frame welding

[1great68]

I need to weld a washer around my front shock mount hole.Is a lincoln 110 strong enough for that.I just tried it and it didn't hold very well, do you think the welder or is it the fact i don't know how to weld.

[dastuck]

Are you running flux or gas? Flux welds hotter. Depending on the amperage of your welder you shouldnt have any problem. There will be many opinions on weather a 110 welder has enough heat penetration to weld on a frame. Depending on the welder and the welders skill a 110 can do the job. I have shortened my frame using a 110 welder running .35 flux core and had plenty of heat penetration for the job.

[myoldchevytruck]

Sure, that will be fine. I have the same welder. Question, are you using gas (argon/co2) or flux cored wire. Gas Welding will give you better penetration and most definetly a cleaner weld. You should have no problem welding up to 1/4 inch. Just go slow and make sure you work is clean before you start.

Good Luck

Harry

[corn]

Originally Posted by myoldchevytruck

Sure, that will be fine. I have the same welder. Question, are you using gas (argon/co2) or flux cored wire. Gas Welding will give you better penetration and most definetly a cleaner weld. You should have no problem welding up to 1/4 inch. Just go slow and make sure you work is clean before you start.

Good Luck

Harry

Flux core actually welds hotter & gives better penetration. The hollow wire is like a straw & lets the heat build higher. You are right about gas being cleaner. Flux is pretty nasty looking before cleanup...

[myoldchevytruck]

Yeah Corn, It is more of a mess. Basically, flux core wire with a mig machine is like stick welding only with continuos wire.

[1great68]

I have .030 wire that came with it when i bought it and no gas.

[myoldchevytruck]

That's fine. With the 110, the key thing is to take it slow.

[dastuck]

Slow is the key. I use the C method when i weld. Wich is continuously making C's while welding. I have never taken a welding class just learned from friends and trial and error but with practice you should be able to get decent at it. Here is my build thread that shows frame welds toward the end of the thread. This is using .35 flux core and a 110v lincoln.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=260028&page=2

[myoldchevytruck]

dastuck,

nice job on the frame. I like the diamond weld, very clean. Seen the welder in the background, I have the same one.

[dastuck]

Thanks myoldchevytruck. This is the first time ive ever tackled a project of this sort. That lincoln does well I need to swap to gas but have gotten used to flux core and dont have any complaints thus far except maybe a little extra cleaning afterward.

[myoldchevytruck]

true

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by dastuck

Slow is the key. I use the C method when i weld. Wich is continuously making C's while welding. I have never taken a welding class just learned from friends and trial and error but with practice you should be able to get decent at it. Here is my build thread that shows frame welds toward the end of the thread. This is using .35 flux core and a 110v lincoln.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=260028&page=2

I prefer the C or U method (you can go in both directions ) when filling in gaps, basically just something you'll have to do when your just sticking some metal together that might not necessarily be structual.

I'll tell you what i've learned from experience and you can take it however you please. When welding the frame i'm sure you have your pieces of metal pretty close together and I doubt there is much of a gap so I don't prefer the C method if there is not a gap. When it's something structual you don't want to move around, you want to weld in a straight line and join the metal like that. When you move around you allow slag (i'm guessing flux core wire has some slag like stick welding) and air pockets to form throughout the weld making it weaker than if you were to just stick it in a straight line. The key is to watch the puddle keep it consistent.

I work for Union Pacific and I do alot of welding all day so I get to practice these techniques often and they work for me. Obviously trains are built with some thick metal and it gets abused so it needs to hold and these are just some things i've learned.

[Robznob11]

well i cut off the front of my frame and rewelded it lower i have a basic lincolin flux welder the cheapest one they make, ive never had welding classes but i bought the monster garage book on how to weld with all welders, this is what it says on any butt weld there should be a gap for good penatration if not you will lay a cold weld on the out side of the metal unless you have a bad a$$ welder, now i also work in the oilfield where hi pressure lines are welded reguarly and the metal is very thick so they bevel the edge and then weld two passes to get good penatration, so since when you cut the frame it is easier to leave no gap so that you can get perfect alignment your best bet is to bevel your edges and weld them up then if nessacary grind them smooth enough that you can put a small diamont shaped plate over the weld and weld it compleatly around, also box in the inside of the frame for further strength, this is how i done mine and my father inlaw hooked the tow truck chains in the front hole of my frame and pulled the whole truck on a incline onto a flat bed tow truck with no problems and yes i like the c method. ive got good enough to do body work with my flux but ill tell you that welder works best on metal the thickness of our frame just crank it all the way up and set your wire speed on 9-10 also the longer you weld non stop the hotter it will get every time you stop and start you create a cold spot so try to make a full pass on each piece, tack welding is only for sheet metal and with these welders you only tack on body panles unless you want big ugly holes

[Jtrux]

Rob your right. I don't use anything but stick welders here at work and they are some bad machines so i'm able to really penetrate pretty deep so leaving a gap is not a concern for me cuz i burn right through and welde it up solid.

You made some good points.

[muddbugg72]

Originally Posted by 1great68

I have .030 wire that came with it when i bought it and no gas.

1great68
i do not believe that the wire that comes with these machines is flux cored. i have the same machine and there is one way to wire it for gas and one for flux cored. good luck.

[68K20 x Drill]

To start, be sure both parts are rust, oil, and coating free.
While a continuous weld may seem like the way, it can also warp the piece pretty badly. just another factor to think about.

[Tx Firefighter]

I've done Mustang II and clip install on street rod frames with my Lincoln 110 welder. I use 75/25 gas.

The trick to super strong penetration is to have your wife or helper put on an extra hood and preheat the area ahead of where you're welding with a torch. This makes the welder have to put less heat out to get the same results. It makes the welder seem "bigger".

You can even use a portable bernz-o-matic torch from the hardware store (20 bucks).

[Old Chevy Mech]

My thoughts on welding are that (and this is just my opinion) is when welding a frame you dont want alot of heat due to the type of steel thats in a frame. I have seen arc welded frames develop cracks right next to the welds. When mig welded with extensive prep work conducted and thought given to gusset plating the area/style of weld, cracking did bot develop even when near leaf spring shackels. My understanding is that frame steel is mixed to allow alot of flex & give, whereas welding if not conducted properly creates a rigid spot whick will eventually develop cracks. Just a thought. I'd use a mig myself, and keep the heat just enough to get good penetration. Too much heat can draw out the carbon & weaken the area.

Frank

[Tom Vogel]

After reading this thread, I dont know where to begin. My first impression is to just mind my own business, however, I dont want to see someone get hurt. 110 short arc welders were Never intended for structural welding. An expert might be able to safely do it, but its a bad idea for a novice. If I had you here, I could show you short arc welds that look beutiful in every respect but will fall apart if you drop them on the floor (Honest).
If you want to tack a washer, fine. If you want to join a frame... Holy crap. Get some expert help. Just dont want to see someone hurt.

PS These frames are mild carbon steel .03 to .31% carbon. .. you cant draw out the carbon or harden it. Cracking can be caused by cold laps or any number of other welding/fabrication mistakes. This can all be avoided by using the right welder in the right (qualified) hands. Surely you can find someone to help.

[Old Chevy Mech]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

PS These frames are mild carbon steel .03 to .31% carbon. .. you cant draw out the carbon or harden it. Cracking can be caused by cold laps or any number of other welding/fabrication mistakes. This can all be avoided by using the right welder in the right (qualified) hands. Surely you can find someone to help.

Thats good info I didnt know that. Where did you get the info on the frame steel? I also am a firm believer that the steel in these frames is better/purer steel than some of the newer stuff out there.
I had always understood that you didnt want to use too much heat as it negatively affected the steel in the area of the weld. So I have always been extra careful not to allow heat to spread over a large area, and use heat sinks.
Doesent the weld also have to be able to flex like the frame? I know these frames twist & flex and so if a repair is too ridgid, wouldnt that lead to craking right next to the repair?

In any event I havent had a weld, repair or modification fail so I must have been doing something right!

Frank

[passthebuck]

All 1great68 wanted to do is fix the rounded-out shock mounting hole - somebody probally had a loose shock & left it for years and years & drove on it. I had to do the exact same on my 67. I welded a super thick washer over the 2 inch hole in my frame with my sp135 on the highest setting & it worked great - the frame was glowing hot afterwards & I'm sure I got good penetration. I know it's a light welder & I would'nt do this sort of thing all day, but it was able to work higher than it was rated for.

[bad6772]

a GOOD 110 welder (gas) should be fine in the RIGHT hands on anything automotive.....our shop has 20 miller matics all 110 and they are all used to weld structural and non structural steel.... i have taken both my General Motors welding test on 110s , and my ICAR tests was also on 110s these tests were structural and non< oh i passed all four...lol

[dastuck]

Learn the limits of your welder and your own limit. Practice on scrap metal and test your welds after your finished. Place them in a vice and swing away until something gives. This will give you an idea what your welder (or your welding skills) are capable of tackling.

[bad6772]

great point dastuck... and btw you have some very pretty welds.....looks great

[Roman]

You can do wonders with a Lincoln. A Lincoln 135T (MIG) 110v will do you just fine. Not a problem. I suggest using Argon CO2 mix for a clean deep penetration. You can use flux core wire, however it would not be as clean. Here I shortened the frame of my 71 long bed stepside (now a nice short bed). By the way, thanks to the friends here at this forum for the technical help.