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#1 |
Some like em' long!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grace, Idaho
Posts: 69
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i was looking at my starter today on my 71, and noticed that besides the one main battery feed wire, that there are also two smaller gauge wires that go to the selenoid also. isnt there only supposed to be one smaller wire to the selenoid? all of the wiring diagrams that i have found show the two wires like what i have, one is from the same circiut as the coil wire, and the other is directly from the fuse block. thanks in advance for help!
chevyforever ![]()
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1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK! |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Stillwater MN
Posts: 1,166
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Mine has two...purple is the circuit that makes the starter operate, and yellow provides power to the coil while cranking.
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69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. ![]() |
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#3 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,285
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the yellow is the coil power for points ignition, it doesnt hurt anything to hook it up to a HEI coil (BAT terminal) as long as you run a 10 gauge wire from the BAT terminal to the IGN UNFUSED also (thats how my truck was when i bought it)
or you can just take out the yellow wire for HEI
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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#4 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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The points system as we all know is designed to run off of reduced voltage. GM discovered that if you increase that voltage, the engine will start easier. This was there solution. The R terminal on your starter relays a full 12 volts to the coil when ever your igniton switch is cranked.
If you have done away with the old points, and have an HEI distibutor in its place, the yellow wire can be deleted all together. There is no reason to keep it, and I can't see it being OK the way blue71 says his was done up. The way blue's is wired, you'd be constantly putting 12 volts to a terminal that is not supposed t be getting it. Even though it isn't doing anything, I can't see it being good for the relay. It might be back feeding it a little....I don't know. Josh...snip that wire. |
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#5 |
Some like em' long!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grace, Idaho
Posts: 69
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at the moment, i have an HEI ignition with the yellow wire plugged into the BAT terminal, and also on one side of the starter, and also for some reason, the previous owner tapped into that same wire for the electric fuel pump! crazy if u ask me. so now heres what i'm gathering from the replys,,, remove yellow wire from starter and HEI coil, and run a bigger gauge wire from an ignition hot unfused from the fuseblock. and also run the wire for the fuel pump to an ignition hot unfused in the fuseblock. please correct me if i am wrong. and thanks for the replys!
chevyforever
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1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK! |
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#6 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,285
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i never said it was GOOD i said it WORKED
![]() (btw-- it was long ago sniped when i put in the 350)
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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#7 |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,285
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come to think of it though, when i took that starter to the shop they said the insides was so fried it couldnt be rebuilt..........
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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chevyforever, your on the right track.
Blue...good deal. i figured you already took care of it. Did they say what was wrong with it? |
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#9 |
Some like em' long!
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grace, Idaho
Posts: 69
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good deal! thanks for all the advice. now when the Painless gets here, i can put it all to work.
chevyforever ![]()
__________________
1971 chevy c10 lwb- 300 hp 350 crate motor, soon to be more with ported and polished 62cc chamber 461 double humps, TH400, 3.73 posi, used to be my uncle's truck 1972 chevy k10 lwb- 350,4 spd, old and tired, dad bought brand new and is now mine 1968 chevy c20 lwb- 327, 4 spd, was originally a 50th anniversary truck 1990 GMC K1500-just my runaround truck 1982 Chevy K10 shortbed, new motor and new paint, another project in the mix of the others. IMPORTS SUCK! |
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#10 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,285
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yeah they did but i cant remember, i just remember something about the bendix being big time messed up and the solinoid havign everythign inside fried/melted
__________________
ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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