![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dresden, OH
Posts: 2
|
Power window conversion
First off I have been a member for a little while and have been collecting information for the rebuilding my 1977 Big 10. I bought this as somebody's forgotten project and have been gathering up parts and ideas from here until I get started on it. Don't worry I'll take plenty of pics and I'm sure I'll have more questions.
Now on to my question. I would like to convert to power windows and locks. I have searched but couldn't find an answer. Does it matter if I use a kit out of 81 and newer truck versus one from an 80 an older? I know the door panels are different and I have to rewire my truck anyways so that's not a problem either. I was just wondering if the inside of the doors had any changes throughout the year. Thanks, Mike. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Collierville, TN
Posts: 38
|
Re: Power window conversion
I have everything to convert my windows and door locks to power someday. I have a 77 and was lucky to find what I needed from a 77. I don't know if there is a difference in the regulator hardware in the door between pre and post 80 power windows but there is a difference in the wiring harness and switches. If the post 80 regulators work then all you really need to worry about is making sure you get the switches and harnesses to match them. The connectors on the wiring harnesses may be different. I pulled a harness from an 83 and it didn't work with my 77 parts. The LMC or Classic Industries catalog might give you a clue about switch and regulator date ranges.
FYI: There are 3 harnesses, one in each door and one that runs across the dash. The door harnesses connect to the dash harness just inside the cab. Pulling them is pretty easy since they are not integrated into the rest of the cab wiring. Also, I don't know what year they changed over but the rubber boot between the cab and door is bolted on my 77 but most of the newer cabs I've seen are held on with rivets so bring a drill or something to pull the boot. If you disconnect the boot from the cab and door then disconnect the door harnesses just inside the cab, you can push the door harness and grommet out of the hole in the cab without damaging either one. Make sure you note the location and remove all relays attached to the harness in the cab too. The cab harness plugs into the fuse block and to a post on the engine side of the firewall. Good luck, Bob |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dresden, OH
Posts: 2
|
Re: Power window conversion
Thanks. The regulators and placement of the door lock actuator is my concern. Everything else I can handle.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|