Dash Removal on a '98

[Legolas894]

I've got a short in the wiring harness to the lighting control module in my 98. The short causes the courtesy lights to come off and on while driving and activates the door locks too. It's kind of like a haunted truck when you're driving at night. Anyway, my hands are all scratched up trying to reach it from beneath. I can just get my finger tips on it but can't really work on it like this. I tried taking all the front parts off but still can't get to it.

Is removing the whole dash to get to the wiring harness a big job? I wondered about the air bags and stuff.

Thanks

[67olds]

Taking out a dash in anything is a big job. Ive done it in a lot of cars and its a big job even when i'm not saving anything. My preferred method is to smash out the windshield and proceed to do the same to the dash with a sledge.... but whatever works!

[1badgmc]

I helped a friend pull a dash out of a '98 Suburban a couple months ago. He was just after the dash. The truck was a parts truck. Once we got the dash loose, we just started hacking through the wiring harness to get it out.

I can't remember exactly where the bolts were, but there are only a few bolts actually holding the dash in. Once you get them loose and loosen the steering column so you can drop it down, you can then rotate the entire dash forward to give you a little better access to the wiring harness on the back side.

[corbinc]

I just put in a new dash on the 91. It really wasn't that bad. There are several screws around the perimeter of the dash, two large screws in the kick panels, and the part of the dash where the instrument cluster goes there are grommets. The only other pain in the arse is the wire management trays which must be cracked open to remove the wires so the dash will pull back.

[1badgmc]

Originally Posted by corbinc

I just put in a new dash on the 91. It really wasn't that bad. There are several screws around the perimeter of the dash, two large screws in the kick panels, and the part of the dash where the instrument cluster goes there are grommets. The only other pain in the arse is the wire management trays which must be cracked open to remove the wires so the dash will pull back.

There's a bit of a difference between a '91 and a '98. Trust me. There's a TON more wiring in the '98.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by 1badgmc

I helped a friend pull a dash out of a '98 Suburban a couple months ago. He was just after the dash. The truck was a parts truck. Once we got the dash loose, we just started hacking through the wiring harness to get it out.

I can't remember exactly where the bolts were, but there are only a few bolts actually holding the dash in. Once you get them loose and loosen the steering column so you can drop it down, you can then rotate the entire dash forward to give you a little better access to the wiring harness on the back side.

I feel like hacking it right now! I'll look to see how many bolts have to come out.

Thanks

[JWall]

Have you replaced the door pin switches?

[jrr344]

DONT PULL THE DASH look in the drivers side kick panel there should be some wires rubbing on the where it goes through the fender check it before you pull the dash.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by JWall

Have you replaced the door pin switches?

No but I have checked them out. When I move the wiring harness, the power locks activate and the lights come on. This indicates a short to ground. The harness crosses a metal support that's fairly sharp and I can see the harness hitting it. Just a PITA to get at.

[BigBlocksRule]

Don't forget the screws at the defrost outlet, they'll sure screw up a dash if you try to pull it with 'em in place.
IIRC, there's a couple screws/bolts around the steering column brace and a couple under the glove compartment. There's a downward facing "hook" on each end than hangs over a pin on each side of the cab. Once it feels loose and moves fairly easily, you have to pull/push it up to clear those pins, it'll kinda rotate around 'em. The "convenience center" where the wires go thru the dash on the driver's side will come loose after you remove the torx screw from the other side of the firewall, it's in the center of the white wiring thingy. If you get to a point and aren't sure, email me at 81vette4speed@suddenlink.net, I have a loose dash I can look at to see if there's anything else you need to look for. I'd hate for you to cause more problems than you solve - been there, done that, lost my shirt.
Good luck!

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

Don't forget the screws at the defrost outlet, they'll sure screw up a dash if you try to pull it with 'em in place.
IIRC, there's a couple screws/bolts around the steering column brace and a couple under the glove compartment. There's a downward facing "hook" on each end than hangs over a pin on each side of the cab. Once it feels loose and moves fairly easily, you have to pull/push it up to clear those pins, it'll kinda rotate around 'em. The "convenience center" where the wires go thru the dash on the driver's side will come loose after you remove the torx screw from the other side of the firewall, it's in the center of the white wiring thingy. If you get to a point and aren't sure, email me at 81vette4speed@suddenlink.net, I have a loose dash I can look at to see if there's anything else you need to look for. I'd hate for you to cause more problems than you solve - been there, done that, lost my shirt.
Good luck!

I appreciate that a lot. I hate that I can see the problem but can't get to it. I'm hoping it warms up a bit. We're expecting snow tonight and I have to work in the driveway. If it's nice this weekend, I'll start again. When I took the gauge unit out, I saw the ABS light was pulled out. The bulb in the headlamp switch is out and there's a couple out in the radio too. It's one dark truck at night with the fuse pulled.

Take care.

[jrr344]

I had the same exact problem on my 98 suburban and started to pull the dash because when I wiggled the wire my door locks would lock and unlock and the interior lights would stay on, when I pull the driver side kick panel to remove the dash the wires had rubbed and grounded on where it goes through the drivers fender on the inside.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by jrr344

I had the same exact problem on my 98 suburban and started to pull the dash because when I wiggled the wire my door locks would lock and unlock and the interior lights would stay on, when I pull the driver side kick panel to remove the dash the wires had rubbed and grounded on where it goes through the drivers fender on the inside.

Hey-I'll take the kickpanel off anyway just to make sure. It's still a lot easier than pulling the whole dash out. Snowing like crazy today so I'll have to do it when it warms up a little. So much for spring!