Lowering Block apinions

[ck5566]

I went looking for some 2" lowering blocks to lower my 68 C10 just a little bit from some Auto Parts stores and found that the blocks they had were "hollow", not solid. **QUESTION 1- Would the hollow ones stand up as good as the solid ones? While down in Orange County I stopped in at the Truck Shop in Orange and bought 2 front 1" dropped coil springs. **QUESTION 2- I have heard a little bit of controversy on CPP's dropped springs dropping much more then the new spring was bought at mine (1"). QUESTION 3- So 1" new might drop maybe 2" or more ? " I hope not "

Fire at will ever one and don't be shy. thanks in advance

[CG]

I have two inch blocks on the panel and it causes things to hang below the scrub line just a touch. Before the truck is driven we will do something else.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by CG

I have two inch blocks on the panel and it causes things to hang below the scrub line just a touch. Before the truck is driven we will do something else.

CG my truck has on it now stock 8" u-bolts no low/blocks yet, I bought two u- bolts that are 10" long and will be using stock wheels 15x6 wide, tires not sure yet but might need a taller profile tire to get the wheel more off the ground so it might work better that way or not. what do you think about that?

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by CG

I have two inch blocks on the panel and it causes things to hang below the scrub line just a touch. Before the truck is driven we will do something else.

Not being dumb here but what is a "scrub line" I have heard that before but not knowing what it was.

[CG]

I have 15 inch wheels too. With four inch drop springs, the springs are heavier duty because they are for burb/panel. I wanted 6 inch drop but the only size springs they made for burb/panel were four inch drop at the time.

As far as quality of the CPP stuff I hear both ways so I cant give you an answer. If you care about scrub lines don't use two inch blocks. Just my opinion =)

Mine will be off before the panel hits the road. Ive given this project to my son and I want him and my grand kids to be safe if there is a blowout.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by CG

I have 15 inch wheels too. With four inch drop springs, the springs are heavier duty because they are for burb/panel. I wanted 6 inch drop but the only size springs they made for burb/panel were four inch drop at the time.

As far as quality of the CPP stuff I hear both ways so I cant give you an answer. If you care about scrub lines don't use two inch blocks. Just my opinion =)

Mine will be off before the panel hits the road. Ive given this project to my son and I want him and my grand kids to be safe if there is a blowout.

I might see what you are saying about a scrub line. As the rear end is pushed upward with any size blocks it leaves your metal parts hanging way close to the ground for a SKIDDING AFFECT with any metal parts hanging low enough. Am I getting it?

[n33k0]

With 2" blocks and 15" wheels you run the risk of dragging the trailing arms on pavement if the rear tire blows out or goes flat. I've read that using bigger wheels eliminates the problem, so 2" blocks are only suggested for trucks with wheel diameters larger than 15".

[BluTrukker]

The hollow blocks should be fine, if they are quality made. I made my own out of 2x2 stainless with 1/4 wall thickness. Overkill for sure, but I had a piece available for free. There is a thread on here somewhere about how to build them. FYI, both my rear tires went completely flat over the winter and there was about 1/2" of clearance before anything touched the floor. May be a different story if you are at speed. Down the road I will be replacing them with drop springs, but for now it gave me the right stance cheap.

[CG]

With drop springs, lowering blocks, and shock relocation to make sure everything works correctly you are going to have potential problems with a flat tire on 15 inch rims. It is super close so probably even moving up to a 16 inch rim would eliminate the problem. On a car just losing the air while sitting over time its not going to be noticeable.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by CG

With drop springs, lowering blocks, and shock relocation to make sure everything works correctly you are going to have potential problems with a flat tire on 15 inch rims. It is super close so probably even moving up to a 16 inch rim would eliminate the problem. On a car just losing the air while sitting over time its not going to be noticeable.

I think I am going to NOT put on lowering blocks and go back with my original idea of dropped springs and shocks only (2"). That will keep me out of trouble since I will be using the 15" wheels. thanks to all for the info.

[Mac93]

Here is a kit similar to what I got, has solid blocks. Wont make much difference if they're hollow or solid. Like said before, you can make your own blocks. It's the U bolts that you need to have made up if you know a local machine shop.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-72-Chev...JTAquG&vxp=mtr

[Katrina/10]

After reading this, I was concerned because I have 2 inch drop blocks with 15 inch wheels on my truck. So I put an old 15 inch wheel with no tire on the rear of the truck and lowered it to the floor. The trailing arm did not hit. The U-bolts are the lowest point on the arm, and there was at least 3/4 inch between the floor and the bolt. The axle was at quite an angle with a good tire on the other side, so unless you had two flat tires at the same time, I don't think it would be a problem.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

After reading this, I was concerned because I have 2 inch drop blocks with 15 inch wheels on my truck. So I put an old 15 inch wheel with no tire on the rear of the truck and lowered it to the floor. The trailing arm did not hit. The U-bolts are the lowest point on the arm, and there was at least 3/4 inch between the floor and the bolt. The axle was at quite an angle with a good tire on the other side, so unless you had two flat tires at the same time, I don't think it would be a problem.

I have two sets of 15" wheels that I just had sandblasted, so this weekend I will put two wheels on the truck and lower it and see what if any thing would go wrong if both back tires were to have a blow out. I will give an up date soon.

Thanks so far for all who has put there .02 cents in

[CG]

Maybe if you just use blocks it would be ok. But if you use springs, blocks, and the correct shock relocation kit its not fine.

Thanks for checking yours out.

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by CG

Maybe if you just use blocks it would be ok. But if you use springs, blocks, and the correct shock relocation kit its not fine.

Thanks for checking yours out.

Oh yes, forgot to mention, I have stock springs and shocks. The springs are pretty weak, though.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by CG

Maybe if you just use blocks it would be ok. But if you use springs, blocks, and the correct shock relocation kit its not fine.

Thanks for checking yours out.

I think that the shocks & springs aren't the problem with things hanging down enough to cause a problem, all you do there is lower the bed downward. Its when you install lowering blocks you are actually pushing your axle up away from the Trailing arms and that is where the problem starts. In less you change your wheels to a bigger size like 16 or 17 or 18's your not giving your self enough more room to adjust to what you just did with the lowering blocks.

With all that has gave there .02 cents here, I get it

[Shady Rascal]

- Drop springs have nothing to do with scrub line.

- Measuring scrub line clearance with two bare wheels is pretty extreme. Even the flattest of tires still add some height into the equation. When have you seen a tire so so profoundly flat that the wheel rubs the ground ?

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by Shady Rascal

- Drop springs have nothing to do with scrub line.

- Measuring scrub line clearance with two bare wheels is pretty extreme. Even the flattest of tires still add some height into the equation. When have you seen a tire so so profoundly flat that the wheel rubs the ground ?

Well lets see here, I have had more than my share of blowouts (I am 65) and some has SHREDDED a tire so badly that the rim was the only thing left touching the ground. Any Polyester tires now days don't hold up to what would have been on these trucks back in the days as good as a back then Nylon tire would have.

[ck5566]

Not going to Quote any body here. But here is what my 68 C10 is with stock 15" rims/wheels only.

All 4 pics are showing clearances with a 2" block of wood which would represent the 2" lowering block.
1st pic is the clearance 3/8" from ground to the coil spring retainer bolt. good
2nd & 4th pics show NO clearance (-3/16th") for the front U-bolt. bad
4th pic shows the clearance for the rear U-bolt almost 3/8". good

So with all this said & with the pics showing the problems with 2" lowering blocks I have to agree that it is a BAD idea using 2" lowering blocks only.
I hope my numbering of the pics are right , if not you all can figure it out, I have faith in you all.

[special-K]

I have no opinion on lowering blocks because I have never used them.
I have never used them because I don't like them. I feel there are better ways.
I guess that is an opinion.

[raggedjim]

I've had 2" drop blocks on my 2wd blazer for 13 years, never had a problem. Not saying the potential doesn't exist, but then there's only so much I can worry about.

Good luck, Rg

[CG]

Id have to go look at my chassis, but if I remember correctly the blocks with the shock relocators are what screws it up. Ill be out at the farm today getting some parts for John H. Ill see if I can snag a picture.

BTW, I'm not trying to argue one way or another, just stating where my rig stands (sits?) with this set up.

[66clow]

Just wondering anyone out there have a blow out with the 2 in blocks and what we're the results?

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by 66clow

Just wondering anyone out there have a blow out with the 2 in blocks and what we're the results?

I like your thinking. Show and tell time guys "n" gals. This is what we should have asked in the first place.

[raggedjim]

Well, I now have 17" wheels with tires that have 4" of side wall. The lowest point of the suspension is 4.875" (the bolt head for the spring cup, and it is the lowest due to the 4" drop springs, on a stock truck the ubolt ends would be lower). So the blazer is safe from this now. My jimmy has 15" wheels with 5.5" of side wall. If I had a flat on it (and if I had 2" blocks on it) there would be some suspension drag.

This being said, I have driven for 38 years and had one blow out on tires I knew were borderline (actually, worse than borderline, but I was a poor kid). My toys get maintained much better than any of my old cars ever did.

I think Gary (Katrina10) is right if you had a fully inflated tire on the otherside then the flat side MAY not hit (I think your pictures with the blocks simulate both tires being flat instead of one...)

You have to do what makes you feel safe. Good luck, Rg