Remote Batt. Disconnect

[BRL]

Anybody tried one of these yet?

Can't seem to find any posts but that doesn't mean there aren't any out here someplace.
I would like to see them be built stronger like in the USA for example, and at first the thing was giving me trouble and I was about to remove it, but that's when I discovered I hadn't fully tightened the screws down yet.
So far so good after a few months.

[dmjlambert]

That looks like a lot of wires, and a lot of stuff connected to other stuff. Many connections, many bolts. I'm curious. What does all that stuff accomplish?

[BRL]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

That looks like a lot of wires, and a lot of stuff connected to other stuff. Many connections, many bolts. I'm curious. What does all that stuff accomplish?

Oh it gets even better!

I don't remember what half that stuff does after 30 years of ownership and I suppose I could have come up with a fuse block at some point, but everything works great so if it ain't broke I ain't fixin' it!

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by BRL

Oh it gets even better!

I don't remember what half that stuff does after 30 years of ownership and I suppose I could have come up with a fuse block at some point, but everything works great so if it ain't broke I ain't fixin' it!

I Like it.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

I Like it.

Getter-Done you're my new bestest buddy on this forum, you seem to understand me

As for the rest of you, Amazon just delivered a bus bar distribution block and I'll try to clean up this mess even though I'm immune to peer pressure.

[RustyPile]

Maybe something like this. Zoom in for a better look.

[dmjlambert]

All I can think of to say is Gee Willikers.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by BRL

Anybody tried one of these yet?

No, and there's a reason why...

[franken]

Remote battery disconnect issue while having a local nightmare and unwilling to fix it. Ok, you're fine.

[BRL]

There's nothing to fix, everything on that truck works just fine, and if the dang remote disconnect unit quits, all I have to do is remove the negative ground cable clamp from that unit and plug it back directly onto the negative battery post.

A simple one or two minute job tops.

...more like less than 30 seconds, I have the tool boxes bolted in right there under the hood beside it.

[GOPAPA]

I have one right now to install in my truck ,, it has a clicker to go on my key chain and I want it because I unhook the battery at home or out some where almost each time I drive the truck when I am aways in distance ,, I figure it is another thing to have along with my locking doors to make it a bit harder to theft . I am going to add longer wires and mount it on the side wall next to the battery .. I like it ..

[BRL]

Yea it just amazes me that the thing has held up as well as it has already, I'm used to believing that a car battery disconnect switch should be seriously built like a massive breaker switch in a power substation or something, but only time will tell if it will hold up or not.

I do like the concept though.

[dmjlambert]

That bus bar distribution block sure accommodates lots of wires, and a lot of stuff connected to other stuff. Many connections, many screws. Gee Willikers!

[BRL]

yea, well, I need to supply power to the shower hot water heater and the SETI radar satellite dish.

[BRL]

OK I cleaned up the mess somewhat.

Now it looks so good I'm thinking of removing the hood and driving around town to show it off.

The reason I bolted in toolboxes under the hood is because I have stereo amplifiers under both bucket seats, that's where all those wires were headed.

You install a powerful stereo system in a tiny truck cab and it'll blow your head off!

I was young once.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

That bus bar distribution block sure accommodates lots of wires, and a lot of stuff connected to other stuff. Many connections, many screws. Gee Willikers!

Apparently I have the same nightmare going on under the dash.
It all works.
So I was thinking of putting a kill switch under the dash and decided that drilling a hole in that plate shown would work, so I removed the 4 bolts that attaches it.
Nope, decided on a different location so I went to reinstall the plate...
Somehow the two screw holes towards the driver's seat became misaligned and its a darn good thing the bolts come to a point because that task wore me out!

Had to take a nap afterwards, I think I had an easier time bolting in the motor.

[Getter-Done]

They make a under dash creeper now.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Cr...0BHMHT2V9?th=1

[dmjlambert]

I had the same experience with that plate, the 4 bolt holes did not align worth a damn. I could not believe I removed the plate with such ease, and it was hell to put back on. I had it off before and don't remember it being difficult to put back on. I would imagine there is some clever trick to it we don't know.

[BRL]

Yea I couldn't line up those holes, even using a Phillips screwdriver shank as a crowbar in an attempt to line up the holes, nothing budged.

That plate assy. did have a cluch pedal at one time but I removed it and trashed it (oops!) if that makes it any difference, but the whole experience was just ridiculous.

At least I know it wasn't just my experience alone, thanks for that.

That under dash creeper looks a lot like a stretcher, I could have used a stretcher when I was done.

[franken]

A battery disconnect is usually thought of as completely disconnecting the battery from the vehicle. Disconnecting just the low current stuff can be done with a relay and a bus much like the one posted. Squares had a nice one if there's a scrapyard around.

[Tom]

I can see remotely disconnecting the battery, but once that's done you'd have to manually reconnect it, since there is no power to make it auto. So I don't see the point.
I put a boat dual battery switch in my truck when I went dual batteries. I can turn both batt's off with the dial.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by Tom

...but once that's done you'd have to manually reconnect it, since there is no power to make it auto. So I don't see the point...

Actually that switch is still grounded to the battery negative post directly so the remote control still works to shut everything else's ground off.
Also I still have the battery tender negitive wire connected directly to the battery post so I can still maintain a full charge even with the disconnect activated.
Yea I know it sounds strange and hard to explain but the unit is still working as intended.

[truckin 79]

Why not just go with the simple route and use this, I did simple and easy. I use a large carabiner to attach to key ring when not on the truck

[BRL]

Or just use this.
Step out of the truck, walk away, press a button and the power is shut off.
No need to pop the hood in the middle of a parking lot every time you want to disable or enable the electric.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by BRL

Or just use this.
Step out of the truck, walk away, press a button and the power is shut off.
No need to pop the hood in the middle of a parking lot every time you want to disable or enable the electric.

A Great Member that use to frequent this forum used these on his Golf carts.

I have yet to purchase one.

Most of these have Great Reviews.