1969-1972 Chevy/GMC Factory Steering Wheel Restoration

[NewType72]

Alright well I wanted to be sure and document my entire process on restoring my personal steering wheel in my truck in all I probably have far too many pictures within the week and a half doing this little hobby of mine I'd have to say I logged around 18 hours or so into filling, sanding, primering, sanding, painting, sanding dirt out of it and finally painting once more. I don't really want to call it done but for right now I am going to enjoy it and see how well it lasts before completely refinishing the wheel. So here goes my 72 blue to black original wheel restoration process.

1. I started by finding a reasonable wheel on eBay and had it shipped to me from TX.
It was decent but had very major cracks more so then I had hoped but I was into it about 27$ total already so why not see it through



2. I ordered the Master Steering wheel repair kit from Eastwood's online store 55$ ( http://www.eastwood.com/master-steer...tructions.html )because I had to get the damn California special version because of these silly little tree huggers over here any who received this within a week contains the PC-7 two can mix 1:1 ratio that bonds and fills the cracks seen in the first/third picture featured in this thread.

[NewType72]

3: Got after mixing the solution together mind you I have some back ground as my father has shown me all his life and I've been able to watch him do wonders on some really nice cars including my own as far as bodywork/paint goes. ( Brownie points for when he reads my thread right here ) Also invested into a triangular file to get into those cracks first to get a clean surface for the mix to adhere to, I found the pointed end useful for digging the "trench" around the face of the wheel as mine was somewhat missing.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

4. I would definitely advise AGAINST slabbing a ton on in one spot or else you'll create ALOT of unnecessary time sanding for yourself. Go light the first pass and do some rough sanding with 60-80 Grit and see where that puts you then finish it off with a second coat once the first round has been thoroughly checked. Mix in some 120-180 to find those fine-line cracks as you can see in the picture above.
[IMG][/IMG]



5. Finally you can see some progress slap a coat of the pre-prep can (step 3's picture) on there to help the adhesive and be sure to follow the drying directions as exactly as said to ensure the best possible surface for your paint to adhere to and then lay down some thin primer ( I used primer grey Rustoleum spray-able paint ) for your first coat come back the next day by very lightly sanding with a scotch brite course or fine pad (red or grey) then lay a more solid coat down and let that sit for the night or afternoon and check it after a few hours to see how it's handling the surface. (the preperation for paint stages are EXTREMELY CRUCIAL as my dad has always said you can lay down the best of product over anything but if it's prepared carelessly it will look exactly how it was prepared.. sloppy)

[NewType72]

6. As you can see in the latest pictures I have popped in a spray can top into the central hub area to prevent paint from reaching and covering the metal contact ring within and it worked very well as I had not one ounce of paint within the area. Now you can start sanding with 240-300+ range grit depending on how smooth your wheel has come so far it all depends on the starting condition and your time invested in the beginning to get to this point. I found the scotch pads very helpful to smooth out the surface as well as zero steel wool all useful in this process.


7. Finally some color and first round of wetsanding with 600 grit sandpaper and strictly steel wool or grey scotch brite to keep the surface as clean as possibly and prevent costly surface wear thru points like on the ribbing on the backside. Yes sanding will start to wear on you as you get further into the process of the restoration but don't quit now you're almost there just a few more hours and a finished product will appear in front of your eyes.


8. Lay down your first layer of color, I went with Satin Black Rustoleum spray-able paint this round since it was in stock in pile and matched well with my interior. I would suggest to go as light of coverage as possible almost like two guide coats of paint to go over the primer. You can always go back over once its dry and re-sanded to create build-up and durability. I went through quite a few coats here to build up to what I felt as a durable wheel.

[JOJABOY]

More...More...More...
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[NewType72]

9. Last paint sanding stage grab the finest of sanding material to create the slickest finish as possible be sure to keep water going over it as best as possible and try not to burn any holes its too costly at this stage to recreate the whole process over. Once you're completely happen and feel it has the best you can put into it move to the final step.


10. Lay down your final coats evenly and as light as possible this is your final chance so be sure to keep a light finger and keep moving so you wont create any wet-spots that will need to be re-sanded afterwards. do as many as you feel is necessary until you are happy with the finished product. be sure to keep the wheel away from the devilish outdoors as I had a dust storm ruin my finish paint within a minute of spraying and had to re-sand for another day. now let it soak up some heat and also cool for next day or so, so that it can adhere to its best ability, and finally enjoy to the fullest as I do with mine. I felt recreating an original wheel such as this on my truck would not only enhance my skill but show more pride and self-satisfaction into something I restored with my own bare-hands instead of just buying and the best thing I get to use it everyday and see it everyday as I drive my truck can't get rid of those smiles so have fun with it don't make it a chore. Thank you for looking in and I hope even one line from all of this was just somewhat helpful in your venture.

I used Truck Shop of Orange CA,'s Horn Cap Retainer Kit PN #69-06502 to assemble the OEM cap I had in stock to the wheel to finish it off looks wise.

[IMG][/IMG]

[bobs409]

Not to be a downer but I used the same exact stuff to fix a wheel that was in better shape and as soon as the weather changed (temps) I got a hairline crack at most of the repairs.

These 69-72 type wheels seem to be the worst to fix!

Just a heads up. It certainly won't look as bad as it did when you got it but I'd expect some hairline cracks eventually. (sorry)

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by bobs409

Not to be a downer but I used the same exact stuff to fix a wheel that was in better shape and as soon as the weather changed (temps) I got a hairline crack at most of the repairs.

These 69-72 type wheels seem to be the worst to fix!

Just a heads up. It certainly won't look as bad as it did when you got it but I'd expect some hairline cracks eventually. (sorry)

I expect it to have some just like any filler material does which is why i left it mostly infinished for now. Ill see where it holds and then re-do the wheel. Either way to me it's better than a repop wheel. I got the chance to feel one and you could take the top of the wheel and push it in and out its so flimsy. Even mine won't do thatand its missing half of the main material
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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by NewType72

I expect it to have some just like any filler material does which is why i left it mostly infinished for now. Ill see where it holds and then re-do the wheel. Either way to me it's better than a repop wheel. I got the chance to feel one and you could take the top of the wheel and push it in and out its so flimsy. Even mine won't do thatand its missing half of the main material
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Hey Dylan, Looks good we'll just have to wait and see but here in Cali we don't have the extremy temp differences that alot other states have

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Hey Dylan, Looks good we'll just have to wait and see but here in Cali we don't have the extremy temp differences that alot other states have

That is very true and she's a garaged truck every night but sees daylight everyday so it'll be a toss up on if the weather will factor in. At least there's one more thread for future users to look into before putting down their hard earned money on something they like or dislike. With me I'd put this restoration at costing me barely over 100$ mostly because I had a bunch of product already but either way that's still half of a repop wheel and from the looks will stay together a lot better than the flimsy versions.
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[72smoker]

Nice job on the wheel looks good.

[jorgensensc]

Thank you for sharing. You did a great job on that wheel. You have changed my mind. I have a very nice blue steering wheel, but recently got a satin black tilt column so it looks very funny with it. I was just going to hunt down a black wheel, then sell mine, but I think after reading your thread I will try my hand at painting it. Thanks again!
Shawn
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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Thank you for sharing. You did a great job on that wheel. You have changed my mind. I have a very nice blue steering wheel, but recently got a satin black tilt column so it looks very funny with it. I was just going to hunt down a black wheel, then sell mine, but I think after reading your thread I will try my hand at painting it. Thanks again!
Shawn
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Dang, I want a blue one

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Thank you for sharing. You did a great job on that wheel. You have changed my mind. I have a very nice blue steering wheel, but recently got a satin black tilt column so it looks very funny with it. I was just going to hunt down a black wheel, then sell mine, but I think after reading your thread I will try my hand at painting it. Thanks again!
Shawn
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Awesome! I'm so glad my work and documentation was helpful in your decision to restore your own wheel. If you have any questions ask away.
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[70chev383]

nice work!! I have been looking around for a product that well act the same as the original meterial on the wheel. i tried useing jb weld putty, i got a few of the cracks filled then left it for about a month and it cracked.
but great job! and thanks for the info!
- Andrew

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by 70chev383

nice work!! I have been looking around for a product that well act the same as the original meterial on the wheel. i tried useing jb weld putty, i got a few of the cracks filled then left it for about a month and it cracked.
but great job! and thanks for the info!
- Andrew

That's what I heard about JB Weld as well so at least we can narrow down ways to fix them as we collect different stories on this process. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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[NewType72]

Well it's lasted me a couple months now and I've become irritable with a few issues it has at this point. The hardener didn't seal correctly ontop of the hub portion and it cracked through the paint and it had a lot of other minor cracks throughout the wheel itself so I've decide to completely re-do it.

I've already begun sanding and even replaced hub areas filler so that its drying and ready for me to sand tonight. Think I may need to stay thick this time so that it won't crack through. Other areas were fine but it may have had a bad base to start with.

It does get gummy when in the heat and I'm looking for a paint that won't re-produce that same effect. Something along the lines of SEM paint since that's what most interiors get I.e. door panels. So is there any feedback there? Or should I get the body work done and get it professionally sprayed??
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[TBONE1964]

Nice Job on the wheel restoration. I am also doing a 67/68 restoration and bought the same eastwood kit you have. I think any product needs a lot of time to cure before another product is applied over the top of it. What I mean is that if you are getting cracks, it may be because the epoxy has not had enough cure time before the primer is applied. I am not sure if this is true with epoxy but it is with plastic filler (bondo).

It is also worth noting that the original cracks need to be completely removed or the chance of a crack coming back is increased.

With all of that said, I think you may want to wait a while longer between steps and give the epoxy time to completly cure. The thicker it is, the longer it will take.

Good luck and I will be watching this to see how you do.

[Ol Blue K20]

probably should use an automotive paint with a hardener in it....maybe
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[NewType72]

Thank you Tbone I'm going to not rush it this time and take my slow pace and be thorough it should be easier since I know what it's capable of looking like now.

Will definitely look into gettin it primed and painted by either my dad or a good friend of ours.
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[NewType72]

I should have pictures up tonight of the process restarting this project of mine. Stay tuned
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[special-K]

This is the best way to do it. I've seen some just use bondo and call that a restoration. You can imagine how that will (I should say won't) hold up. You can buy PC-7 for a lot less than that Eastwood kit and it's probably exactly what they are giving you. Eastwood basically sells re-labled products you can buy elsewhere for less. I have wondered about using material from another wheel to "weld" the cracks,then epoxy,then bondo if necessary. The issue here is separation. I've been successful at welding like plastics with a soldering gun before. One jib was a water tank in the camper on my old '71. The plastic back then was parafin-based and no adhesive will work. I cut about 1/4" off the neck,and used that the weld the crack where the neck went into the tank (all molded in one piece). The hand pump has to be able to pressurize the tank to work...and it did,for many years after.

Edit: Oops! I see Eastwood does give you PC-7. But you can still get all that cheaper elsewhere

[NewType72]

Originally Posted by special-K

This is the best way to do it. I've seen some just use bondo and call that a restoration. You can imagine how that will (I should say won't) hold up. You can buy PC-7 for a lot less than that Eastwood kit and it's probably exactly what they are giving you. Eastwood basically sells re-labled products you can buy elsewhere for less. I have wondered about using material from another wheel to "weld" the cracks,then epoxy,then bondo if necessary. The issue here is separation. I've been successful at welding like plastics with a soldering gun before. One jib was a water tank in the camper on my old '71. The plastic back then was parafin-based and no adhesive will work. I cut about 1/4" off the neck,and used that the weld the crack where the neck went into the tank (all molded in one piece). The hand pump has to be able to pressurize the tank to work...and it did,for many years after.

You're absolutely right in all of this. I believe I'll grab some pictures of the store that sells this product for cheaper as well. But maybe when I have more time. I also thought of this as well to take pieces from my other wheel but seeing as it was in MUCH worse condition. I did notice that the cracks I did full weren't themselves affected just simply the surface where I either sanded too low to where it cracked the paint or that the surface was not prepped correctly from the beginning as it would pull right off. I'll be sure to keep this round much cleaner. Also decided to prime and paint with actual automotive paint this time.
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[sboris]

Definitely interested in all this. I'm going to do a 68 wheel. The material in the later 69 and up wheels seems different. Any input on this? Great job by the way Newtype72
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[NewType72]

Originally Posted by sboris

Definitely interested in all this. I'm going to do a 68 wheel. The material in the later 69 and up wheels seems different. Any input on this? Great job by the way Newtype72
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I myself have never handled a 67-68 wheel though I wish I could find one they do look really great in any truck and I believe that they are a different material the 69-72's seem to have a "softer" plastic opposed to the early wheels which seem to last much longer with their "harder" plastic. I wouldn't quote that because again I've never got to mess with one before. And thank you very much I appreciate all of the knowledge and support this forum brings so It drives me to do nice little write-ups like this for the young ones like me coming into this game.
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[special-K]

The 69-72 wheels are a different material than earlier wheels. 67/68s are the same as years prior and in '73 they changed material again. I believe 69-72s are a type of vinyl.