Whats the lowest I can drop a 1979 long bed Chevy with still good clearance?

[Chevycruisin88]

Hey guys Im new to the whole thread thing and Im wanting to get some feedback from people that have been there and done it to avoid the headaches, and wasting money on things that wont work right out the gate.
So first off I got my grandpas old 1979 3/4 ton camper special with the 454 and the turbo 400 transmission that Ive had in storage since the transmission blew. The motor only has 90k original miles on it and I got a buddy giving me a turbo 400 with about 50k on it to swap out the old one with. I plan on totally rebuilding this truck, not restore but fully customize to my liking. Its 2wd and I want to drop it but not slam it....

1.So my first question is how low can I drop it and still have decent ground clearance? (Not hitting speed bumps, and dragging on the road if I hit a pothole) I want to put at least 20's on it but probablly no bigger then that because I like some rubber.
2. Also Im going to be installing a pretty decent sized blow through sub box in the back of the bed for those that are familiar with systems and am trying to decide if a snugtop will be my best bet, or the fabricated one that sits flush with the sides of the bed...(not sure what its called and if that is just sheet metal then bondoed or what) but if I go with the one that sits flush can I install hydraulic jacks like a snugtop and still be able to access my bed as well if I went that route?

3. Im still debating if I go with shaved handles or not but Ive heard you get into issues with the poppers giving you problems... but thats also something Id like a little input on?

I'll have tons more questions down the road but didnt want to overwhelm anybody. Im just new to all of this and this whole build will take some time because I'm going to be doing everything myself and short on cash so Ive been doing all the research I can before I start wrenching away on this bad boy. Once I get the truck towed over here to the house to start working on it I will post some pics for you guys as well. Thanks for your time and any input you might have would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Cody

[Chevycruisin88]

Here is a few pics I found of the bed sitting flush like I was talking about. Id like to get this kind of look but Would I be able to do it and still have access to open up my bed? If so how?

Thanks
Cody

[N2TRUX]

Cody the first thing we need to know is do you plan to keep the 3/4 ton suspension? You can lower a C20 but its not the same as a C10. Regarding wheel size it really has no impact on how much sidewall you will have.

I do understand what a blow through system is, but that's an antiquated concept that is not really necessary unless you planning on building a massive competition system. The amount of bass available from contemporary low profile subs and amps will rattle your eyeballs. I have no idea what your asking about the camper top.

The picture you posted shows a truck with whats referred to as a "shaved" tailagate. The recess has been covered with sheet metal welded on. The handles can be relocated inside the bed with a kit.

[Chevycruisin88]

N2Trux I'm going to keep the 3/4 suspension because I'll be moding the motor quite a bit down the road and that 3/4 ton suspension would handle the power alot better then a half ton. If I decided to go with airbags what size would be best for a low ride? I don't want the wheels covered like I've seen on some but I want it low as I can get without slamming it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Chevycruisin88

N2Trux I'm going to keep the 3/4 suspension because I'll be moding the motor quite a bit down the road and that 3/4 ton suspension would handle the power alot better then a half ton. If I decided to go with airbags what size would be best for a low ride? I don't want the wheels covered like I've seen on some but I want it low as I can get without slamming it.

How much power are you planning for this truck?
What type of power plant?
Intended use?

[Tom]

Originally Posted by Chevycruisin88

N2Trux I'm going to keep the 3/4 suspension because I'll be moding the motor quite a bit down the road and that 3/4 ton suspension would handle the power alot better then a half ton.

That doesn't make sence. Either suspension will survive and suspend the truck fine. What do you mean "handle it better"? Unless your talking big traction like slicks and the rear end, in which case that's the only plus and 14bolt aren't the most drag friendly rears going [notice how nobody uses them for racing].
I wouldn't run more then 4" front drop on a stock 1/2ton if you don't want to worry about slowing down for potholes etc, I have no idea for a 3/4 ton.

[Chevycruisin88]

Tom thanks for the feedback. I just meant a 3/4 ton suspension would be stronger then a 1/2 ton, probably didnt make much sense but Im going to replace all the stuff that comes with the 3/4 suspension except for some of the main stuff as my buddy put it with new stuff. Im making do with what I have to alleviate getting a 1/2 ton and going from there. Im not building it to drag race, or to resell. Im just going to be building it how I want it to look without completely rebuilding everything or just going out and buying a 1/2 ton truck. Its my grandpas old truck so it has some sentimental value to it but Id like to put some of my own twist on it as well ya know? I got a buddy Ive been talking to thats built a lot of hot rods, bikes, dropped, bagged, lifted and you name it over the years. He said he'll help show me everything I might need to know and what will work, wont work, and whats actually possible with my budget. I think your right though on the drop size if 4" on a 1/2 ton would be the most then on a 3/4 ton if i dont bag it a 3" in the front and a 5" should probably be sufficient...?

[Chevycruisin88]

Scoti...the trucks been sitting for 2 years in storage so for now Ill just be doing the usual maintenance and repairs to get it up and running once I have the new transmission in it and just do body work and stuff until I am sitting better financially. I think the 454's that come in these run about 330hp stock but once I can afford to drop a good 3-5 k in the motor and the tranny Id like to get it up to the 700hp mark or at least a good 600 at the wheels. Do any of you guys know where I can get shaved tailgate kits for a 79 chevy? Ive been looking and just find spam....

[Chevycruisin88]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Cody the first thing we need to know is do you plan to keep the 3/4 ton suspension? You can lower a C20 but its not the same as a C10. Regarding wheel size it really has no impact on how much sidewall you will have.

I do understand what a blow through system is, but that's an antiquated concept that is not really necessary unless you planning on building a massive competition system. The amount of bass available from contemporary low profile subs and amps will rattle your eyeballs. I have no idea what your asking about the camper top.

The picture you posted shows a truck with whats referred to as a "shaved" tailagate. The recess has been covered with sheet metal welded on. The handles can be relocated inside the bed with a kit.

Bad ass truck you got there in your profile pic by the way N2trux!! Thats pretty damn close to what Im going to be shooting for? Whats size rims do you have? 16"s in the front and 17"s in the rear? and you also have air ride suspension dont you? What did that run you cost wise?

[mongocanfly]

If your shootng for 700hp I hope your budget is more than 3-5000...there's a lot more to it than dumping a bunch of parts in a engine
Your off on that factory 330hp..it was more like 230hp..
I wouldn't waste my time or money on it..put a LS in there and be done with it..

[mongocanfly]

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/73-87specs.html

[mongocanfly]

tailgate is probably a custom job..I've never seen a store bought one like that

[daddyjeep]

The truck in the pictures definitely has a custom built bed cover. I have seen them built with sheet metal and bodyworked. Could something like that be built so it opens? Sure it could. That just requires some fabrication skills.

[Chevycruisin88]

Daddyjeep I'm fairly good with welding and figured It should be possible. I would just have to mount or weld some hydraulic jacks under the cover right? Also thanks you guys both for the feedback

[Chevycruisin88]

N2Trux Im.not necessarily building a system for competition but it'll have at least 2 to 4 15's or 2 15's and 2 12's running anywhere from 5 to 10000 watts with a pretty big ass box so want to make sure I can access it when I need to without to much of a headache. Also the pictures i posted of that truck those are rollpans for the rear bumper right?

[mongocanfly]

There's plenty of 1/2 ton trucks out there putting out major power..you may find the 3/4 ton suspension a little to stiff when you put a bunch of power on it.
That rear almost looks like a rear bumper turned into a roll pan

[Chevycruisin88]

Thanks for the feeback Mongocanfly...Definitely don't doubt that there's some mean ass 1/2 tons but if I don't need to swap out the suspension I'd rather not spend the time or money on it. Also wouldnt the truck be stronger all the way around with the 3/4 suspension & if I put airbags in it wouldnt that eleviate alot of the stiffness?

[Chevycruisin88]

I've decided to go with 17 inch rims too, the 20s just arent going to work for what I'm wanting

[Chevycruisin88]

Those LS's are out of camaros arent they? and what gen would be the best all the way around? price, hp, dependability, etc.etc

[mongocanfly]

They all mount the same and will bolt to a t400 with the right parts..

[mongocanfly]

The differences..http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/090...ngine-history/

[Chevycruisin88]

Awesome thanks for all your help man!!!

[Chevycruisin88]

So I got another question for you guys...my truck is the 2 tone paint job with the chrome molding around the entire truck which most of it was secured with double sided foam tape but on the corners and other areas there is a clip that the molding was held on by. From the research Iv'e did about them there is a nut on the back side of those clips you have to remove to get them out. If theres another way to remove them like maybe taking a drill bit to them to drill out the pins so I dont have to remove the inside of each section to remove these clips Id prefer to do it that way to save me the time. I was hoping maybe someone else that has did body work on one of these trucks ran into the same issue and figured out an alternative to removing the clips without removing the inside panels to get access to the bolts on the back side of each one. Any suggestions or ideas...? Or is getting the bolt the backside of the clips off the only way?

Thanks
Cody