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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 189
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Body Work 68 c20 Custom Camper 350
Hey guys!
This is my first restoration and I'm loving my new Chev! Few (A lot of) questions... Dents... Anyone recommend using a stud welder/dent removing kit? Anything work better? Grease... Been using degreaser, wire brushes, and pressure washer. Any other recommendations? Want to make sure it is spotless.. Floor board rust holes... Better to weld in a new piece or buy new floorboard? If I weld in a patch should I cut ALL rust or sand down rust spots? I believe that the new floorboard has a lot of welding required correct? Other recommendations for this? Exhaust pipes... My exhaust pipes are rusted through and I need to replace them. The way they sit now the ends come out before the tires.. Is it better to have them toward the end of the bed or keep them where they are now? Having someone build them for me. Paint.. I want to paint it black but have heard that black shows ALL imperfections. I'm hoping not to have any imperfections so I was hoping to get all recommendations from you guys onto how to prep for paint and what to look for before I do. I know it's A LOT of questions but I really value you guy's opinion! Thanks! |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 189
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Re: Body Work 68 c20 Custom Camper 350
By the way, I have a second bed for the truck so I wont be using the camper special one (With all of the holes). I picked the truck up for only $400 bucks so I'm stoked to dive in with this one! I already have it running like it's brand new! All it needed as new spark plugs and the gas line needed to be blown out.
Excited to hear your thoughts! |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Arlington Washington
Posts: 1,808
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Re: Body Work 68 c20 Custom Camper 350
I can answer part of your floorboard question. I just bought a floor pan patch panel and out of all my patch panels it was by far the worst stamped. It took a lot of work for it to look somewhat decent. There is a lot of welding involved with a complete new pan, also a ton of spot welds to drill. If your cab needs pans, inner rockers and cab supports I'd replace the whole pan. If just the pans need patched I'd make the best out of it with a patch panel, hope this helps.
Ps. I'm no body guy |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marianna Arkansas
Posts: 7,269
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Re: Body Work 68 c20 Custom Camper 350
Go to some of my older or past post out thee nearly 4000 I've done 2000 have been helping out people on prep questions. Now as far as black goes it will show any imperfection but it is possible to get them all out it takes time and lots of it. Now the stud welder any will do here I have the Motor Guard Super deluxe kit [don't know that is what it is called but it is the loaded one with the box and everything.] A man can get by with the gun a puller and a side tool called a stud lever made by a company called Steck. The tool is less than $50 bucks and is a great tool to have to pull dents with. you will also need so adjustable sanding blocks of varying lengths and also very important BOTH epoxy primer AND high build primer. If you get stuck like I said look at some of my old posts and if that doesn't help send me a PM and I'll be glad to help you out. Good luck and happy sanding. Jim
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 189
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Re: Body Work 68 c20 Custom Camper 350
@69ctener Thanks! Unfortunately my floor board supports are completely rusted though.. they are so brittle that pinching it make is fall apart.. I have seen replacements for those but you still think that replacing the whole thing is the best bet huh?
@hugger6933 Ok good to know! I'll do some reading on your page! Thanks for all of the help, I will definitely be using you as a resource. |
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