Chevy Performance Crate Motors - Dealers That Dyno?

[LuvNLife]

I've been looking at one of the Chevrolet Performance 350/260's for my truck. Since these are flat tappet cam motors, there's always the risk of flattening the cam during break-in or other issues cropping up.

One dealer - PacePerformance - is offering (for an addition charge, of course) to break in and dyno the engine. My heartburn is the upcharge - $650.00. I'm older, and still remember Hershey bars going for 5 cents, so I may be a bit out of touch with reality here, but it seems like a heck of a cost.

Do any of you know of other dealers that perform the same work for a bit less money, or do you think this is a fair charge for the service?

Jerry

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Are you set on a Chevy Performance Crate Motors there are other out there that dyno there motors before they send them out

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

Are you set on a Chevy Performance Crate Motors there are other out there that dyno there motors before they send them out

I've been researching and reading 'til my eyes hurt. There are so many engine builders; I had no idea. It seem like the only ones without a fair bit of negative feedback are what I call "high-end" builders, and the cost goes with it. I was even looking at a Smeding crate 383 that comes darned near turn key (carb, intake, distributor, fuel pump, flexplate, starter, plugs/wires, dynoed and tuned and on and on), but the delivered price is just under $4800. Like I said - I may be living in the Dark Ages when it comes to costs, though...

Jerry

[Chevy_mud_truck]

I know a lot of people look down on blueprint motor but if installed several from them never had a compliant except one it was a 18 year old kid and he was turning that big old 572 at way to many RPM's and broke a rocker arm and twisted a valve spring

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

I know a lot of people look down on blueprint motor but if installed several from them never had a compliant except one it was a 18 year old kid and he was turning that big old 572 at way to many RPM's and broke a rocker arm and twisted a valve spring

The BluePrint is one of the engines I'd looked into. Glad to hear you've had good luck with them. It looks like a couple of years ago they had some quality control issues, but hopefully they've fixed whatever it was.

Jerry

[andrewmp6]

Look around for a local engine builder is what i have done in the past.Rather deal with a guy local if i have a problem vs maybe having to ship stuff back.

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Look around for a local engine builder is what i have done in the past.Rather deal with a guy local if i have a problem vs maybe having to ship stuff back.

Here in the northern VA area, there's just about only one really reputable builder left, and the line is pretty long to get anything done there. Plus, that means me finding a core to work with. They don't have a dyno and they're less than clear about what they will and won't warranty. I think they favor bread and butter work, since that's what pays the bills every week; can't blame 'em...

[cadillac_al]

Maybe the $650 includes an inspection of the cam after being broken in. If not, then they are just putting oil in it like everybody else and running it. If the cam doesn't go flat in that first half hour then they ship it out. It could still deteriorate more over the next couple hundred miles and flatten out later. I'm playing devils advocate here because I haven't lost a flat tappet cam yet and never worry about it. I have always had a fleet of 5 GM V8 vehicles or more. My 2 dead trucks still have good cams in them that I installed many years ago and I plan to re-use them when I need one. I will be robbing one of them next month.

The $650 could also work like extended warranties on washing machines and weed whackers etc. 80-90% never need the warranty so they make enough money from the 90% to cover the 10-15% that have problems. It's just business and they are partly selling peace of mind for nervous folks.

It is possible to ruin a cam if you don't know what you're doing so it could be worth it to have it broken in by an experienced mechanic. In this day and age there is so much info online that anybody that is technically minded should be able to do it on their own. I will say, If you don't have a known good carburetor that is already adjusted to run perfect, you will most likely screw it up. You can't break in an engine with an unknown carb.

I think in the end it boils down to how much wrenching experience you have. If a person really doesn't do much wrenching other than changing some plugs and changing oil, it may be money well spent to have it broken in my the experienced guys. Good luck it's always fun breathing new life into an old faithful vehicle.

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

Maybe the $650 includes an inspection of the cam after being broken in. If not, then they are just putting oil in it like everybody else and running it. If the cam doesn't go flat in that first half hour then they ship it out. It could still deteriorate more over the next couple hundred miles and flatten out later. I'm playing devils advocate here because I haven't lost a flat tappet cam yet and never worry about it. I have always had a fleet of 5 GM V8 vehicles or more. My 2 dead trucks still have good cams in them that I installed many years ago and I plan to re-use them when I need one. I will be robbing one of them next month.

The $650 could also work like extended warranties on washing machines and weed whackers etc. 80-90% never need the warranty so they make enough money from the 90% to cover the 10-15% that have problems. It's just business and they are partly selling peace of mind for nervous folks.

It is possible to ruin a cam if you don't know what you're doing so it could be worth it to have it broken in by an experienced mechanic. In this day and age there is so much info online that anybody that is technically minded should be able to do it on their own. I will say, If you don't have a known good carburetor that is already adjusted to run perfect, you will most likely screw it up. You can't break in an engine with an unknown carb.

I think in the end it boils down to how much wrenching experience you have. If a person really doesn't do much wrenching other than changing some plugs and changing oil, it may be money well spent to have it broken in my the experienced guys. Good luck it's always fun breathing new life into an old faithful vehicle.

It is kind of a catch 22. I only personally know of 2 people that have ever lost cams. The first was a big block that had been detuned for street use, and I know it has some seriously stiff valve springs. I was surprised the cam held up as long as it did. The second is my former mechanic (which is why he's my former mechanic). Stiff valve springs, super aggressive cam because he wanted to listen to it lope, and one day he hydrolocked it with fuel, got it started with 2 bent pushrods, ran it hard and was ticked off the cam went away. LOL.

I can't work on my truck where I live right now, so a darned good shop is going to do the install work for me. They guy has built many a performance engines in his time, but I have to keep telling him I need to run 87 or 89 octane, not Torco. He does know the correct way to break in a cam, though. Plus, all of the accessories on my engine - carb, intake, distributor (with Melonized gear) and so on are virtually new and in perfect condition, so any engine should fire right off.

I agree on the warranty - it's like insurance, in that we all have it, but you never want to use it.

Jerry

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by LuvNLife

I've been looking at one of the Chevrolet Performance 350/260's for my truck. Since these are flat tappet cam motors, there's always the risk of flattening the cam during break-in or other issues cropping up.

I don't see a 350/260 in the 2015 Performance Parts catalog.

I see a 350/290 (part number 19244450). Is that the one you are looking at?

K

[gramps77]

Keith.......
Same one Ive got
http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...52506/10002/-1

[Keith Seymore]

ok, thank you - just wanted to make sure I was on the same page -

K

[79sierra]

$650.00 is a bit high but setting up a dyno is no small task either. They have to do it by the book because if they break it, its on them not you. You may be able to find a roller cam motor that suits your needs and you wouldn't have worry about the break in so much.

[rich weyand]

Get the 350/260. It comes with detailed break-in instructions. Just do what it says, and you'll be fine.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Even the one we had a problom with the sent out a replacement head and gasket set and paid the for the labor /oil /antifreeze no questions asked like said that kid was abusing it bad

[fatgump]

I was very nervous during my break in process. 15 min in the thermostat failed temp went to 230, removed the thermostst fired it back up 20 min later plug wire caught fire, freaking angle plug heads. I am running Dart heads with dual springs and it survived. I used Joe Gibbs BR30 for the break in, changed it with BR30 and drove it hard for 300 miles, not all at at one time, before I changed the oil.

Here is the first drive after break in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8AaDbbHaYU

[Chevy_mud_truck]

A good break-in oil make a world of difference

[MikeB]

That is the last cam in the world that will have issues on break-in. Lobes are old school slow, lift is low, and springs are light.

But as I precaution, I'd use a good break-in oil like Driven BR30 10w30. A whole lot cheaper than $650! After that you can use just about anything, but you might want to consider Mobil 1 High Mileage with 1000 phosphorus / 1100 zinc.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...ecs-guide.ashx

[KQQL IT]

Hydraulic roller cam and rockers, don't have too worry about all that.
Same ish cost as well

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Hydraulic roller cam and rockers, don't have too worry about all that.
Same ish cost as well

Same-ish cost + less wear in the long run.

[tucsonjwt]

How is this different from buying a new vehicle and breaking in the engine according to the owner's manual? New vehicle break in is varying engine speed, keep under 50 mph, etc.

Do new vehicle assembly factories dyno engines prior to installation?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

How is this different from buying a new vehicle and breaking in the engine according to the owner's manual? New vehicle break in is varying engine speed, keep under 50 mph, etc.

Do new vehicle assembly factories dyno engines prior to installation?

New vehicles have roller valvetrains unlike older flat tappet set-ups.

The changes in oil additives has rendered the typical off the shelf oils insufficient when breaking in a new motor w/a flat tappet valvetrain. The additives that used to protect the valvetrain during break-in were banned by the EPA. Roller valvetrains do fine w/o the additives.

No additives in the oil can wipe the hardend surface off the cam lobes & the lifters will wear into the lobes almost immediately.

[Super_Dave]

I was fortunate that I came across a low mileage high nickle content 350. I have a good friend that races the local pro stock circuit and runs a carburetor shop. I took the engine to the local builder that does a lot of the racers engines and races the same pro stock circuit. He punched it out 30 over, did all the machine work and built the heads and assembled the engine. Cost me around $1700 with a full oil pan of Royal Purple to break in the engine.

We installed it, ran it open headers at around 2500 rpm for 20 minutes, cooled down ran another 20 minutes, drove open headers to the exhaust shop and then home. For the next 500 miles, all I had to do was keep the idle up at 1500+ when stopped for longer than a couple minutes. Got tired of throwing it into neutral and holding the gas peddle, so just dialed up the carb to a 1500 idle and after 500 miles, changed oil to Mobile One and went back to the carb shop and dialed it in on all the fancy dancy equipment. Runs like a scalded cat in the dead of summer!

So... if it were me and you had access to a reputable shop (not all of them charge an arm AND a leg) that does work for people who like performance, get yourself a solid, worn out 350 and build it the way you want it with the parts you want... after all, it doesn't cost any more labor to bolt on the parts you want, since they have to bolt on something regardless of the specs, it's just bolts and gaskets. Of course, if you want to spend a weekend with a couple baskets of machined parts, new parts, reconditioned parts, etc, bolting and torquing all the parts yourself, assuming you have all the tools to measure specs, etc.. and save a couple hundred dollars, go for it.

As for break in, it's a piece of German Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream!

[brakenit]

http://paceperformance.com/i-6484922...-4-ton-up.html

I know it doesn't come with a fuel pump mount but for less than the cost of their dyno service it comes with a roller cam already installed, better heads, and higher compression. It would require a different intake and an external fuel pump so that would be something to consider as well.

[rich weyand]

New engines are made to tighter tolerances than engines back in the day. You can also run synthetic oils in them from the get-go, which for a classic engine is a no-no.

Like I said, just get the 350/260, break it in as per instructions, and switch to a full-synth oil with a zinc additive at 3000 miles. It will last you 150,000 miles if not abused.

And for $1460 delivered, that's a lot of value.