63-70 drum to disc-C-10 Drum to Disc

[cparman]

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DRUM TO DISC INPUT

Where do I start?
Decide if you are going to buy an aftermarket kit, of do a transplant from a newer truck.
If using a transplant, make sure that you get it ALL! On some, not all booster/master cyl/ proportioning valves will be the same, there will be two ports to send brake fluid to the front brakes, and one to send fluid to the rear brakes. You do not need to use both fronts. Just plug off one of the fronts, and “T” into the other one sending fluid to the front brakes.
With aftermarket kits the above will be described in the instructions. They will also recommend to run a new ¼” line to the rear brakes instead of the existing 3/16” line. I have done it both ways with positive results.
I always paint the master cylinder. I use a POR 15 product called Factory Manifold Gray. It will make the master cylinder look like new for a long time, instead of rusting and looking bad. I will wipe the master cylinder with thinner, or brake clean, and let dry. Stir the paint, do not shake, and use a foam brush. I will do two coats about 12 hrs apart, and then let dry for at least 12 hrs. Once I have this done, I move to the work at the wheels.

SAFETY IS FOREMOST!!
Jack up your vehicle, and put jack stands under the lower control arms as close as possible to the lower ball joints as possible. Slowly let the vehicle down, until the jack is free.
Remove the wheels
If using a drop spindle, remove the cotter pins from the outer tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints.
Remove the nut from the tie rod end, and with a hammer, and a FIRM blow strike the spindle where the tie rod end attaches. A couple of blows and it should fall out. The same with both upper and lower ball joints. Discard the OE spindle.
Install the new drop spindle. Tighten all three nuts, and install new cotter pins.
Pack grease into the new wheel bearings. Put a bit of extra grease in the new brake rotor, and install the inner wheel bearing, and seal.

Set rotor on new spindle and install outer wheel bearing. Install new washer, and tighten new nut and seat the wheel bearing. Once the washer and nut are installed, tighten the nut, while turning the rotor, until it becomes tight and a bit hard to turn. Back off the nut until the rotor is free, and install the cotter pin, and the new grease cap. REPEAT ON THE OTHER SIDE.
Install the new brake calipers and brake hoses. I like the stainless braided brake hoses for an improved brake pedal feel. I have done several with rubber hoses, and stainless hoses. THEY BOTH WORK JUST FINE!
INSTALL THE BRAKE BOOSTER
Depending on the kit, you might need to drill a couple of holes, but I doubt it. You will need to drill a new hole in the brake pedal about 1" below the existing hole to accept the new lower location of the rod coming from the booster. Once you get the booster in place, concentrate on the brake pedal height. In most aftermarket kits there will be a threaded adjustable rod UNDER THE DASH, the will adjust the height of the pedal off of the floorboard. The adjustment under the dash just raises and lowers where the pedal rests when the brakes are not applied! You will need to find an engine vacuum source to feed engine vacuum to the booster. You need a minimum of 17” of vacuum for the booster to operate properly.

BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER:
Some not all aftermarket kits will come with a couple of plastic nuts, and a plastic line the will attach to them. If you do not get this make your own, or go to the parts store ask for a brake master cylinder bleeder kit. Just a few bucks. Using a screwdriver, slowly push the piston in the rear of the master cylinder in and then let it release, until you do not see any bubbles in the master cylinder while pushing the piston in.
You will probably need to configure your brake lines at this time.
Find the brake line going to the rear brakes, and compare the nut on the line to where that line will connect to the proportioning valve. You should have a new fitting in you kit to use. You will need to cut off the old fitting and install the new fitting, and DOUBLE FLARE the line. Do not be afraid to do this!! I just takes practice. Buy a small piece of line at the parts store and practice a few times. Use the flare that came on the line to compare your work too. Be honest to yourself! There may be two separate lines to the front brakes. If so, you have two options. Use both, or buy a brass T, and join them together. I have done it both ways. Either works. Test fit the master cylinder to the booster to see how your lines will fit up to the proportioning valve. Do this without removing the bleeder lines so you do not make a mess with leaking brake fluid. If all looks good, install the master cylinder and tighten it up. Quickly remove the bleeder lines and install your brake lines. Tighten all lines, rinse with water, and wipe dry.


Go get a drink of water. Open both bleeder screws at the rear wheels, and keep the master cylinder full of fluid while you gravity bleed the brakes. Try and run a pint of fluid thru the system, before closing the bleeders. Do the same for the front wheels, and then call your buddy to help bleed the brakes. I will ask the pumper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold it down while I open the bleeder screw. Continued pumping will sometimes cause the brake fluid to foam and cause a bunch of other problems. Once you think there is no more air in the system. Pump the pedal a few times to push the caliper pistons out, and then see how the pedal feels, and how far off the floor of the truck it is.

What should I do when the brakes work, but the brake pedal is almost on the floor?

In most aftermarket kits there will be a threaded adjustable rod UNDER THE DASH, the will adjust the height of the pedal off of the floorboard. The adjustment under the dash just raises and lowers where the pedal rests when the brakes are not applied! SO, if you want to taylor your new brake system to your shoe size do it here.

What if the brake pedal is where I want it to be INSIDE the truck, but have to push it a long way before the brakes are applied?

Make SURE the rear brakes are adjusted properly, and then check gap between the booster rod, and the master cylinder is too much. Unbolt the master cylinder from the booster WITHOUT removing the brake lines. Roll up a small ball of clay ( steal it from your kids, or grandchildren) and put it on the pin coming out of the brake booster. Reinstall the master cylinder to the booster. Make sure to tighten the two nuts all the way. Remove the master cylinder again, and see if the clay was compressed. If not the rod is too short, and needs to be made longer. Some not all rods are threaded, and will adjust by turning them. The non adjustable ones will need to be have a puddle of weld applied to them, and then ground shorter as needed. Once you have it were you think you need it to be test drive and MAKE SURE the brakes are no applied when coasting at idle with your foot off the brakes. 1/8th inch is a lot of gap!!!!!

Upon the initial road test, drive lowly around down the street, and apply the brakes a bunch. Then take a short (one mile) drive and recheck everything. Look for leaks in the lines, see if the brakes are staying on and not releasing etc. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING! Be safe, and take a few short drives and gain confidence in your hard work. Check to make sure you have brake lights.