Running Hot

[c10Mang]

Hey guys,

I know that it is summer time and all, but my ride has been running hot. I just wanted to know if they're anyways to make it run cooler? I might be the tranny too. It had a 283 in it now I have 350 three on tree. Take a look a the radiator:

I know this is kinda vague..

Also, could guys tell me what transmission I have? I know these pix suck but one you guys might now what it is?

Thanks!!

[Chevy Fleetside]

Try putting a thermostate that opens ealier. You might have a 195º in there so put in a 180º. If you take it out it should have the degree on it. You might also want to look inside the radiator and make sure your cooling tubes are not clogged. I dought the tranny has anything to do with it. You could also pull the header hose from the intake and make sure there isn't an air bubble in there not allowing coolant in. It will allow the air to leave if you remove it. It can't hurt but it can make a mess..

[salazar44]

I know you said you just put the motor in. I had the same problem with a motor i just put in. I was running hot and tried all the techniques. For some mysterious reason all of a sudden it ran and a perfect 190. I have an aftermarket autometer gauge installed running from the block.

What is hot to you? Do you have a number or just going off the stock gauge?

However, I too all of a sudden started running hot again. I was thinking maybe the copper wire was touching the exhaust? Dont know if that would affect it.

[blackedoutharley]

I have the same radiator in my '65.... when I built the motor I had the radiator recored by a local shop with a 3 row core vs. the original 2 row. I also run a 180 thermostat.. It can heat up while idling but while moving there is no problem.

Yes, it gets hot in this part of the country during the summer months.

With these things and that fan shroud you have I can't see where you should have any problems.

I too run an Autometer gauge (mechanical) from the drivers side head for more accurate temp reading.

[GMC65Guy]

You could always try Royal Purple Ice.. I've heard good things

[Chevy Fleetside]

Was the 350 a complete engine? In other words did you not have to bolt up anything from the 283. If you didn't and you used a differnt sensor and not the original, it will show it running hot because they are differnt.

[c10Mang]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Was the 350 a complete engine? In other words did you not have to bolt up anything from the 283. If you didn't and you used a differnt sensor and not the original, it will show it running hot because they are differnt.

Humm. This might be it, well a start at least. I am pretty dang sure the guy that put in the new engine did not put on a new sensor. I mean you can see it in the top pic.

Thanks for all your help guys!

[greg64]

My question would be if you're having overheating problems while moving or only at idle? Also, was the overheating problem present from the first day you fired the 350 or did it not start until the weather heated up?

[c10Mang]

Originally Posted by greg64

My question would be if you're having overheating problems while moving or only at idle? Also, was the overheating problem present from the first day you fired the 350 or did it not start until the weather heated up?

I did not put the engine in. When I got the truck I put in a plug and put on the old sensor. It's get hot while idling. When I am moving it cools down. But it never goes all the way into the right. Pretty dang close though.

[83burban]

Bleed the coolant system. Most of the time when a car overheats while idling (and cools down when driving) it's because there are air bubbles in the coolant lines that prevent the coolant from doing its job effectively.

[64Magoo]

The weirdest thing for me... I installed a built 350 in my '64 with an aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, and OEM replacement waterpump. I have always ran about 1/4 on the temp gauge, but when I ran the 350 it went to about half and there was NOTICEABLE heat pumping out from the "nostrils" on the hood. I couldn't figure it out but it left when I put some nice Accel spark plugs and wires on to go with the 45,000 volt Accel coil I have. I don't know how changing just the wires caused my physical engine bay temp to go down but it did...anyone have any insight on this?

[64c20crewcab]

Originally Posted by 64Magoo

The weirdest thing for me... I installed a built 350 in my '64 with an aluminum radiator, 180 thermostat, and OEM replacement waterpump. I have always ran about 1/4 on the temp gauge, but when I ran the 350 it went to about half and there was NOTICEABLE heat pumping out from the "nostrils" on the hood. I couldn't figure it out but it left when I put some nice Accel spark plugs and wires on to go with the 45,000 volt Accel coil I have. I don't know how changing just the wires caused my physical engine bay temp to go down but it did...anyone have any insight on this?

When ya changed the wires and plugs, did ya adjust timing? Also the you may have had hotter plugs in it before and/or timing was a bit advanced. None the less, it's ok now right.

[64c20crewcab]

Originally Posted by c10Mang

I did not put the engine in. When I got the truck I put in a plug and put on the old sensor. It's get hot while idling. When I am moving it cools down. But it never goes all the way into the right. Pretty dang close though.

Since I only have the stock guages in my rig and dont trust it 100%, I went to PepBoys and bought a small handheld laser temp guage thing. I was told to point it at the lower hose at the water pump note that should be the hottest reading. Then take a reading at the top hose at the rad. This should be cooler. If not thermostat is stuck, pump may be bad or air in cooling system. But in your case, it sounds like the later, ya need to bleed / burp the system. with motor cool enough, pull off the rad cap, start motor. let it warm up, watch the rad opeing for air bubble burps. rev the motor from time to time. it will/may burp a few times not just once. after you think the burping is done, the water/coolant level will drop. so you will have to top off the fluid.

btw, SoCal heat and traffic are hard on our rigs so I 'm running a 160º themostat.

Also you runnin the stock rad after the 283 -350 swap? If so I'd go with new a new rad & fan clutch.

Good luck!

[MacAttack]

Nothing drives me up the wall more than overheating. I’d rather drive on a flat tire - even on the rim, rather than watch that gauge drift into the hot zone - especially when I'm out of my own neighborhood.

I can relate to your story - did a coolant system overhaul on my kid’s 63’ Longbed / Straight 6 and the gauge pegged hot upon the initial fire-up afterward. Never got it above idle, in the driveway, so we didn’t hurt anything - but we learned a valuable lesson:

Always fill the head (or intake manifold water gallery) with coolant prior to putting the thermostat in and putting the housing hose on. Had we driven the old truck on the street and "hoped" the thermostat would open - things could have really been messed up - motor wise. It all worked out for the best, and yes, we did add a straight mechanical gauge.

[Frizzle Fry]

Timing too advanced can cause overheating.

[soba_03]

I'm wondering if it's just running lean. That will make it run hot as well. If it's a new motor I assume it's a carb off the old motor or a new/rebuilt carb might not have the right mixture for the 350, or timing might be off a few degrees. Idle timing runs the motor where it's been set. Once your off idle timing runs off vaccum advance... Maybe I'm completely wrong here I've been up all night...LOL

[salazar44]

my first suggestion would be to get a gauge that actually tells you a temperature. Dont rely on a gauge with just markings C___|___H you know what i mean.

[Anthony Fremont]

Originally Posted by salazar44

my first suggestion would be to get a gauge that actually tells you a temperature. Dont rely on a gauge with just markings C___|___H you know what i mean.

Ding ding ding ding dingggg give that man a cigar; that's precisely what the OP needs to do. I have an infrared temp reader and it works excellent at measuring the head temperatures. I've used it to compare against my Summit gauges and they agree with each other within a couple of degrees.

I was lucky enough to receive a three core radiator with my truck, I think it's the original for the 305 V6 that came in it. I have run my truck for over a half hour on a hot day (95F) in my driveway while tinkering with it. I have an electric pusher fan mounted in front that cycled on an off, but the temp gauge (and my IR reader) said that nothing ever got over 185F using a 180F thermostat. I haven't actually driven my truck anywhere yet, but it does run now. It might be different once I get it on the road, but I certainly hope not. IMO electric fans rock.

[billydonn]

Originally Posted by Anthony Fremont

Ding ding ding ding dingggg give that man a cigar; that's precisely what the OP needs to do. I have an infrared temp reader and it works excellent at measuring the head temperatures. I've used it to compare against my Summit gauges and they agree with each other within a couple of degrees.

I was lucky enough to receive a three core radiator with my truck, I think it's the original for the 305 V6 that came in it. I have run my truck for over a half hour on a hot day (95F) in my driveway while tinkering with it. I have an electric pusher fan mounted in front that cycled on an off, but the temp gauge (and my IR reader) said that nothing ever got over 185F using a 180F thermostat. I haven't actually driven my truck anywhere yet, but it does run now. It might be different once I get it on the road, but I certainly hope not. IMO electric fans rock.

The heat guns are excellent and not expensive! And a guage with numbers is recommended!

[Chevy Fleetside]

You could always get one of these http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku . I wouldn't order it from summit unless you are getting more stuff. You don't want to pay $9.95 handling on this small part. Maybe your local parts store can get it. How accurate are they? Heck I don't know.. You will have to watch it as the temp will change when the water circulates. Also I am not sure if you can use a 13psi cap. You might need a 7psi cap. They do have both that I know of though.

[ValveTubeHead]

Originally Posted by c10Mang

Also, could guys tell me what transmission I have? I know these pix suck but one you guys might now what it is?

Thanks!!

non-synchro 1st, 4bolt side cover?...muncie sm318