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Old 07-10-2014, 01:24 PM   #1
73737373
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Brake Bleeding

Read thru a bunch of posts this AM....did not find mention of my problem.

72 LWB, 402, power brakes. Truck sat for about 10 years.

1. We both know how to properly bleed brakes using the 2 man method.

2. Put on new master cylinder and started 2 man brake bleeding process at pass side rear wheel.

3. Could only get a small dribble of brake fluid to come out no matter how many times I pumped the brakes.

4. Moved to driver side rear, not much better results.

5. Despite pumping the brake at least 100 times, never got any pressure, nor more than a dribble from the rear wheel cylinders.

Brake lines/hoses appeared intact as we did not see any seepage.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:35 PM   #2
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Re: Brake Bleeding

My rear brake lines were corroded on the inside. Try breaking the line at the tee in the rear and see if you get good flow from there.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:42 PM   #3
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Re: Brake Bleeding

That's my next COA, although probably should just go buy a set of new lines....42 year old truck....and save a lot of time.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:44 PM   #4
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder before you installed it?

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Old 07-10-2014, 01:53 PM   #5
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Did you set the proportioning valve in the correct position for bleeding?
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:02 PM   #6
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Yes, bench bled MC.

Did not remove rubber cover and hold in the little green nipple on the prop valve.
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Old 07-10-2014, 03:59 PM   #7
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Re: Brake Bleeding

My rubber hose in the rear was bad in my causing mine to do that
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Old 07-10-2014, 05:29 PM   #8
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Re: Brake Bleeding

you know how to bleed braks do you?? read up the factory service manual tells you how to do it properly by clamping the pin in the combo valve
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:26 PM   #9
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Quote:
Originally Posted by 73737373 View Post
Read thru a bunch of posts this AM....did not find mention of my problem.

72 LWB, 402, power brakes. Truck sat for about 10 years.

1. We both know how to properly bleed brakes using the 2 man method.

2. Put on new master cylinder and started 2 man brake bleeding process at pass side rear wheel.

3. Could only get a small dribble of brake fluid to come out no matter how many times I pumped the brakes.

4. Moved to driver side rear, not much better results.

5. Despite pumping the brake at least 100 times, never got any pressure, nor more than a dribble from the rear wheel cylinders.

Brake lines/hoses appeared intact as we did not see any seepage.
I had the same type of problem. BTW The furthest line is not rear passenger, its rear driver by brake line distance. First though, go back and bench bleed your MC. Do one line at a time from the MC, hold your finger over the port - buddy pumps brake - air pushes your finger and escapes, repeat until fluid come out. Do the next line just as your did the first. Once you know your MC is primed, then move to rear drivers side. I wrote a FAQ and it is posted in that section.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:30 PM   #10
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Re: Brake Bleeding

[QUOTE=73737373;6755612]Read thru a bunch of posts this AM....did not find mention of my problem.

72 LWB, 402, power brakes. Truck sat for about 10 years.



Could be the prop valve, but sitting 10 yrs I bet it's a blockage. Take it loose above the rear hose if it will, bet it fires out of there.. Keep us updated. Good luck
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:34 AM   #11
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Re: Brake Bleeding

I had the same problem on a Jimmy I swapped the axles from a 3/4t Suburban to. The Suburban was mine and I knew the brakes were good when parked. I had replaced the flex lines with new braided stainless,so I knew hoses were good. I could never get much if any pressure in the back. After a new master cylinder I finally decided it must be the rear wheel cylinders. After all,the Suburban had been sitting 5 years. Yep,that was it! These hydraulic parts go bad with sitting and I was still stuck on "I know those brakes were good on the Suburban"
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