & driveline components. I would probably change all fluids, belts, hoses and other rubber based parts. Also inspect the frame closely for rust through or cracks.

LockDoc

[mitchell72]

When you get it running just take it easy. There is no reason why you need to go 60 mph down the road. Just put around and get to know the truck.

ps I love the white bumper up front. most guys opt for a chrome one but yours looks classic, and it matches the grille to boot...

Nice rig, it is a real truck. stick with it. I love the 283 too. wind her out...

[jmcs426]

Thanks for the replies. We had to replace the fuel pump, but it runs now. Sounds really good. We also replaced the plugs and wires and changed the oil. Two of the plugs were original and had never been changed (been on since 66). They didn't want to come out too easily haha. Figured out the breaks don't work though-- at all. Do we just need to replace the cylinders? That's what my dad said we need to do. I just want to make sure. Also, if that is what needs to be replaced, is there a specific kind I should get since it may have some large loads on it sometimes, or will any kind work? I don't know much at all about things like this..... Thanks

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jmcs426

Thanks for the replies. We had to replace the fuel pump, but it runs now. Sounds really good. We also replaced the plugs and wires and changed the oil. Two of the plugs were original and had never been changed (been on since 66). They didn't want to come out too easily haha. Figured out the breaks don't work though-- at all. Do we just need to replace the cylinders? That's what my dad said we need to do. I just want to make sure. Also, if that is what needs to be replaced, is there a specific kind I should get since it may have some large loads on it sometimes, or will any kind work? I don't know much at all about things like this..... Thanks

No way to tell what's up with the brakes until you check the master cylinder on the firewall, check all of the lines, & get the drums off to see what the cylinders and brake shoes look like....

LockDoc

[71swb4x4]

Your engine appears to be a 327 to me. I believe 327's had the oil fill on the intake manifold like that.

Here is mine. I pull the sides when I want to haul concrete, dirt, gravel, etc. I have the sides on for hauling trash and leaves. This weekend we will put the baggers on the mowers and for the next month it will haul several loads of leaves to the dump each week.
The white truck on the trailer was a 75, it had hydroboost brakes. I pulled the complete front brake setup and put it on the 67. That change was huge, it made it very drivable.

[jmcs426]

How can I check to see 283 vs 327? Is it on the engine somewhere?

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by jmcs426

How can I check to see 283 vs 327? Is it on the engine somewhere?

Read this, it will tell you everything you need to know: http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php

[StingRay]

I have a 69 and I can say that once you have it running start looking for a brake upgrade. When I haul heavy with mine I find the brakes are pretty lacking. It has a stock dual diaphragm brake booster. I have a complete set up waiting to go in from an 89. Let me tell you these old trucks will haul. I recently hauled half a dozen loads of gravel. I watched the suspension to see how much travel was left and figured that should be good. It was 13000 pounds gross! That's 3K over GVW. I have a 3.73 in a 14 bolt and with the SM465 it pulled like a freight train and the suspension handled it beautifully. At that weight the brakes definitely felt a little underwhelming. Even at 10K they do not impress.

[jmcs426]

Another question: It has a 156 inch wheelbase. Is that common? everything I've read said they came with 133 inch. Just wondering. Thanks for all the help.

P.S. I am 20 years old, so I have no experience with old vehicles lol. Any information you tell me will be new to me. I appreciate any info you may have. Thanks again

[71swb4x4]

I do think 156" is less common.

[jmcs426]

One last question for the night.. sorry ha

The engine stamp on the front is V0222WA. From what I saw, this means it was made in Flint, Michigan on February 22, and it's either at 1965 283, 1968 307, or 1969 350. The truck is a 1967 from what the code on the door says. So, does this mean the engine has been replaced? If so, how can I know if it is a 283, 307, or 350?

Sorry for all the questions. Thanks

[71swb4x4]

Find the casting number, about 1/3 down this page you can decode it: http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html

The casting number is located on the driver's side, top rear of the engine block.

[Vintage Windmills]

Nice truck, I like how the 157" wheelbases have the strongest frames. they are good candidates for heavy work given that (assuming brakes are upgraded). I may be picking up a 71 157" this fall when I get the ambition to dig it out and get the tons of dirt/gravel off it

[jmcs426]

Casting number says 283 from a 67. I guess the site I was using for the stamp on the front was wrong. Thanks

Can I just get brakes from any newer Chevy 1 ton, or are there only certain years that will work?

[jmcs426]

I've been trying to figure out the rear axle ratio. I can't find the stamp that is supposed to be on the passenger side. It must have too much rust on it to be visible or something. The casting number on the front is 3883378 or 3883379 (it's hard to read through the rust). Does anyone know how to decode this number?

Thanks