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03-03-2003, 09:35 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New York
Posts: 288
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how is distributor related to charging system???
It's the same sad story for me. I fix one thing and another problem immediately pops up.
Lately, the engine's been missing under load. I replaced the plug wires and checked the plugs. Began to take it out for a ride, and the engine died. Wouldn't start. No juice to plugs. 10-12 volts entering the HEI, nothing coming out. This isn't the first time this has happened. I've replaced the module twice, which seemed to cure it each time, and another time I just wiggled wires at the HEI and got it running. But since it died again - with no juice to plugs - I decided to replace the entire distributor. Did that tonight. Cranked it up. Ran well for a minute, then I saw / heard a spark from near the battery. The fuse link blew, then the engine ran rough. I turned it off. I replaced the fuse link with straight wire. Started engine. Ran great. Then battery begins to boil. Check volts at battery. Pegged at 20 volts or so. I guess the original fuse blew for a reason. Normally, I'd just guess that the regulator went south. But it's a fairly new Napa regulator, and a new alternator, and a new battery. And I had no charging problems before I replaced the distributor. Just that miss under load. It would seem to me that changing the distributor (went from Summit hi-performance to a straight NAPA) shouldn't cause electrical problems, but I can't help but suspect something. Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks. Chris
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RLTW 70C10 72K10 72K10 Cheyenne 72C10 Cheyenne Super |
03-03-2003, 10:02 PM | #2 |
newly minted old timer
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 3,521
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sounds like you are having fun. sound like the voltage regulator took a dump, you hooked up your alternator wrong somehow, or you have a major short. check to be sure your pos battery cable isnt grounding on the exhaust.
then i would make sure my grounds are good. your alternator is probably fired or close to. one more thing, in case you didnt know., the hei need 12 volts to work 11.9 wont do it.
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____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban |
03-03-2003, 10:04 PM | #3 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,402
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the voltage reg took a dump.....
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03-03-2003, 10:13 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Myrtle Creek, Oregon
Posts: 29
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I have completely quit buying electrical parts @ NAPA. As far as starters and alternators I found a local auto electric shop that does good work and when you have your own stuff rebuilt you have a better idea what you have. Worth the small additional cost. This does sound like a regulator problem to me.
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03-04-2003, 12:08 AM | #5 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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I agre on the NAPA electrical stuff...it's all junk. Our shop refuses to by them there.
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03-04-2003, 12:40 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Elko,Nevada
Posts: 22
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try this my man in some cases if you loose your fuseable link or what ever fuse protection you have for main power to cab the power will now feed back through your head light circuit. this is because that system is not supposed to go out due to power failures. I bought a 50 circuit braker and eliminated the old fuseable link by mounting it next to the battery then running a #10 wire (in loom) across the radiator and suppling the cab with "clean" 12 volt power. to run all the systems on your truck you should have 50 amp available. would love to get feed back on this.Thanks Big Red
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