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Old 10-25-2003, 07:27 PM   #1
Suicide-D
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Fuel Guage reads past full all the time?

Ok I looked behind the seat and only have one tan wire coming off of the sender. The tan wire that comes out at the top of the fuse block that says fuel guage is cut off about 6" from the fuse block... where does it go?

EDIT: I followed the tan wire from the sending unit and it goes past the floor mounted dimmer switch...there is an electrical taped splice... then it goes out the firewall and what looks like into the back of the fuse block...

how is this supposed to be??

Last edited by Suicide-D; 10-25-2003 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:16 PM   #2
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Wow, that's strange. Do you have underbed tanks that had senders or something? Maybe that's why the wire is going out of the cab? My fuel gauge wire goes from the sending unit through that light brown (tan) wire, to the "fuel gauge" spot on the fuse box. Try hooking the sender to that and see what happens.

Good luck.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:19 PM   #3
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i have the same problem. i think its the sender on mine. the tan wire goes off the sender and under the bondo rocker. it was cut before the rocker and we taped it but nothing happened.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:27 PM   #4
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I once had the same problem. Turned out to be a bad sending unit. Took it apart and looked at it. There are some very fine wires wound around what looked like a small piece of white plastic. A brass tab makes contact with the fine wires. One of the fine wires was broken. Installed a new sending unit and it worked just fine.
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:32 PM   #5
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It could be that your sender is not grounded good enough. This will cause your gauge to work but read from about half when its empty and way past full when its full.

good luck,
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Old 10-25-2003, 08:41 PM   #6
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The sender wire is just not connected to the propper spot on the fuse box. Or you could just bypass the fuse block all together and just run the wire directly from the tan sending unit wire to the plug on the back of the gauges. Give me a call and I'll WALK you through the diagram to make sure you get it right the first time. We wouldn't want another suicide door incident.lol Here is the link to the diagram, http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/instrum2.html
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Old 10-25-2003, 09:51 PM   #7
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ha... no we wouldn't....I'm fixing that now. I'll mess with the sender on sunday
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:30 PM   #8
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Well, I must have a bad float / sender or something. I hooked up the wire and it goes to empty and stays. I went and put gas in it to make sure it just wasn't empty... and same result..stays on empty... How big of a pain is it to pull that unit out of the tank?
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:36 PM   #9
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maybe u r just getting really good fuel economy...nah sounds like maybe a bad ground
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:44 PM   #10
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It's not that hard. That ring on the top is like a pressure slip ring. Use a screw driver to tap it around the opposite of the tabs it is up against now and it will pop up when it gets to the openings. If not, just gently pry it up with a screw driver. Then it's ready to pull out.
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:14 PM   #11
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FYI: When a fuel level gauge always reads "full", the connection is broken somewhere. Perpetual "empty" means a short to ground before the sender.
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:16 PM   #12
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Test the sender before you replace it....pull it out, and hook up a ohm meter to the connection for the unit, and move the float up and down. The resistance should change....i'm thinking 30-90ohms total.
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Old 10-27-2003, 08:13 PM   #13
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the float is full gas.... my multimeter was acting stupid but the float is definitely full. the needle on the meter was jumping all over the place
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Old 10-28-2003, 05:38 AM   #14
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A new brass float will run you $5 from any vendor.

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